63 Dodge Dart, now let me see;)

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Gee Rusty :poke: , the tire store let me borrow theirs, I didn't have to buy one, new custom wheels are on order :thumbsup:
I do tend to come up with "fiascos" , it's not intentional, I would rather not have to experience fiascos:lol:
This would have solved the whole fiasco. My GAWD some of yall know how to complicate something that's really SO simple.

Wheel Fitment Tool
 
Gee Rusty :poke: , the tire store let me borrow theirs, I didn't have to buy one, new custom wheels are on order :thumbsup:
I do tend to come up with "fiascos" , it's not intentional, I would rather not have to experience fiascos:lol:
Well good. Glad you were able to gain access to one. It's not your fiasco. All anyone had to do instead of giving poor (some very poor) advice is advise you to use that tool. Glad you got it sorted.
 
Thank you, don't be a stranger, I'm so close to having my Dart on the road, just dumb little things eating at it.

Well good. Glad you were able to gain access to one. It's not your fiasco. All anyone had to do instead of giving poor (some very poor) advice is advise you to use that tool. Glad you got it sorted.
 
Ok, wired it open, figuring this direction ccw is open. Not the prettiest job, but is an experiment. Took 14minutes to get up to 200 Took a while to get there. 400 degrees on the first exhaust manifold coming off the head, of course that varies.
got to go, gary wants a hamburger lol

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Ah, the Mopar heat riser! My first issue with one was the day I bought a 70 Challenger, just a 318 Vert back ion late 80s. Ran good, of course it was for sale, and back then a guy would be there to look 24 hours after I got it home. So I fire it up, exhaust was a little loud, it had been sitting in a cow pasture a while. He hears this tic tic tic and gets in hos car and is gone, just like that. Bout then, I figure it is the darn heat riser flapping. Ever since, I extract the darn thing, and weld the holes shut!

AC water pumps are designed to flow more water, IF I am not confused on my old age. Pullies are different size, radiator is larger (right?).

I might have missed the info, but do you have a HF heat gun ($15 on sale day)? to check temp all over the radiator? and other places? like is every cylinder the same temp pretty much? etc etc
 
I know I'm gonna get it, but plumkrazee70 brought this to my attention regarding high volume water pumps. This site is about the only one advertising them. If the fan helps, would this be a good thing? We know my engine gets higher temps at idle, but fine at speeds. ok
got to make dindin, that's supper you know;)

1963-1987 Slant 6 hi flow water pump for the 170 198 225 cid blocks they make a high flow water pump for the slant? If so, get one along with a good high flow thermostat (degree of your choice) that should fix it right up.
My thought is, as you're driving the temperatures are okay. Then when you slow down, the water pump isn't spinning as fast. Temps increase.

Also check your pulley ratios. You want the wp smaller than the crank.
 
out of order with a reply but had an idea while eating brain food-pretzels!
concerning the accuracy of your wheel balancer, try a known good wheel/tire combo and see where the bubble ends up.
 
I know I'm gonna get it, but plumkrazee70 brought this to my attention regarding high volume water pumps. This site is about the only one advertising them. If the fan helps, would this be a good thing? We know my engine gets higher temps at idle, but fine at speeds. ok
got to make dindin, that's supper you know;)

1963-1987 Slant 6 hi flow water pump for the 170 198 225 cid blocks they make a high flow water pump for the slant? If so, get one along with a good high flow thermostat (degree of your choice) that should fix it right up.
I have not run AC in a classic in many decades, maybe once!
But cooling as a combination of ALL the many things that can affect such. Like said, even pulley size.
I have owned over the decades maybe 12-15 slant drivers but never one of those with working AC, and only one slant that was a fresh rebuild. Maybe a couple with new OEM size radiators, usually just a flushed old one, I have used a solution of muratic acid top flush out an old engine that was suspect. (that stuff is strong and nasty! Scares me!) I never had a slant run anywhere near hot, BUT I have always lived in the sticks and never had to sit at a traffic light with AC running!

I am sure even timing has already been mentioned as too much advance can get the temp up some, at least on a v 8. I still like to use a heat gun to try to check temp against the gauge, plus I use it when shooting some touch up paint out side in the heat!

Cut a hole in the hood and graf on a scoop! That will let out some heat!!
OK so I am no help!
 
I guess I shouldn't complain about the overheating at idle thing. At least I can drive it :thumbsup:

I have not run AC in a classic in many decades, maybe once!
But cooling as a combination of ALL the many things that can affect such. Like said, even pulley size.
I have owned over the decades maybe 12-15 slant drivers but never one of those with working AC, and only one slant that was a fresh rebuild. Maybe a couple with new OEM size radiators, usually just a flushed old one, I have used a solution of muratic acid top flush out an old engine that was suspect. (that stuff is strong and nasty! Scares me!) I never had a slant run anywhere near hot, BUT I have always lived in the sticks and never had to sit at a traffic light with AC running!

I am sure even timing has already been mentioned as too much advance can get the temp up some, at least on a v 8. I still like to use a heat gun to try to check temp against the gauge, plus I use it when shooting some touch up paint out side in the heat!

Cut a hole in the hood and graf on a scoop! That will let out some heat!!
OK so I am no help!
 
So, here's my plan, whether right or wrong~ I ordered the high volume water pump, the new flex can will be here today however I'll wait until the water pump gets here, work on my new and improved fan shroud, so pulled the radiator which is pretty easy to remove, mm, go ahead and pull the water pump and just see what the impeller looks like. After today the weekend will be Thanks Giving stuff, family, etc, so garage stuff is on hold:(

other stuff: I was complaining about my doors closing, the amount of slamming to close, having new expensive OEM seals. I ordered this from Amazon and now my doors close much much easier!

other other stuff: my new side mirrors, I thought I could get away with out side mirrors~ I NEED SIDE MIRRORS!! :lol:

Going to garage to work on a fan shroud:thumbsup:

water pump.jpeg
 
I worked on this shroud , still have tweeks to do to it, I think it will be better than my previous one. Ran out of time:(

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I worked on this shroud , still have tweeks to do to it, I think it will be better than my previous one. Ran out of time:(

View attachment 1716480622

View attachment 1716480623

Please no Cookie Sheets, that's where the Electric Fan People Fail.

Look at a Ma Mopar Shroud that's the way to build it, if you are going to build it.

Screenshot_20251120-170500_Gallery.jpg


Now the trouble is the the Slant 6 engine is too long to work with these nice flowing shrouds. And there is no extra room between the end of the solid mount fan and the radiator.

No room for the airflow to make a natural turn to go out by means of the fan. Instead those Flat shrouds are running defense against any successful airflow through the radiator.

That's why it's best in your situation to run your new solid mount flex fan with no shroud and let the flex fan blades do their magic.


3 Stars for good try though.

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Wow, that's a shroud:thumbsup: ! I know you said don't run a shroud, it's just this would be the time to do it as it is a pain to install and to work around, I'll make the call next week~ it's going to be several days before parts get here and it's Thanksgiving~ so everything is on hold:(
 

One more question for this evening~ how close do I want the fan to the radiator? the heavy metal fan was probably a 1" , is closer better?
 
One more question for this evening~ how close do I want the fan to the radiator? the heavy metal fan was probably a 1" , is closer better?

3/4" is good. Got to have some room for things jumping around, and not chewing the core.

Bolt the fan in with what you got, then slide the radiator down in and then go for a test drive with your latest new fan.


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