6.1 hemi main bolt replacment query

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Henry1962s

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Great forum and info, nothing like this in OZ.
Am right at start of building a 1962 Valiant S Series with a 6.1 and other mods. Have attached pic.
Got a question on the 6.1 hemi main bolts as read on another thread they are Torque To Yeald. Was about to purchase the ARP stud kit as fitted mildon sump and pick up which is attached by main bolt. I will eventually go forged rotating assembly but someone mentioned will need to line bore mains if fitting studs?
Plan was to just change out each bolt and tension studs to spec, which I have yet to find. Motor is brand new.
Any help much appreciated.
 

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hey henry i like what i see i hope you'll be posting your build here for us to follow. i have a 62 lancer i am starting are you using the factory k frame ? are you making your own mounts or buying whats on the market?
 
Using custom mounts onto strengthend factory K frame with rack and pinion steering also k frame mounted. No room for steering box. Fits nice, plentry of room for custom headers, steering shafts ect. No remote oil filter required, factory a/c and alternator will fit. Why didn't they do this in 62, looks like it was ment to be there.
 
Henry,

When installing the main studs, it is highly recommended to line hone the mains. Even with the factory main bolts, we have found the line hone off as much as 2 thousands of an inchon a brand new 0 mile motor.
 
Using custom mounts onto strengthend factory K frame with rack and pinion steering also k frame mounted. No room for steering box. Fits nice, plentry of room for custom headers, steering shafts ect. No remote oil filter required, factory a/c and alternator will fit. Why didn't they do this in 62, looks like it was ment to be there.

henry i realize your building a right side steer. but aren't you concerned with bumpsteer and ackerman angles. that's been the headache here with rack and pinion with factory k frame

show us some pictures!!!!!!!!!!
 
The kits that I have seen done are excellent. In most cases the bumpsteer is not affected, sometimes improved. Have attached a photo of the one I am running. There is heaps of posts on this forum below refrence their use.

moparmarket.com

Moles67,

I was hoping to get away without stripping the engine down. Would have thought the main cap would not move around if the side bolts were left in whilst fitting a stud at a time? Your thoughts appreciated.
 

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Moles67,

I was hoping to get away without stripping the engine down. Would have thought the main cap would not move around if the side bolts were left in whilst fitting a stud at a time? Your thoughts appreciated.

It's in regards to the clamping force differences between cap screws and studs. Studs will pull differently than main bolts and without a line hone, it may cause premature bearing wear. If you do not line hone, you may get away with doing it the way you mentioned, but that would be a chance I wouldn't take personally.
 
Thanks for the info, all very pertinant. Looks like going forged gear straight up might be the go if motor needs to be stripped for line bore. Safe insurance.

Will get a build thread up soon, car at fabricators getting floor and firewall done.

Cheers
 
Thanks for the info, all very pertinant. Looks like going forged gear straight up might be the go if motor needs to be stripped for line bore. Safe insurance.

Will get a build thread up soon, car at fabricators getting floor and firewall done.

Cheers

remember take and show alot of pictures
 
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