62 lancer gt production numbers aluminum block.

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chucksrodgarage

chucksrodgarage

old school rodder
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i am finishing up going through a real nice 62 lancer gt aluminum block
i was just wondering if anyone knows the production numbers of the 62 gt. i know it is quite rare, and the aluminum block engine adds to that.
i am planning on listing it for sale in a week or so, and am sure i will get questions on the numbers made.
the car is white, and i know they had two tone available. would like to go with the red two tone, but don't know the correct color of red.
i see a vermillion red .listed, but it looks like it is more orange than red.
any ideas on the red?
 

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CRG, I can't speak for colour combos of Lancers, they're an unknown up here. The mouldings beg for a contrasting colour for the "elbow rest", similar to the front fender spears on a Valiant. Cherry Red is the '62 Plymouth equivalent to Dodge's Vermillion - have a look at that for orangeness.

How can a guy tell if he's looking at an aluminum 225, buried in filthy, greasy engine compartment? Do you have to dig in with a sharp screwdriver and scrape down to the bare metal or are there other visual clues?
 
WhyteRoots said:
CRG, I can't speak for colour combos of Lancers, they're an unknown up here. The mouldings beg for a contrasting colour for the "elbow rest", similar to the front fender spears on a Valiant. Cherry Red is the '62 Plymouth equivalent to Dodge's Vermillion - have a look at that for orangeness.

How can a guy tell if he's looking at an aluminum 225, buried in filthy, greasy engine compartment? Do you have to dig in with a sharp screwdriver and scrape down to the bare metal or are there other visual clues?
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Easy, there are no freeze plugs. Also, there's a cast in plate on the block located on the center of the block halfway between the head and the pan rail. one more way. Look at the head in the area of where the intake and exhaust mate up. Should have "Special" cast into the head.
 
wr,
yes, the vermilion is a little orangy, but i am going with that as it is the factory color. as a matter of fact i just stopped on the way home to get it, and they ran out of one of the colors they need, so it won't be done till tomorrow.
you are right though, the two tone in the elbow rest area is needed to finish this car off. might not add any value to it, but will sure as hell help it sell.
as for the aluminum block, on mine, it is a fresh engine, and the block isn't painted, so it is obvious. as for older motors, i guess you could scrape down past grease or paint, or use a magnet, as alum isn't magnetic. also can be identified bt the head, as the aluminum engine uses a special head that says (special) right aboce the 3-4 intake ports. i have also heard that they used a star on some of them.
tried to upload a pic of the engine, but it didn't seem to take
 

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That slapping sound you just heard was my hand smacking my forehead. Of course, a magnet will give an instant ID. The other cues are good to know, too, in case I'm someday pawing through a bin of mixed engine parts.

Interesting that Chrysler didn't consider freeze plugs to be necessary. I'd have thought that aluminum would be just as susceptible to cracking due to frost pressure as cast iron. I lost a Buick nailhead that way, long time ago.
 
i didn't know about the freeze plugs either, as i just got this aluminum block car a short time ago.
oh yes, aluminum will freeze and crack. maybe chrysler engineers consider the whole block a big freeze plug!!!!
 
Some of the aluminum block engine heads had special on them and some just had a star.They are different from a cast iron block heads and gaskets are different and hard to find.Guzzi Mark
 
max,
yes mine has the "special " on it.
what i would like to find out is the production numbers of the car with the aluminum engine. from what i understand, there were around 46,000 alum block engines produced
 
Contact slantsixdan or post in the slant six section. Dan should know.
 
how do you tell them apart? easy just look at them the blocks are a completely different shape. first link is alum 2nd link is iron Dead giveaway is the fact that you can see the indentations around the cylinders on the aluminum block. I would higly recommend that you use a good quality name brand pre-mix antifreeze with the aluminum block. At the very least if you mix your own coolant with water use only distilled water. Electrolytic corrosion eats those block pretty badly.

http://www.moparmax.com/columns/magnante/images/SIX-04.jpg

http://image.moparmusclemagazine.co..._0602_07z+chrysler_engine+slant_six_block.jpg
 
mcnoople said:
if you mix your own coolant with water use only distilled water. Electrolytic corrosion eats those block pretty badly.
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"gaskets are different and hard to find"

Hmm... what I'm hearing here is that, unless you have serious performance ambitions for your Dartiant, you might want to actually avoid using an aluminum slant six, if you have a choice.

Personally, I wouldn't go out of my way to look for one.
 
WhyteRoots said:
That slapping sound you just heard was my hand smacking my forehead. Of course, a magnet will give an instant ID. The other cues are good to know, too, in case I'm someday pawing through a bin of mixed engine parts.

Interesting that Chrysler didn't consider freeze plugs to be necessary. I'd have thought that aluminum would be just as susceptible to cracking due to frost pressure as cast iron. I lost a Buick nailhead that way, long time ago.
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Aluminum blocks were injected pressure formed. Cast Iron motors are sand cast with poured cast iron. The "freeze plugs" are to knock the sand forms out.

10767 AL Blocks in 1961
36000 AL Blocks in 1962
12,500,00 Slant Sixes from 1960 to 1991.
 
Makes sense. So this manufacturing necessity may have had the secondary benefit of protecting the block from frost but that wasn't worth mimicking on the aluminum version.

Thanks for those aluminum engine production numbers.
 
madmax/6 said:
Some of the aluminum block engine heads had special on them and some just had a star.They are different from a cast iron block heads and gaskets are different and hard to find.Guzzi Mark
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I agree, that head is really hard to find. I have a complete aluminum motor that's fresh and I've pretty much given up finding a head for that motor.
 
i would think there should be a few heads out there, as the failures were in the alum. blocks corroding away. apparently they scrapped the entire motor instead of just the blocks.
 
dart4forte said:
I agree, that head is really hard to find. I have a complete aluminum motor that's fresh and I've pretty much given up finding a head for that motor.
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You know they made all the special head mods to the later heads right? You don't have to have a special unless you are as crazy as me :banghead:

I bought my first aluminum block and the guy asked me if I wanted the head. I told him no, I have stacks of stock heads and don't need another one. At the time didn't know there was a special head!

I did finally get a special head, a star head, and I have one with a set of big numbers cast in "6 H -21". All these heads have these marks in the same place, right above the 3-4 intake ports.
 
Hyper_pak said:
You know they made all the special head mods to the later heads right? You don't have to have a special unless you are as crazy as me :banghead:

I bought my first aluminum block and the guy asked me if I wanted the head. I told him no, I have stacks of stock heads and don't need another one. At the time didn't know there was a special head!

I did finally get a special head, a star head, and I have one with a set of big numbers cast in "6 H -21". All these heads have these marks in the same place, right above the 3-4 intake ports.
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Which heads did they mod. The way it looks in order to use the later head the combution chamber has to be dead nuts centered on the cylinder.
 
Hyper_pak said:
As best I can tell the engines from 62 - 63 on would have the head mods so it could be used on the aluminum block. There is a good artical at Mopar Muscle about the development of the engines:
http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/projectbuild/mopp_0303_chrysler_slant_six/viewall.html
I just checked out your aluminum engine! Clean!
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All there, ready to go back together. Just have to hit it with a ball hone. I was holding our for a "Special" head but it doesn't look like that's going to happenn. The motor in the wagon so seems ok, just uses a little oil. I may just pull that head and freshen it up.
 
should be. the "expert" says so. most would say to mount a head and flip the block over to check the location of the chambers to the bores.
 
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