'63 Valiant Newbie

-
S

shortmort37

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 13, 2022
Messages
104
Reaction score
23
Location
Upper Darby, PA
Greetings,

I finally found the Gen II wagon I've been looking for. I took delivery today!

334942172_156969950535020_5071822709412531963_n.jpg


Along with it, I received boxes of parts - some of which I don't recognize. Can someone tell me what these are (were) for?

IMG_6671.JPG


IMG_6672.JPG


Also - if a 170 cid /6 was still an option in 1963, how do I tell if I have that, or a 225? And cast block or aluminum? Can you tell from the data plate?

IMG_6687.JPG


And, where was this data plate affixed? (The VIN plate is still on the driver's A pillar.) Is there a key to decoding?

Thanks in advance for all the Newbie questions! Excited to finally own an A Body.

Dan
 
That's a nice wagon. I have a 64 but the body isn't in as good as shape as yours. I love that generation of the A body wagons. Lots of fun to drive even with the Slant 6. I agree with @66340SEDAN - post more pics.
 
I sold my 63 to a guy near Pittsburgh Pa. Another one I should have kept.
Mine was a 170. I don't know numbers but if you look at the waterpump by pass hose a 170 is very short, maybe 2'' or less.
The 225 is about 3''. Also the block has numbers stamped on a flat pad where the alternator block bracket bolts.
Tough to find and my need allot of cleaning to see it.
 
If it was permissible for me to be jealous, I would be. In 1975 I had a 10 yearold A100. Man if only I still had her!
I put a 340 in mine, then drove wheelnuts off it for two years, until the transmission said enough. Then I sold that gem, and got married. I was such a dope. I mean for not fixing that transmission, lol.
I replaced that beauty first by a 69 Barracuda, then a 74 DartSport.
My wish for you is that you get at least twice as much pleasure from yours.
But if you get bogged down, call me........ cuz I still have that 340...
 
You have some fancy aftermarket valve cover bolts. A magnet will tell you whether it's an aluminum block or cast iron. Post the block number and/or stamped letters/numbers that should be on the upper block surface on the passenger side front. You need to look down in the crack between the alternator bracket and the valve cover to see it. A stamped '63 block I.D. number should start with T......then either a 17 or 22 for 170 or 225.
 
An easier way to tell which engine you have is to try to try and place your hand between the front most exhaust manifold runner and the block directly behind the waterpump. Pass you whole hand thru easily, a 225. Can barely pass a standard diameter pencil thru, a 170. If you have a 170 it is not aluminum. If you have a 225 stand by the driver front wheel looking at the block and exhaust manifold. Do you see freeze/expansion plugs? If yes you have an iron block. If no you have aluminum. Confirm with magnet as mentioned in earlier post. Congrats on purchase and welcome to forum.
 
cudamark said:
You have some fancy aftermarket valve cover bolts. A magnet will tell you whether it's an aluminum block or cast iron. Post the block number and/or stamped letters/numbers that should be on the upper block surface on the passenger side front. You need to look down in the crack between the alternator bracket and the valve cover to see it. A stamped '63 block I.D. number should start with T......then either a 17 or 22 for 170 or 225.
Click to expand...

Well, whadayknow - there are the numbers, plain as day! It's a 225. (Yes, the engine was rebuilt - two years ago. More about that in a later post.)

IMG_6702.JPG



valiantpatrol said:
An easier way to tell which engine you have is to try to try and place your hand between the front most exhaust manifold runner and the block directly behind the waterpump. Pass you whole hand thru easily, a 225. Can barely pass a standard diameter pencil thru, a 170. If you have a 170 it is not aluminum. If you have a 225 stand by the driver front wheel looking at the block and exhaust manifold. Do you see freeze/expansion plugs? If yes you have an iron block. If no you have aluminum. Confirm with magnet as mentioned in earlier post. Congrats on purchase and welcome to forum.
Click to expand...

Freeze plugs - I got 'em! It's an iron block, and a magnet confirms.

IMG_6703.JPG


For those who asked for more pix, will do - I've a couple other chores to attend to, and then I'll be back. Thanks for the good advice!
 
Score! Great wagon. Yes, it's an iron 225—a 1963 engine, by the stampings, so likely the car's original motor. Those chrome V-wingnut things are an aftermarket accessory to distort the valve cover so it no longer seals well.

Tune-up parts and technique suggestions are in this post. Carburetor operation and repair manuals and links to training movies and carb repair/modification threads are posted here for free download. Might want to do the fuel line mod and the HEI upgrade . More generally, take a look at this thread.
 
slantsixdan said:
Score! Great wagon. Yes, it's an iron 225—a 1963 engine, by the stampings, so likely the car's original motor. Those chrome V-wingnut things are an aftermarket accessory to distort the valve cover so it no longer seals well.

Tune-up parts and technique suggestions are in this post. Carburetor operation and repair manuals and links to training movies and carb repair/modification threads are posted here for free download. Might want to do the fuel line mod and the HEI upgrade. More generally, take a look at this thread.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the tips, Dan! I've got some reading to do, obvs.

And for those who asked for more pix - hereyago!



330550205_598942698402912_3128957267739933864_n.jpg


334940413_747449376992421_7988904826273581129_n.jpg


334974984_941306807004228_5077238917881711684_n.jpg


334975201_776431097161619_2197474944846848532_n.jpg


334983512_180457631363893_6023744570756183865_n.jpg
 
Last edited:
shortmort37 said:
(Yes, the engine was rebuilt - two years ago. More about that in a later post.)
Click to expand...

The hauler warned me that the car was dripping oil - when the trailer arrived, I could see it dripping every 7-8 seconds from the bell housing (the car, still on the trailer, had its nose in the air). I put oil in it, seeing that nothing registered on the dipstick. I'm assuming that either the pan is loose, or (*gulp*) it's got a defective or improperly installed rear main seal.

I've got a trusted mechanic with a lift. If push comes to shove, and it needs a new seal - can it be replaced without pulling the engine, or the trans?

adTHANKSvance,
Dan
 
slantsixdan said:
I see whatchya did there!
Click to expand...

Thanks for noticing! :)

Yoy may also have noticed, Dan, that I am soliciting opinions about the replacement of the 225 rear main seal, should it be indicated. It won't be done by this shade tree mechanic, but by a shop. What's your opinion?
 
I'd probably call dropping the trans (and leaving the engine installed) the best balance of amount of work, ease of work, and likelihood of the job going well on the first try. Beyond that: just follow good practice—use a good brand of replacement parts, make sure everything is clean-clean-clean, make sure the new seal is installed right way round (backwards = guaranteed leak), put an eye on the crankshaft to make sure it's not grooved/worn at the seal surface, offset the halves of the seal relative to the "halves" of the holder (block and lower cap), put a dab of good quality RTV on the cut ends of the halves, etc. But if you choose a good shop, they'll know to do at least most of this on their own.
 
shortmort37 said:
Greetings,

I finally found the Gen II wagon I've been looking for. I took delivery today!

View attachment 1716062879

Along with it, I received boxes of parts - some of which I don't recognize. Can someone tell me what these are (were) for?

View attachment 1716062886

View attachment 1716062889

Also - if a 170 cid /6 was still an option in 1963, how do I tell if I have that, or a 225? And cast block or aluminum? Can you tell from the data plate?

View attachment 1716062890

And, where was this data plate affixed? (The VIN plate is still on the driver's A pillar.) Is there a key to decoding?

Thanks in advance for all the Newbie questions! Excited to finally own an A Body.

Dan
Click to expand...
What is the 4th digit in the VIN number (will tell me which plant assembled the car) as all the plants did not have standardized option codes in 63?
 
bcschief said:
What is the 4th digit in the VIN number (will tell me which plant assembled the car) as all the plants did not have standardized option codes in 63?
Click to expand...
Here’s the VIN plate - I’m not sure what is the 4th digit of the VIN, since there’s a 17 stamped from the front, where the remaining digits are stamped from the rear. -Dan

B354B8AA-A99B-46D2-B6DB-1D3FF4EDFCF2.jpeg
 
My service manual arrived today! I see that the 17 designates a V-200 Station Wagon. The 3 must be the year, since all 63 VINs have it, but the manual doesn’t provide the digit for the plant, that I can see.
 
The forth digit, 5, indicates the Los Angeles assembly plant according to information I have.
 
I agree built at the LA plant, the 17 1= valiant 6 7= Valiant 200 Wagon (note the edition of Galen Govier's little white book I have has an error as to the 2nd digit of the VIN has anyone else noticed it) Also the 1st 2 digits of the VIN are added on the assembly line to designate what kind of vehicle it is the rest of the tag is pre stamped.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top