6 cyl to 383 swap.

[Fisher]

So can i leave the 6 cyl K member in the car, and just up grade to a stiffer torsion bar If so what size is recommended. The Motor will be aluminum head intake, waterpump and rad, that should help pull some weight off the front end.

2_ Which oil pan can i use, will have to see what number is on the pan when i pick up the motor.
3_ Is it required to trim the k member to make the pan clear?

4- Tranny mount? any welding needed to be done, or do the mounting holes line up?

5- Will most likely use Schumacher mount adaptor as opposed to the motor plate.

6- can factory column shift still be used.?

 

[65Val]

So can i leave the 6 cyl K member in the car, and just up grade to a stiffer torsion bar If so what size is recommended. The Motor will be aluminum head intake, waterpump and rad, that should help pull some weight off the front end.

2_ Which oil pan can i use, will have to see what number is on the pan when i pick up the motor.
3_ Is it required to trim the k member to make the pan clear?

4- Tranny mount? any welding needed to be done, or do the mounting holes line up?

5- Will most likely use Schumacher mount adaptor as opposed to the motor plate.

6- can factory column shift still be used.?

What's this going into???...I'll assume A-Body, '67-up.... earlier will be all different answers...

I can answer some of these...

1: pan should be 187, or 699, I believe. Shouldn't have to trim the K. with those pans.

2: Schumacker mounts work just fine.

3: tranny mount should bolt right up

4: Column shift depends on which manifolds/headers you go with.

Torsion bars... .92's or so should do it, but if you're racing the car, the slant 6 bars are an advantage for weight transfer.

 

[Fisher]

Thank you for the information . I really appreciate it. This is going into a 71 Duster. The headers will most likely be from TTI, this will not be a race car, but rather a street car / driver.

 

[rumblefish360]

Agreed. I just swung in a B-400 onto a 71 Duster. Schumacher mounts and torque strap. (Bar) the trans bolted right up. (727) the rear was swapped for a 8-3/4. The driveshaft must be shortened. (Not done yet) I'm considering a new shaft. It's just easier and it'll be lighter. Aluminum.

I left the /6 bars in there for now. MoPar has a listing of there bars with suggestions for there intended useage. FYI. Since A body cars did come with big blocks, there are replacent bars a Available as well as thicker bars for improved handling.

I used a inexpensive floor shifter to get around the B.S. of the factory stuff. It cost a out $100. I also did new cables for the throttle and trans kick down. Most worth it IMO.

IMO, you'll want a bigger radiator. Disc brakes up front at a min.

 

[65Val]

Thank you for the information . I really appreciate it. This is going into a 71 Duster. The headers will most likely be from TTI, this will not be a race car, but rather a street car / driver.

Someone else will have to chime in Re: TTi's....I haven't done a swap using them.

 

[Snake]

Your going to want frame connectors and a better rear end.I would love to have a 383 in my Dart.

 

[Fisher]

Well the car is getting an 8-3/4 with 3.55 gears and a street tire, so not sure i need frame connectors? Will do a bigger aluminum rad and proper fan for cooling. I know i will have to have a custom driveshaft made.