63 to 66 A-body floor pans

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Valiant63

Early A-body Valiants
Joined
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eastern, PA and central Florida
For my 65 Valiant, what are the best fitting and most factory looking floor pans out there? I have used one brand given to me by a friend, but it didn't fit well and had to be modified toward the outside to make it fit. What is the best one for the price, too? Does anyone have floor pans that they didn't use that they may want to sell?
 
For my 65 Valiant, what are the best fitting and most factory looking floor pans out there? I have used one brand given to me by a friend, but it didn't fit well and had to be modified toward the outside to make it fit. What is the best one for the price, too? Does anyone have floor pans that they didn't use that they may want to sell?

Call Desert Valley Auto Parts and buy the size of the floor that you need. Otherwise I think Auto Body Specialities are the only one around!
 
in general, the repop metal will always need some trimming/ fitting. if not ya got lucky. besides always better to trim some than it to be short!???? buying used dessert stuff and paying shipping, well that won't be cheap.
Sherman has never been known for the highest grade patch paneks unless they have changed.
lots of work and won't be "correct", get some 18 ga sheetmetal, make your own!?? go to whol;esale steel "store". the one I use custom cuts (sghear), and bends, always have right size scrap for pretty cheap. works fior me but then i'm not a purist or in contention for the local car show trophy! just me....
 
Sometimes it's worth it to go to desert valley, you're pretty much guaranteed to not have rust. But its not worth shipping from arizona to pennsylvania.
 
So far, no good. AMD doesn't make early a-body floor pans, and Desert Valley is too expensive. Making my own may be an option, but I can never get the grooves in it like the factory had. Looking for more options.
 
no doubt, a stamped pan will be nicer than what we amateurs usually produce with hand tools, just what ya want to spend and what results you demand????
 

Not sure your price threshold. I am cheap, so bought a passenger pan for $55 thru rockauto. It didn't have extend much onto the "plateau" under the seat (like linked one does), just the upward turn I recall. It had close to the correct bends. I had to massage it a bit w/ a rubber mallet around the tranny tunnel to make the curves look like my original driver's side. Cutting the old metal and new to fit was very tricky and took many passes. If I did again, I would lap them rather than butt-weld. It took too long to get a tight fit and then I got many burn-thrus when welding (even w/ copper spoon behind).
 
just purchased a Left front floor pan from ABS they state it fits 63-66 Valiant. Pictures on web site look like all right bends. Have not received it yet. Hope it will not be too hard to get it to fit.
 
I made these out of some steel from an old filing cabinet. I made patterns of the old panels out of large water color paper I bought from Hobby Lobby, and marked the stiffening rib size and location right to the paper, then transferred the whole thing onto the sheet metal and ran the beads with a hand crank bead roller. The passenger side is several pieces welded together to make one piece. They fit well and I'm happy with them. If I can do it, you can do it!
 

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If u can find a parts car with solid replacements, those would be best. I found one that I will be working this spring.

One of my fav Tech threads on floors here :-》http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=196103

Shermans still stamps them. Try calling them. I've bought quarter panels and other items from them before. Good to deal with.
https://www.shermanparts.com/ecat/base/dropdowns.php?make=Plymouth&model=Valiant&year=1963
https://www.shermanparts.com/ecat/base/dropdowns.php?make=Dodge&model=Dart&year=1965
 
I made these out of some steel from an old filing cabinet. I made patterns of the old panels out of large water color paper I bought from Hobby Lobby, and marked the stiffening rib size and location right to the paper, then transferred the whole thing onto the sheet metal and ran the beads with a hand crank bead roller. The passenger side is several pieces welded together to make one piece. They fit well and I'm happy with them. If I can do it, you can do it!

looks great!!!!! self satisfaction, and NO there aren't any bone cars in Iowa with good pans!!!!
its like this , if an iwegian and a Misosurian,can do it, everyone can!!????
yes that's a joke. a true joke....
 
looks great!!!!! self satisfaction, and NO there aren't any bone cars in Iowa with good pans!!!!
its like this , if an iwegian and a Misosurian,can do it, everyone can!!????
yes that's a joke. a true joke....

Right, there are NO early A's with good floor pans in Iowa bone yards!! If you can even find them in Iowa bone yards. I didn't want to spend $100 per side on floors either. I usually have more time than money, that's a big reason why I do my own fab work. That, and it's FUN!
 
4spdcuda66
Where did you get the bead roller from and how much did it cost? Did you use a flange roller too for the edges? Nice work! I'd like to do work as good as yours.
 
4spdcuda66
Where did you get the bead roller from and how much did it cost? Did you use a flange roller too for the edges? Nice work! I'd like to do work as good as yours.

I bought the roller several years ago from Woodward Fab. Probably came from china, but has three sets of bead dyes and three sets of flange dyes. I didn't flange the edges, but they turned out pretty good. At the time, I think the whole set was about 100 bucks. Thanks for the compliments.
 
I bought my bead roller used from Ebay for about 80 bucks shipped. It may be worth watching for a used one like I did.
 
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