64 rear end help

-
corbonz0

corbonz0

Member
Joined
Dec 7, 2010
Messages
11
Reaction score
0
Location
winters
so i switched my front to disk brakes (which was a pain to figure out the right stuff) and now the front pattern is 5 by 4.5" while my rear is still 5 by 4" so i am trying to figure out how to chang that. i belive i have a 7 1/4 rear end so i am trying to switch it to an 8 1/4 or an 8 3/4 but i am having trouble. i know a guy who has a 8 3/4 but with no axels and i know it will be to wide so is there a way i can shorten it? any help would be nice and i am grateful for anyont that will give advice:cheers:
 
Here's some dimensions for your consideration.
63-72 7.25 overall= 53.2" center to center of spring perches = 43.02"
all 8.75 " = 51.4" " = 43"
F body8.25 " = 54.30" " = 44.46"

For my money seeing what i've posted i would use the 8.75 as the spring perch location is very close and the differerence in total length is 1.8" resulting in an approximate 7/8" shorter at each end. Think of it as a mini shortenin job. This should allow you to fit a wider tire in the well without doing anything. Just be sure and allow on the new wheels for diff back space.
Small Block
 
If your car is just for the street and has 350 or less horsepower, get a '73-6 A-body 8 1/4 rear end, bolt it in, and don't worry about it. If it's going to see the track or has lots of power, get the 8 3/4 and order some big bolt pattern (BBP) axles for it. If it's not an A-body housing, you'll have to have it narrowed if you want any kind of tire clearence.
 
im building up a 360 to put in it so it ight have some power so i think ill go with that 8.75 does anyone know of a how to video or some pictures on how to narrow the rear end and ten where can i get some short axels
 
If this is your first attempt, I would not take on a rear-end narrowing job. You need to find a competent shop to do it because it all has to be done on a jig to ensure everything is straight and true. Axles can be custom order from companies like Moser and Strange to your custom specs. While you are narrowing the rear, you might as well do the spring-relocation kit as well and if you are going that far you might also want to consider a mini-tub job if you are really trying to get some decent tire under there.
-Tim
 
there will always be a first time so why not now haha
if i can find one that is already done i will get that. is there any place i can get a narrowed one from or am i outta luck on that?
 
How narrow are we talking? I have a NARROW one but i dont think this is what you want. Talk to us.
Small Block
 
I couldent find a spot to measure from the backing plate because it wasint one flat surface. So i measured from the outter part on my drum where the wheels actually mount against the drum and it was just about 58" from outside to outside. anything a little smaller could be ok too i just cant go any wider than that because of the tire clearance against the fender.
 
corbonz0 said:
there will always be a first time so why not now haha
if i can find one that is already done i will get that. is there any place i can get a narrowed one from or am i outta luck on that?
Click to expand...

places like Moser will build you a custom housing to your specs but be prepared to pay out the wazoo for it. If you are going to go custom it might be slightly cheaper to have a 9" ford rear built to spec rather than an a mopar 8 3/4 but that is up to you. with the ford housing and axles you would still retain the 5 on 4.5 bolt pattern.
-Tim
 
I've heard that the furd 9 inch from 57-59 fairlane is a direct bolt in to the early a. It's bbp, and you'll have to shorten the drive shaft, but something to keep in mind. Lots of stuff available for them and there a hell of a lot cheaper than an a body 8 3/4.
 
corbonz0 said:
I couldent find a spot to measure from the backing plate because it wasint one flat surface. So i measured from the outter part on my drum where the wheels actually mount against the drum and it was just about 58" from outside to outside. anything a little smaller could be ok too i just cant go any wider than that because of the tire clearance against the fender.
Click to expand...
That's pretty wide for an A-body. It will limit your tire and wheel choices. The last time I checked it was around a $100 to get a housing narrowed and $300 for a good set of steel axles to go with it. I'd get them from the same place so there is no question about fit. They'll need to know which brakes you have to get the correct length. This is not a do-it-yourself job. It needs a proper jig to get it all set up and welded true. I can't believe some are recommending a Ford 9". :wack: Unless you get a 31 spline nodular housing, the 8 3/4 is stronger and a better design. Better axle bearings too.
 
cudamark said:
I can't believe some are recommending a Ford 9". :wack: Unless you get a 31 spline nodular housing, the 8 3/4 is stronger and a better design. Better axle bearings too.
Click to expand...

I'm just keeping the options open, around here to shorten an 8 3/4 is pricey, and to find an a body one is somewhere around 900- 1000 bucks..
 
64 rearend is offset to pass side im putting a ford explorer 8.8 in my 64 valiant 318 mag 518 od trans ...factorer efi ...the ford rear end 59.5 hub to hub with rh 28 in ,lh31.5 center to hub ....spring perches at 40 in . move perches out 11/2 in.each side . cut ford perches off and reuse ....u can find these axles with disc brakes and 5x41/2 bp..for under 300 .00 with limted slip
 
I've been there & done this, I was told that you could redrill the smbp axles to the large which is what I have done on an 8.75 rear.Then you still have the issue with the drums. I finally got it together but we will see how she holds. The other problem with this route is that the sbp has a smaller center hub so I had an adapter made. It was a pain in the butt & I have about a grand tied up with the original purchase price of the rear. unfortunately I dont think you will get a posi 8.75 for much less if any. I have an 8.25 open that will fit its complete & taking up space....
 
yea i was told to drill out the bolt pattern to make it bigget to fit my wheels but the hubs are to small for that and i have no room for an adaptor the wheels i got have just centemeters between them and the body.
 
cudamark said:
That's pretty wide for an A-body. It will limit your tire and wheel choices. The last time I checked it was around a $100 to get a housing narrowed and $300 for a good set of steel axles to go with it. I'd get them from the same place so there is no question about fit. They'll need to know which brakes you have to get the correct length. This is not a do-it-yourself job. It needs a proper jig to get it all set up and welded true. I can't believe some are recommending a Ford 9". :wack: Unless you get a 31 spline nodular housing, the 8 3/4 is stronger and a better design. Better axle bearings too.
Click to expand...

where were you looking those prices seem pretty good to me
 
I believe it was from Moser but it was a couple of years ago so prices might be up a bit from then. We have a local shop that said 6 months ago that they will narrow a housing for $125. Some C-body axles can be cut and resplined also. That might save a little money if you don't need the extra strength of the performance shafts.
 
Unless your going to drag race and/or act really stupid on the street my recommendation is go for the A body 8 1/4. Bolts in, aprox 1.5" narrower that your stock 7 1/4, more available and much cheaper than a 8 3/4, big bolt pattern and allows an 8" wide rim + 255 tire without mini tubing (may need offset spring hanger kit). Don't forget the added expenses of shortening a non A 8 3/4 axle: new seals and bearings, labor for cutting and welding housing, new spring pads and welding, aftermarket or buy and chop/respline truck/C body axles, plus the drive shaft will need shortening also. That axle swap goes from an idea of a quick and easy swap to a smoking pile of cash, time and fustration. Freshen up a 8 1/4 with new bearings and seals and it will handle a lot of abuse on the street. But if your going with slicks you'd be better off with 8 3/4. Just don't kid yourself that it is going to be cheap or easy getting big tires under your car.
 
I'm in the market for an 8 1/4 for a '64 Gt convertible. Anybody got a clean one that they want to part with?
Dave
 
rapom65 said:
Unless your going to drag race and/or act really stupid on the street my recommendation is go for the A body 8 1/4. Bolts in, aprox 1.5" narrower that your stock 7 1/4, more available and much cheaper than a 8 3/4, big bolt pattern and allows an 8" wide rim + 255 tire without mini tubing (may need offset spring hanger kit). Don't forget the added expenses of shortening a non A 8 3/4 axle: new seals and bearings, labor for cutting and welding housing, new spring pads and welding, aftermarket or buy and chop/respline truck/C body axles, plus the drive shaft will need shortening also. That axle swap goes from an idea of a quick and easy swap to a smoking pile of cash, time and fustration. Freshen up a 8 1/4 with new bearings and seals and it will handle a lot of abuse on the street. But if your going with slicks you'd be better off with 8 3/4. Just don't kid yourself that it is going to be cheap or easy getting big tires under your car.
Click to expand...
This guy is telling you the truth,everybody would like to have a dana 60 under their car for 100 bucks.Unless you have a buddy that will give you one,probably wont happen.I have a body 8 3/4 9" ford out of 66 mustang,9 1/4 79 pickup 8.8 ford dana 44 dana 60 dana 70.Just depends on what you want to spend.Good Luck
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top