Oh we have talked about it a few times. Just as recent as today. She decided she wants just the stock or very mild /6 it would have had in it. No plans to race, fine with show and slow. I asked her to take the nephew's car for a spin to see how turd it is. Said no need, she'll see it in her car when it's done. So I guess I will put a /6 on an engine stand and be asking lots of questions on how to build a 6. First question. What is the cog looking gear under the distributor? I pulled one out yesterday and what looks like a cover plate was missing and a gear looking cog fell out. I have no idea what it is.
Thats what she wants, give it to her, and move on. Slant sux uses a nylon plastic distributor drive gear, the it runs of the camshaft. Distributor shaft has a spiral grove in it to draw oil up and keep the bronse bushing in it lubricated. Over time the shafts can coke up with oil, lock up, and break the gear. Its a built in weak link so the camshaft doesnt get destroyed. Changing a cam on a slanty with engine in the car sucks. This was actually a good idea the way mopar did this. A new gear w roll pin and thrust washer will run you about $10.i bet theres plenty of those engines with small chunks of plastic gear in the oil pans still driving around lol.
Super six it w a 2bbl, put a hot electonic ignition in it, maybe an HEI conversion. maybe cam it a little, do some porting and port matching, put a header on it. And run duals. Maybe add an electric fuel pump for ease of starting after it sits, you can also use a denso mini hi torque starter off any magnum 3.9, 5.2 or 5.9 engine. Small and light, sounds better than the whiney box o rox OEM that came on the six. You can mill the head for compression safely up to .090" just make sure your headbolts dont bottom out before they tighten fully.
I did a mild rebuild on a slant sux in a 69 dodge dart western sport special 23 years ago. I couldent afford a V8 swap back then, internet was either non existant or in its infancy back then. I dont think schumacher was even around for swap mounts. Anyhow, the head was warped to ****. They took .090" off to square it up. I think you can actually go up to .120" but would need to check my direct connection engine speed secrets book on that. After my .090" mill job It popped a new permatorque headgasket soon after i put it back on. I cut 1/8" off the bottom of all the headbolts for gasket #2 and no problem after that.
If your running a slushie, maybe a higher stall converter, and a mild shift kit, and a numerically higher rear end gear at minimum 3.23. To make it a bit less gutless.
Hope this helps you make it a little less of a turd.
Matt
