/6 sitting up for several years what to do
- Thread starter 38 Dodge
- Start date
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slantsixdan
=..=
Pop the valve cover off, shoot a little penetrating oil on each valve stem where it enters the head, and give a sharp rap on the valve end of each rocker arm to see that each valve is free and not stuck. If you find stuck ones, they'll bend pushrods when the engine is cranked or started, so keep working at them until they're free.
Drain the oil and put in 5 quarts of 5w30 and a new filter. Remove all six spark plugs and shoot a few squirts of clean 5w30 into each cylinder, then toss in a battery and see if the engine will crank with the starter. If it will, go ahead and crank it with the plugs out for about 45 seconds, stop and let the starter rest for two or three minutes, crank it with the plugs out for another 45 seconds, put the spark plugs (or new ones) in, remove the air cleaner lid and use the red straw on a can of spray carburetor cleaner to fill up the carburetor via the internal vent pipe, give a shot of carb cleaner to the carb throat to get everything wet, have a fire extinguisher handy, and go ahead and try to start it. If no stuck valves it will probably start and run. You will have carburetor issues and old-fuel-in-the-tank-and-filter issues, and you'll be doing several oil and filter changes in rapid succession.
Drain the oil and put in 5 quarts of 5w30 and a new filter. Remove all six spark plugs and shoot a few squirts of clean 5w30 into each cylinder, then toss in a battery and see if the engine will crank with the starter. If it will, go ahead and crank it with the plugs out for about 45 seconds, stop and let the starter rest for two or three minutes, crank it with the plugs out for another 45 seconds, put the spark plugs (or new ones) in, remove the air cleaner lid and use the red straw on a can of spray carburetor cleaner to fill up the carburetor via the internal vent pipe, give a shot of carb cleaner to the carb throat to get everything wet, have a fire extinguisher handy, and go ahead and try to start it. If no stuck valves it will probably start and run. You will have carburetor issues and old-fuel-in-the-tank-and-filter issues, and you'll be doing several oil and filter changes in rapid succession.
Dang Dan!! You are the man :thumleft: Thank you for being here with your help and knowledge sir :thumleft: I believe you covered everything :thumleft:
I tend to fill a small gas can half full and hook it up to the fuel pump to make sure it gets new clean gas also at the first fire up and let the new gas hit the carb and as you said get some fresh fuel with a new filter after draining the tank.
I hope it fires up to 38 Dodge surprise :thumleft: I have seen these / fire up after sitting a long time.
TNT440_Cbody
Well-Known Member
That's awesome and good timing. I just picked up a free and 100% complete (from the pan to the air cleaner, flexplate to fan and alternator, plug wires.... etc!) '71 slant 6 from the guys at Car Craft, since my 6'er is still giving me problems. Anyway, this engine was also in a car that sat for many years so Dan's advice will be used more than once! :thumleft:
update, I pulled the valve cover and it looks pretty rough with gunk. I tryed the tap on the valves and the rocker would not move so I pulled them and have them soaking in the parts cleaner. I also pulled to spark plugs and filled the cyclinders with some marvel mystery oil I will try to get some 5W30 tomorrow I took the radiator out and tried to turn the engine by hand with a wrench but it would not budge so I'm not sure if it is locked up or not Iwill change the oild tomorrow and see what happens.
Thanks Dan you are the \6 man Iwill keep everyone posted on what happens
Thanks Dan you are the \6 man Iwill keep everyone posted on what happens
green1
Well-Known Member
If it is gunked, pull it out. Years ago, I got such a deal on a Pontiac T/A that I bought it, to give to my son. Put cleaner in it; the gunk when down and clogged the oil pump screen, spun bearing. And 10 years later, I do the exact same thing to a Bronco. I am an idiot, learn from my lessons.
Take it apart, clean and check.
Take it apart, clean and check.
Well I think the slant is toast. I drained the oil out of it today and out came a whole lot of anti freeze the oil, I tried to rotate it by hand and its locked up I cannot even budge it.I have a 67 slant sitting in the garage from my Barracuda so the qestion is do I remove this one and replace it with the 67 engine? What to do
hellion_locdogg
Slant Sickness
As long as you know what crank registers you are working with...
cudamark
Well-Known Member
The cranks changed from '67 to '68. The convertor hole in the end went from a small diameter to a large diameter. You'll need a bushing or different convertor to convert depending on which way you're going. Coolant in the oil pan is never a good sign but on a slant 6 it almost always means a rod is thrown through the cylinder wall. Could be a sucked valve that broke the cylinder head but I'd bet on the rod. I'm surprised it didn't come out through the side of the block. Usually it's the #6 rod that decides to leave home. I've seen a couple of slant 6 cars that threw that rod and broke the starter ear right off the auto trans too. Killed two birds with one stone!
So to understand this correctly the cranks changed in 68 so if I have a 67 slant it should bolt up with out any trouble? if not can I use the convertor that came in the Barracuda with the transmission that is in my 62 wagon?
Also can anyone tell me the size diameters that eachoine has so I can measure the / on my stand if it will work or not.
Also can anyone tell me the size diameters that eachoine has so I can measure the / on my stand if it will work or not.
cudamark
Well-Known Member
The '67 and earlier engines will all swap amongst themselves without any modifications except for an automatic crank engine going into a manual application. In that particular swap, you'll have to cut down the pilot bushing or machine the crank hole to accept a stock bushing. The automatic crank has the same hole but it didn't get the final finish job that the manual cranks got so it's a little too small. If you install a '68 and newer engine to a '67 and earlier automatic transmission, you'll need to use the '68 flex plate and get a special bushing to make up the difference between the small convertor button diameter and the larger crank hole or you may end up breaking flex plates. Without the bushing, it's hard to center the convertor and keep it from vibratiing. You can't just swap the convertors because they changed the stator hub the same year. You would have to change most of the front end of the transmission to do it that way. Another way to do it is to have a special convertor built with the features you need on both ends. The bushing is the easiest solution.
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