63 Dart bezels and 3D printing?

[63DropTop]

Hello everyone. I'm relatively new to forum only a couple years but this is my first thread/post. This is a great group of people and I'm glad I got turned onto the site prior to restoration. The knowledge base here is fantastic.So, I am in the process of restoring a 63 Dart convertible and like everyone else that has a 63 Dart, the one single year trim items have been challenging to find/repair/restore/replace. I believe the most difficult item yet has been headlight bezels! I feel like the day I win Powerball I'll also find a set of these new at a nice little old ladies garage sale... Any way out of frustration and mostly desperation I decided to try my hand at 3D printing a set. I would like to illicit feedback from my fellow 63 dart restoration specialist and anyone else on what they think about the concept in general? There are many benefits (cost primarily, paint-able, can still chrome plate, can print in different colors, don't need to make large batches, won't dent from stone or bug,etc...). Anyway I was wondering if anyone else has dabbled in "printing" their own parts and if so, how did they turn out? Thanks in advance.

 

[Blind Squirrel]

Nice. My curiosity about this is. When you print this, what is the code that it is either programmed with or that the machine reads? I have CNC capability for medium sized objects and never thought to find out if the two cross over.

 

[63DropTop]

Nice. My curiosity about this is. When you print this, what is the code that it is either programmed with or that the machine reads? I have CNC capability for medium sized objects and never thought to find out if the two cross over.

So I created a 3D cad file (igs) for the part and export a (STL) file. The 3D printer accepts STL files and creates a "slicer" program for coordinates to printer. My son does the conversation (his printer/free software) so I don't know what final file format is. Does that answer your question?
I know some printers accept G-Code, not sure if his is one of them or not.

 

[Slantsix64]

That's good enough for me !

 

[trapster]

nice, did you print them larger, so you can sand them smooth ?

 

[Cuda416]

Nice. My curiosity about this is. When you print this, what is the code that it is either programmed with or that the machine reads? I have CNC capability for medium sized objects and never thought to find out if the two cross over.

I do both, and the they both, use g-code that is generated by some other tool. V-Carve, Fusion, Bob-cad etc for CNC, or various "slicers" for 3D printing. Slicing takes your 3D model and cuts it into defined layers, usually around 0.2mm, sometimes as low as .05mm. The difference being one os subtractive and the other additive. In the most basic sense, it's the exact opposite.

The biggest problem with FDM style 3D printing are the artifacts from the layering. If you can get your part printed using one of the "resin" printers, you're going to have much better results. Even then, since you are limited to materials, it's almost best to get a resin print, then use it to make a mold for injection molding.

in the end, it's not so much what you can do, but rather what your expectations are. PLA for instance, is REALLY easy to print, but on a hot day, you'll know why in a hurry.

 

[Cuda416]

Hello everyone. I'm relatively new to forum only a couple years but this is my first thread/post. This is a great group of people and I'm glad I got turned onto the site prior to restoration. The knowledge base here is fantastic.So, I am in the process of restoring a 63 Dart convertible and like everyone else that has a 63 Dart, the one single year trim items have been challenging to find/repair/restore/replace. I believe the most difficult item yet has been headlight bezels! I feel like the day I win Powerball I'll also find a set of these new at a nice little old ladies garage sale... Any way out of frustration and mostly desperation I decided to try my hand at 3D printing a set. I would like to illicit feedback from my fellow 63 dart restoration specialist and anyone else on what they think about the concept in general? There are many benefits (cost primarily, paint-able, can still chrome plate, can print in different colors, don't need to make large batches, won't dent from stone or bug,etc...). Anyway I was wondering if anyone else has dabbled in "printing" their own parts and if so, how did they turn out? Thanks in advance.

View attachment 1715375328

View attachment 1715375329

Out of curiosity, did you use tinkercad for the model?

 

[63DropTop]

nice, did you print them larger, so you can sand them smooth ?

The car isn't currently at my house so I haven't had a chance to see how good/bad the last generation print fits up on real fender. I'll be testing that this weekend and will post pictures of results. I need to add screw holes also but want to get basics down first.

 

[63DropTop]

Out of curiosity, did you use tinkercad for the model?

Nope, used friend that's lot more savvy than me to draw up first in generation in solid works, then I've been modifying design based on printer output and actual fit up.

 

[Cuda416]

Nope, used friend that's lot more savvy than me to draw up first in generation in solid works, then I've been modifying design based on printer output and actual fit up.

Oh OK. I ask because tinkercad leaves those facets as well. Ask you friend if he can use arcs instead of segments to make the round parts. If not, maybe use more segments. That will make it much smoother and actually speed print time.

 

[63DropTop]

I do both, and the they both, use g-code that is generated by some other tool. V-Carve, Fusion, Bob-cad etc for CNC, or various "slicers" for 3D printing. Slicing takes your 3D model and cuts it into defined layers, usually around 0.2mm, sometimes as low as .05mm. The difference being one os subtractive and the other additive. In the most basic sense, it's the exact opposite.

The biggest problem with FDM style 3D printing are the artifacts from the layering. If you can get your part printed using one of the "resin" printers, you're going to have much better results. Even then, since you are limited to materials, it's almost best to get a resin print, then use it to make a mold for injection molding.

in the end, it's not so much what you can do, but rather what your expectations are. PLA for instance, is REALLY easy to print, but on a hot day, you'll know why in a hurry.

I started with ABS but gave up after several iterations and warped parts. I'm currently working with PETG and having good success although finish isn't what I'd prefer (takes some sanding). Resin would be great with injection molding supreme, but this is a poor man's attempt at an initial quantity of two!

 

[63DropTop]

Oh OK. I ask because tinkercad leaves those facets as well. Ask you friend if he can use arcs instead of segments to make the round parts. If not, maybe use more segments. That will make it much smoother and actually speed print time.

Thanks for suggestions. I think issue lies with older slicer software, 3D cad is perfect. I have also considered making reverse "mold" and use that to hammer out dents of real bezels.

 

[Cuda416]

Thanks for suggestions. I think issue lies with older slicer software, 3D cad is perfect. I have also considered making reverse "mold" and use that to hammer out dents of real bezels.

Eh, not to ague but you might be surprised. Lot's of CAD/modeling software "shows" you something different because they aren't designed to actually model for printing etc. You can see it in any STL viewer. Going from an IGS sold to an STL (shell) can be problematic as well. Been there done that You might try loading the IGS into blender and exporting it that way.

 

[63DropTop]

Eh, not to ague but you might be surprised. Lot's of CAD/modeling software "shows" you something different because they aren't designed to actually model for printing etc. You can see it in any STL viewer. Going from an IGS sold to an STL (shell) can be problematic as well. Been there done that You might try loading the IGS into blender and exporting it that way.

Thanks, I'll look into the conversion process a little closer.

 

[Dana67Dart]

My experience is the material needs to be temp and humidity resistant. I had a part in the trunk of my car and one day in the sun and it was warped all out of shape

Wish I could give you some materials help, but I'm in the dark on that

I do know there are some materials that have a metal component to them

 

[trapster]

My experience is the material needs to be temp and humidity resistant. I had a part in the trunk of my car and one day in the sun and it was warped all out of shape

Wish I could give you some materials help, but I'm in the dark on that

I do know there are some materials that have a metal component to them

Maybe you just need to fill them with epoxy or fiberglass resin. I would coat the inside before doing this with aluminum foil or something. just a thought.

 

[dartfreak75]

This makes me curious about other potential possibilities. How durable is the the printed product? Can it be painted plated etc? How does it hold up to heat ?

 

[63DropTop]

Maybe you just need to fill them with epoxy or fiberglass resin. I would coat the inside before doing this with aluminum foil or something. just a thought.

I am hoping the vacuum metal chrome plating will protect against the elements.
(For sure the UV exposure) It will be a fair weather vehicle so exposure will be minimised but the long term durability is definitely a concern. Worse case scenario, if I can make these cheap enough, I'll change them out every few years.

 

[63DropTop]

This makes me curious about other potential possibilities. How durable is the the printed product? Can it be painted plated etc? How does it hold up to heat ?

Yes, can be both plated or painted. I live in Michigan so I'm more concerned with cold cracking vs heat warping but time will tell what durability is for both all four seasons.

 

[63DropTop]

Maybe you just need to fill them with epoxy or fiberglass resin. I would coat the inside before doing this with aluminum foil or something. just a thought.

I've considered fiberglass resin for smoother surface and increased durability but haven't tried yet to see if it would eat the plastic. The deflection point of this plastic is 157 farenheit, so might be close for southern states? Again I hope the chrome plating would increase temp range of final product.

 

[pishta]

I made "S" badges and 2 other versions: "T" for turbo and "6". FInish was sub par, very granular and hard to sand. Not sure what media was used as it was a ' loaned printer at a library' project . Tell us how that vacuum deposition chrome fares out in the wild on plastic. Those look nice enough! .

 

[63DropTop]

This makes me curious about other potential possibilities. How durable is the the printed product? Can it be painted plated etc? How does it hold up to heat ?

Once I master these dang bezels it's onto tail lights, dash components, trim clips, and everything else dang near extinct for this car! New materials are being made all the time so hopefully by the time I get the CAD and sizing/a perfected on all these there will be some new plastic (better than abs) available and easier to use.

 

[63DropTop]

I started with ABS but gave up after several iterations and warped parts. I'm currently working with PETG and having good success although finish isn't what I'd prefer (takes some sanding). Resin would be great with injection molding supreme, but this is a poor man's attempt at an initial quantity of two!

ABS could be easily used for smaller more uniform parts, just the doughnut shaped bezel requires more stiffening to keep from warping. I would definitely lean towards ABS for most parts as preference.

 

[63DropTop]

I made "S" badges and 2 other versions: "T" for turbo and "6". FInish was sub par, very granular and hard to sand. Not sure what media was used as it was a ' loaned printer at a library' project . Tell us how that vacuum deposition chrome fares out in the wild on plastic. Those look nice enough! .

Will do, this is only the beginning!

 

[66Dvert]

Will do, this is only the beginning!

I'm making a few interior parts for eh 63-66 convertibles, only 1(kick panels with speakers) part right now is considered by me to be a production piece but the other s are getting closer
kick panels

top rear convertible panel filler just need to adjust cutting out positions

ahh the glove box from hell, webbing issues still
ongoing so it's a no go for now. but I'm getting closer.

side panels has the basic form but still working out an easy way to cut it out.