Riddler
Project EH-Body
What's wrong with the mini mopar starter? I thought that was the most used one?
Riddler
Riddler
6.1 hemi 727 - Need advice on headers and starter
- Thread starter funkyflynz
- Start date
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funkyflynz
Well-Known Member
TTI state that the "ONLY" starter that will clear their HCA headers is the Powermaster 9523. This is the last email i got from them....
"The 9523 is the only starter that will bolt on your application without any modification.
The Powermaster #9543 is the starter that we had problems with. I believe that it was
discontinued."
Rat Patrol
Well-Known Member
If you can beg or borrow an LA mopar mini starter Id try it for fit.....they are pretty short and not that wide.......I can get some measurements if you like. On Saturday.
Buschi340
Well-Known Member
I'm not really sure how the headders differ but I would try the stock Mopar starter. It's a 70 USD piece....
Has anyone actually tried a Mopar mini starter with the 6.1 TTI HCA headers?
In looking at the photos on NAPA, the mini starter (4N6415) looks the same as the Powermaster 9523 (without the index flange)
Looks to me like it will not work
In looking at the photos on NAPA, the mini starter (4N6415) looks the same as the Powermaster 9523 (without the index flange)
Looks to me like it will not work
Hellcat Cuda
Well-Known Member
The traditional Mopar mini starter doesn't fit unless you were to bang the heck out of one of the TTI tubes. A real nice fit is the starter for an '05 Dodge Ram 2500 with Hemi and manual transmission. If you look at page 3 of my Cuda SRT8 392 build thread, post #68 is the Mopar Performance mini starter. Doesn't fit worth crap. Post #69 shows the truck starter mounted to a truck bell housing I had planned to use before upgrading to the Lakewood scattershield. This fit would be the same as a TF727. Page 4, post 79 shows the truck starter with the scattershield. I eventually had to build a spacer because of the SPEC dual disc flywheel, but this starter would work fine with a normal flywheel or torque converter ring gear. You can get the starter via the "application" I described above or I can dig my starter out of some boxes and get the part number. PM me if you're interested.
BTW, that Powermaster probably gives some clearance because of it's adjustability, not sure how much though. I don't think Bill at RMS is aware there is a factory starter that fits. I only found out through the cooperation of my dealer parts manager who has taken an interest in my build and will order parts for me to "experiment" with...
BTW, that Powermaster probably gives some clearance because of it's adjustability, not sure how much though. I don't think Bill at RMS is aware there is a factory starter that fits. I only found out through the cooperation of my dealer parts manager who has taken an interest in my build and will order parts for me to "experiment" with...
Does this look like the one?
Part Number: NNE 4N6987
Product Line: NAPA New Electrical
IMPORTANT INFO: w/ Manual Transmission
Attributes: Starter Type : Mitsubishi Permanent Magnet Gear Reduction
Features and Benefits: Bushings: 100% New Bushings w/ Extreme Temperature Grease.
Commutators Are 100% New & Precision-Machined & Electronically Tested.
Drive Assemblies: 100% New Springs, Rollers, Covers & Extreme Temperature Grease.
Solenoids Are 100% New.
All Brushes Are 100% New High Quality Brushes.
toplscuda
Well-Known Member
RealWing that looks like the one. I just picked one up for mine last week from Rockauto.com for $138 shipped but that includes a $34 core. I had to cut off a couple protrusions from the block that were not needed. I have the Kiesler auto so I used a spacer to get the depth correct but it works like a charm and clears the Jeep SRT manifolds I am using easily.
Hellcat Cuda
Well-Known Member
Realwing,
That appears to be it. I just posted several pics of the Chrysler unit on my build thread. The Chrysler part number is 56029274AA. Not sure about aftermarket cross reference numbers. I'm happy with it for my application and I think it will work even better for yours.
That appears to be it. I just posted several pics of the Chrysler unit on my build thread. The Chrysler part number is 56029274AA. Not sure about aftermarket cross reference numbers. I'm happy with it for my application and I think it will work even better for yours.
Thanks for the tip. That Mopar p/n crosses to the NAPA 4N6987. Have one on order from my local NAPA store.
CUDA SRT8 - thanks for the tip!!!!
Had to grind the block in 3 places for clearance. Good engagement with the flywheel.
I'm going to contact TTI and get them to change their web site for these headers asap so no one else spends $$$ on a PowerMaster starter that does NOT fit - even if you reclock it!!
Had to grind the block in 3 places for clearance. Good engagement with the flywheel.
I'm going to contact TTI and get them to change their web site for these headers asap so no one else spends $$$ on a PowerMaster starter that does NOT fit - even if you reclock it!!
Forgot to add that you have to drill out the top hole in the starter. It is threaded, but the bolt threads into the bellhousing.
funkyflynz
Well-Known Member
Big thanks to Real wing and Cuda SRT8, i brought the starter you guys used - Chrysler part number is 56029274AA, and with grinding the block like Real wing it clears, woohoo!
Now my next problem is the headers, i couldnt go the TTI route, i had talked to Bill at RMS who helped design the TTI headers for the RMS AlterKation and he told me there was no way i would be able to run RHD with those headers!
So back to the drawing board, i know a few guys use the SRT8 Jeep exhaust for A body swaps as they sit in closer to the block, so i figured after market Jeep headers would do the same and give me enough room to run my RHD steering setup.
I totally lucked upon a mint set of 2nd hand Kooks headers for the Jeep SRT8, and they sit real nice and tight against the block, which is great for RHD steering, BUT on the left side the headers are hitting the 727 trans.
I dont want to dent the headers, so im thinking about grinding away a bit of the trans and starter motor where the green marks are, 1/2 inch should be plenty.
Just wondering if this would be a mistake and cause issues, any thoughts??? i will be able to leave the gusset on the starter.
Now my next problem is the headers, i couldnt go the TTI route, i had talked to Bill at RMS who helped design the TTI headers for the RMS AlterKation and he told me there was no way i would be able to run RHD with those headers!
So back to the drawing board, i know a few guys use the SRT8 Jeep exhaust for A body swaps as they sit in closer to the block, so i figured after market Jeep headers would do the same and give me enough room to run my RHD steering setup.
I totally lucked upon a mint set of 2nd hand Kooks headers for the Jeep SRT8, and they sit real nice and tight against the block, which is great for RHD steering, BUT on the left side the headers are hitting the 727 trans.
I dont want to dent the headers, so im thinking about grinding away a bit of the trans and starter motor where the green marks are, 1/2 inch should be plenty.
Just wondering if this would be a mistake and cause issues, any thoughts??? i will be able to leave the gusset on the starter.
72BBSwinger
Well-Known Member
I would dent the headers and grind a little.
toplscuda
Well-Known Member
I buzzed mine down just slightly to clear the stock SRT manifolds. You really don't have to take off much and there is a lot of meat in that area so you will be fine. The taper on the back side is for the exhaust flange to clear
Hellcat Cuda
Well-Known Member
I have to agree with topless. I don't think there'd be any problem clearancing the starter and trans. Personally, I'd make a nice, clean "arch" there with about 1/2" clearance all around...
I agree. That is what I would do.
Rat Patrol
Well-Known Member
Dont want to sund negative but I checked out your pics of the right side header - I seriously doubt they'll pass between the steering box and block .
You may be able to go under the s/box - but then road clearance will be tight....
It'll be great for everyone if they do work....but the available clearance in an A Body is miniscule.
You may be able to go under the s/box - but then road clearance will be tight....
It'll be great for everyone if they do work....but the available clearance in an A Body is miniscule.
funkyflynz
Well-Known Member
Dont want to sund negative but I checked out your pics of the right side header - I seriously doubt they'll pass between the steering box and block .
You may be able to go under the s/box - but then road clearance will be tight....
It'll be great for everyone if they do work....but the available clearance in an A Body is miniscule.
Im not worried about the steering box, mainly because im not using one ;-) converting to front steer rack and pinion.
funkyflynz
Well-Known Member
Im using the 56029274AA starter.
Hey you havent been talking to Walter Larason at Link about a computer for the 6.1 have you?
Rat Patrol
Well-Known Member
That'll do it!! :thumleft:
If they don't interfere with the inner guard..you're on a winner - because at this point in time even running a rack has meant guys in Oz have had to get the right side pipes fabricated from scratch.
Make sure you let us know what the final wash up is! :glasses7:
Hi I have been talking to Walter about getting it running took the motor in to him. He said he can get it sorted but needs to crank the motor over on the starter to see what the cam and crank sensors do. Thats why I need to get the starter and flywheel sorted. Cheers Eoughan
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