/6 build cost

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Morepower

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How much hp can you get out of a slant 6 and drive it around and have fun? What kind of money do you need to spend to put a hair dryer on it
 
It's all dependent on how much of the work you can do yourself. The cylinder head is the big limiting factor, as it was never redesigned for the larger 198 and 225 engines, so they have a head designed for a 170. Turbocharging though, takes a lot of that problem away, as the head becomes much less of a limiting factor with forced induction. @Charrlie_S can probably help. I tagged him so maybe he'll chime in.
 
There is a lot of low cost things you can do. It used to be easier, as there was more stuff in junk yards, and swap meets at affordable prices. I used to get a lot of bargins from ebay, but not so much now. I built my whole 66 Valiant drag car for $1500 (including the car), and the first weekend out it was going high 13's in the 1/4. Most of my engines are bone stock short blocks, with a cam/kit, milled head, sometimes big valves, free flowing exhaust, more then stock carb (depends on the bargain), good ignition system. Last but not least POWER ADDER.
 
There is a lot of low cost things you can do. It used to be easier, as there was more stuff in junk yards, and swap meets at affordable prices. I used to get a lot of bargins from ebay, but not so much now. I built my whole 66 Valiant drag car for $1500 (including the car), and the first weekend out it was going high 13's in the 1/4. Most of my engines are bone stock short blocks, with a cam/kit, milled head, sometimes big valves, free flowing exhaust, more then stock carb (depends on the bargain), good ignition system. Last but not least POWER ADDER.
Well which one do you like better than nitrous or the turbo I was thinking to Turbo I have a 340/408 to sell so I can buy parts or trade for parts plus force feed bell housings fly wheel complete air conditioner for a 62 lancer under dash
 
Well which one do you like better than nitrous or the turbo I was thinking to Turbo I have a 340/408 to sell so I can buy parts or trade for parts plus force feed bell housings fly wheel complete air conditioner for a 62 lancer under dash
Was that a blow through turbo?
 
Well which one do you like better than nitrous or the turbo I was thinking to Turbo I have a 340/408 to sell so I can buy parts or trade for parts plus force feed bell housings fly wheel complete air conditioner for a 62 lancer under dash
already have four barrel Holley on it four barrel intake need to open exhaust up yet the engine is good and strong
 
This is my opinion, others may disagree.
Initial install would be cheaper and easier for Nitrous, then turbo.
However there is no "throttle effect". It is either full on or full off. Not really good for street driving, plus you need to keep filling the bottle.
My turbo setup is/was "old school". I did it in 1979. It is a draw thru, using a Corvair turbo. There are much better ways to do it, today. It all depends on your budget.
Another option is the Torqstorm supercharger kit. No personal experiance, but have heard good things. Not high boost, which lends itself to use on basically a stock motor. Slant 6 Supercharger Kits from TorqStorm

Pics of my turbo setup in this thread.
170 slant six turbo pics
 
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The torque storm super charger kit will also require a 4 barrel intake and headers. With a blow through carburetor or efi. But with the small pulley you can run low 13s just bolting all that on with no other mods. Add a better gear and sure grip with some decent tires you can get 12s with a stick internally slant 6
 
recent post of a youtube guy doubled the HP of a Chevy straight 6 with the wrong sized turbo and like 6psi? Ebay is full of uber cheap turbos now, and they all don't suck. Used a 'stock' Holley 2bbl carb and no timing mods! Keep it under 9 psi and you dont even have to boost reference the timing although you will want to boost ref the fuel pump (easy, plum a line from the bonnet to the fuel pump weep hole) all you need is: turbo, ducting, blow off valve, Peesh-pipe...sorry, 'J pipe' off manifold or similar hot side to turbo inlet, few feet of 1/8 tubing. Boost referencing the fuel pump ensure that the pumps stock 7 psi will not be overcome by the turbos 8 psi pushing into the fuel bowls blocking the 7psi of pump pressure to fill them. It should increase the pumps psi 1lb per psi of boost keeping the fuel pressure to +7 of the bowl vent pressure. Can't use an older smog Holley with a bowl vented outside the carb flange, plug it or tie it into the bonnet. Too big of a turbo will not spool up in time, you want a smaller turbo like from a 2.2 or a stock 4 cyl car: faster spool and no crazy boost levers for a low revving /6.
 
recent post of a youtube guy doubled the HP of a Chevy straight 6 with the wrong sized turbo and like 6psi? Ebay is full of uber cheap turbos now, and they all don't suck. Used a 'stock' Holley 2bbl carb and no timing mods! Keep it under 9 psi and you dont even have to boost reference the timing although you will want to boost ref the fuel pump (easy, plum a line from the bonnet to the fuel pump weep hole) all you need is: turbo, ducting, blow off valve, Peesh-pipe...sorry, 'J pipe' off manifold or similar hot side to turbo inlet, few feet of 1/8 tubing. Boost referencing the fuel pump ensure that the pumps stock 7 psi will not be overcome by the turbos 8 psi pushing into the fuel bowls blocking the 7psi of pump pressure to fill them. It should increase the pumps psi 1lb per psi of boost keeping the fuel pressure to +7 of the bowl vent pressure. Can't use an older smog Holley with a bowl vented outside the carb flange, plug it or tie it into the bonnet. Too big of a turbo will not spool up in time, you want a smaller turbo like from a 2.2 or a stock 4 cyl car: faster spool and no crazy boost levers for a low revving /6.
Thank you for info had a 2.2 Shelby Daytona turbo should be cheap parts. Think I will sell the striker engine I have and go turbo . Thank you for all the info
 
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