/6 rocker arm play

[Attemptnumber2]

I pulled the valve cover on the new to me dart to try to quiet the lifters a bit. Set lash at whatever the recommended is. Started it and no change.

There is a large amount of side to side movement for the rockers. Without measuring I would estimate a sixteenth of an inch or so. Probably 3 or 4 of them like that and that was where I could narrow the bad tick down to.

I focused on small adjustments in that area and had no change. I can only narrow it down to the lifter to shaft being the cause. I fully understand a little lifter noise is acceptable but this is not a little.

Any thoughts?

 

[cdnEHbody]

That side to side play is normal. There is shim kits apparently. Do a search and I'm sure you can dig it up.

How noisy is noisy I guess is the question?

 

[Attemptnumber2]

A couple are a lot louder than the rest. I have a gm in line 6, granted it is hydraulic, and it quiets down as it is adjusted. Solids are going to be a little louder but not like these. I will look for that shim kit. I assume it would be a lot cheaper.

 

[rustycowll69]

the noise isn't from end play, it's because the valve stem tip has worn a divot in the rocker arm contact pad. When you are setting the lash you are getting an inaccurate reading. Find someone who still owns a Sioux valve grinder, and there is an attachment to regrind the rocker tips properly.

 

[AJ/FormS]

I have adjusted divoted rocker arms using very narrow feelers that fit into the divots. Don't worry about side play, especially with the divoted arms.
I have also lashed them by ear with the engine idling. Yeah it's a bit tricky.

 

[rustycowll69]

what causes divots includes but is not limited to poor maintenance: like poor lubrication, not maintaining proper valve lash (excessive lash), sludge, insufficient or inoperable crankcase ventilation, etc

 

[Attemptnumber2]

The guy I got this from put Lucas in it to keep the noise down, which it didn't. I think I ran 5w20 this time and this spring going to 10w30. I am not afraid to put a couple bucks in the /6 but I don't see the plus to pouring money and time into it. Either way, it'll run for a long time.

 

[vynn3]

I pulled the valve cover on the new to me dart to try to quiet the lifters a bit. Set lash at whatever the recommended is. Started it and no change.

Try adjusting by ear with the engine running. It takes some practice, but it's a useful "slant skill". There's a big debate on whether to adjust 'hot and running' or cold, but I've had better luck with the 'hot and running' method:

http://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=13035&highlight=rocker+adjustment

 

[KosmicKuda]

the noise isn't from end play, it's because the valve stem tip has worn a divot in the rocker arm contact pad. When you are setting the lash you are getting an inaccurate reading. Find someone who still owns a Sioux valve grinder, and there is an attachment to regrind the rocker tips properly.

Yep. I rebuilt my 97,000 mile 225 and when I went to pick up my rebuilt head from my machine shop, the 78 year old guy looked at my rockers that I brought in and said he could reface them so I left them. They had some wear. I'd have to look up what he charged me but it was per piece.
What the Valiant wants, the Valiant gets.

 

[Attemptnumber2]

I tried hot and running. Epic fail, SBC i can knock out quick while running but the adjustment is made in the center. I could see paying an hr of labor to refinish the tips. A little excessive but pretty much a minimum charge in my opinion.

A cold adjustment makes no sense. Nothing is in working form at that point.

 

[AJ/FormS]

I tried hot and running. Epic fail, SBC i can knock out quick while running but the adjustment is made in the center. I could see paying an hr of labor to refinish the tips. A little excessive but pretty much a minimum charge in my opinion.

A cold adjustment makes no sense. Nothing is in working form at that point.

Or you could do what I dd one time; set them hot until she works just right, then let her cool off. Next morning check it cold, and record the difference.
The problem with the hot method is that the engine is already cooling when you finally get to the valves, and it continues to cool as you perform the service. So by the time you get to the last one, how are you gonna compensate? No, I think the hot method is the one that makes no sense. Try my method and see what I mean.
In my method, at the normalized temperature, the previously hot adjusted lash was all over the place, divots not withstanding. I wrote the cold adjustment on the valve cover and wrote in big letters COLD.