[SOLD] 64 65 66 valiant,barracuda front kick panels wanted

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"it' made big"

Yeah, I forgot to tell you to stay inside the lines.


Yeah I did that or at least I tried... had that problem as a kid too!:binky: but I intentionally made it (the wooden buck) bigger because the plastic will shrink .002 per inch in all ways . your tracings were DEAD ON, thanks! I owe ya!
 
Subscribed! Are you going to stretch fleece over your buck and soak it with fiberglass resin, then add a layer of fiberglass mat for strength? :happy1:
nop gotta do a bondo setup. if I leave open spaces in there the vacuum former will crush it. I found that out the hard way. 20 hours of work on a fiberglass mat, 2 layers of cloth and foam setup took about 3 seconds to crush. But truth be told I had a lot of open space in there too! If I was to do it on a home built setup it would have been ok, but since I wanted it done fast I took it to a vacuformer who still will do small runs of 15-30 sets , I'm looking into building a vacuformer so that I can test out stuff I need to make for the dart. I want a nice one so it'll cost a few buck to build.
 
got one side filled in (drivers side to be exact) to check how it will look.

it misses everything. the dimmers clear, the rear convertible top harness doesn't get in the way and there's even a little room to go with a deeper magnet on the 5 1/4 speakers. I ended up raising the speaker ring 3/4t in. just to make sure even my grandsons big ol boat feet 12's would fit, it close but he can hit the dimmer without banging on the speaker kickout much. drill out a vacuum hole for the speaker to form in and sand it down and it'll be good to go! Then on to the passengers side.

I'm also making a flat version to replace stock, but I'd liketo make the part that goes into the carper part of the panel a different shape to make the plastic stiffer. more like the newer cars sort of a j (but the bottom part of the j goes to the inside of the car ) that way I can get him to trim it with his machines instead if him having to hand trim it like he (ME) will have to do on the speaker kickout ones.

the speaker kick out will really stiffen up the panel in the top section and I'm trying to see if he can use close to what was the cardboards thickness to make the rest as stiff
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still need to finish sand and smooth out the bondo, drill a vacuum hole in the speaker center section to pull it flat to the mold and beef that area up with a piece of 1 inch pvc bondoed in the so it doesn't crush
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then fillet out the slope to the flat part so it'll com off the mold. I'm learning a lot form this guy cause I'd have made some BIG mistakes.



so far I've only had to redo 1 big item and that the side panel trim pieces of the convertible that I showed him and he asked where the braces were to keep the arched part from chrushing,=? DUH forgot to do the base plate for those, dang back to the drawing board to add those braces and bases. he said that if I had used them on a home built vac shop unit they still would have chrushed since there was no base with bracing. He said that I could do them on a slanted base to keep the 9 inch draw down down to 5 inches and that'd make the part a little easier to make not easy mind you but easier.


His statement was that it'd be easier to make the side panel itself than make the top trim plastic because of the undercut that was in the piece. weird ain't it? now he's got me thinking on making the side panel #$%#$%#$% gotta focus!!!!!:banghead:
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scotty cant you just flip that 1 I can trace you another set get your orders in Y did you have to goso thick shoot me a message if you want another set to trace dam the last 1ns looked so sweet too jon
 
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