5 pin for a 4 pin

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Only if your ingnition wiring is ready for a 5 pin ECU... tell-tail of that is the dual ballast resistor on the firewall. If you have the single ballast resistor then no it wont work.

You can use the 4 pin in place of the 5 pin but not the other way around (without changing to the dual ballast)

Whenever I have replaced the points to ECU circuit, I always go with the dual ballast circuit so that I dont have to worry about what ECU I throw in it.
 
what makes the 4 pin system better then the 5 pin? just curious? because i have read about the performance ballast resistors and they are always 2 pin ballasts. does the 2 prong ballast resitor set up let more voltage to the ignition system or something?
 
Now I am confused as I run a 5 pin ecu and two pin ballest and my backup is a four pin ecu. One day I put the four pin ecu on and started the car and it ran just fine so what does that mean.
 
A 4 pin ecu will work on a 5 pin system but a 5 pin ecu wont work on a 4 pin system. The 5 pin ecu needs the double ballast resistor to work.
 
but what makes the 4 pin module and 2 prong ballast set up better? the fact that you can use less wires? or does the 2 prong ballasst let more juice to the coil and plugs?
 
pjc360 said:
but what makes the 4 pin module and 2 prong ballast set up better? the fact that you can use less wires? or does the 2 prong ballasst let more juice to the coil and plugs?
Click to expand...
There just seems to be less trouble with the 4 pin system. One less circuit to fail that isn't needed anyway. I've had two trucks that just flat wouldn't work right with the stock 5 pin module but just changing to the 4 pin the truck runs fine. We diagnosed the system untill we were blue in the face but could find the problem. (a no-spark condition would come and go randomly) Seemed every time we put a meter on it, it would start no problem! It wasn't the module because we put it into another vehicle and it works fine. Something in that extra circuit in the vehicle wiring was the culprit but it wouldn't act up long enough to pinpoint the problem.
 
The reason I was asking is because I'm having ignition problems and I have a 5 pin lying around that I was going to throw in to see if that was my problem.I put my timing light on my coil wire to see how it was firing,it would flash real fast like all cylinders are firing and all the sudden it would start to hesitate and and my light would stop and start to flash and the the car would just shut off.I've check ignition switch to ballast and it's constant 12.5 when the key is on.I've checked the other side of the resistor and get 6 volts+/-.I've checked the gap on the reluctor in the distibutor.So the only thing I could think of next was the ECU.Speaking of ecu can I run the chrome one in a stock application?
 
As mentioned above, if you have a 5 pin system, you can use either a 5 pin or 4 pin module. If you have a 4 pin system, you have to use a 4 pin module.
 
I didn't put it in, the 5 pin that is.These are just the problems that I'm having.
 
Well after alot off wire ohming and voltage testing,I traced it all back to the coil.Found out that my coil was bad or going bad. I put a coil in that was lying around and she fired right up and purrs like a kitten once again.I'm glad I kept on a trouble shootin,because I almost spent 50 bucks on an ecu.Thanks to all for there inputs of wisdom.Mark
 
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