65 barracuda steering coupler rebuild Questions

[acidspitstormchild]

Got tired of laying around the house so went to tackle this loose coupler. Seemed easy enough looking at Steering Coupler Rebuild "How To"
. Removed the bolt at the end of the coupler. Started pulling the column but it just removes the shaft from the coupler. I wanted to remove as an assembly like the post above. Meaning the coupler comes off the box with the shaft.
Don’t want to hammer on it and damage the splines.
Thinking of re greasing the coupler while it’s still on the box and then inserting the shaft.
Tried to find info on here and service manual with no luck.

 

[remytherat]

You simply have to pull the coupler off the splines however you can. Some come off by hand, some are more stubborn. You can gentle hammer on it without hurting anything. You may also have some luck with a pry bar. It shouldn’t be too hard.

 

[WV64Signet]

Mine was a BEAST to remove due to the rust. Lots of PB Blaster soaking and patience

 

[acidspitstormchild]

thanks remytherat I figured as much. I’ll do the best I can. How did it go back on wv64signet? Was it just as bad coming off? I read someone who had trouble getting theirs off AND back on too. They ended up busting the new coupler seal and clamp during reinstall. Makes me question if I should just re pack it while it’s installed.

 

[65 Cuda 340]

I really wouldn't worry about pulling the shaft out of the coupler. With that loose cap, there's really nothing to hold the shaft in the coupler while you're pulling the column out. Just don't lose the little squares inside.

I have found that a large screwdriver is enough to pry the coupler off the steering box. That's assuming that it is not corroded like 64 Signet describes.

The biggest PITA is gonna be getting the cap on properly. Those tabs don't always want to cooperate. I've done some successfully, but not the cap on my 67 Barracuda. So I have a special hold down to put on it while my column is out. Right off hand I don't remember what they are called, and I bought mine a few years ago. Just now ready to put it on. Goes over the cap, and two ends poke into the roll pin. But I've just realized your column doesn't use a roll pin. So good luck. Without the clip, you may pop the cap off trying to get the column back in the car.

 

[cudamark]

I find a pickle fork can sometimes help get a stubborn coupler off the input shaft.

 

[acidspitstormchild]

Hey guys it was no problem, I was being overly cautious. Splines were nice and clean. Got it out Thursday. Gonna just take my time and get it nice again. Thanks as always

 

[65 Cuda 340]

Good job! Just make sure the squares inside the housing are oriented right. One way they are tight, other way loose.

 

[acidspitstormchild]

Alright guys been a tough few days health wise but I’m in the garage and I am trying to get this coupler clamp to work with me. Any tips? Kinda need to use it because the coupler had no lip to punch the tabs to. In other words the clamp is all that’s keeping it shut. Thanks in advance.

 

[RustyRatRod]

Alright guys been a tough few days health wise but I’m in the garage and I am trying to get this coupler clamp to work with me. Any tips? Kinda need to use it because the coupler had no lip to punch the tabs to. In other words the clamp is all that’s keeping it shut. Thanks in advance.

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Yeah. Turn the clamp 90 degrees and stick the ends in the roll pin holes.

 

[RustyRatRod]

IMO these are a lot better and easier.

Mopar Coupler Cover Quick Boot - Bergman Auto Craft

This Mopar Coupler Cover Quick Boot 'Problem Solver' Coupler Cover slides over your Mopar steering coupler in place of the rubber seal and metal lock tab.

bergmanautocraft.com

 

[acidspitstormchild]

Yeah. Turn the clamp 90 degrees and stick the ends in the roll pin holes.

This one doesn’t have the roll pin

 

[cudamark]

That might be the set screw type that year.

 

[acidspitstormchild]

That might be the set screw type that year.

Yea it sure is

 

[mopowers]

So drill a couple holes in the base to plug the tines on the retainer in.

 

[TheTieWrapKid]

IMO these are a lot better and easier.

http://[URL]https://bergmanautocraft.com/product/problem-solver-coupler-cover/

[/URL]

I got one from steer and gear. Works good.

 

[Tracey-speed003]

Or go this route like I did on my 65 Dart unless

your dead set on the Mopar one

 

[Bob67Barracuda]

Thread I would’ve blown right past a few weeks ago, but I’m on a separate project that has me dealing with this same issue. While replacing the starter and brake booster/MC on my ‘67 Cuda, I noticed the rubber gasket and metal retaining ring just floating on the steering rod. Can’t be good, I figured. Didn’t take long to realize that the bent old metal cap was not going to hold anything in place. After some FABO-ing, I ordered the after-market retaining clip from eBay. Turned out to be a waste of $26 in my case. With the steering column in place, there was going to be no way to get that clip on. And pulling the steering column is not on my road map. So I followed the path of another fed up FABO-ian and just pumped some grease into the coupler void, aligned the gasket and ring as best I could, and encircled the perimeter with Permatex Ultra Black. Pretty lame approach, I admit. But summers are short in my parts and I need to get back on the road!

 

[Tracey-speed003]

Thread I would’ve blown right past a few weeks ago, but I’m on a separate project that has me dealing with this same issue. While replacing the starter and brake booster/MC on my ‘67 Cuda, I noticed the rubber gasket and metal retaining ring just floating on the steering rod. Can’t be good, I figured. Didn’t take long to realize that the bent old metal cap was not going to hold anything in place. After some FABO-ing, I ordered the after-market retaining clip from eBay. Turned out to be a waste of $26 in my case. With the steering column in place, there was going to be no way to get that clip on. And pulling the steering column is not on my road map. So I followed the path of another fed up FABO-ian and just pumped some grease into the coupler void, aligned the gasket and ring as best I could, and encircled the perimeter with Permatex Ultra Black. Pretty lame approach, I admit. But summers are short in my parts and I need to get back on the road!

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You can install a u-joint coupler with column in like I did in the Pic right above that I sent him of my 65 Dart, I paid like $18.50 from AFCO and have seen some of their other products recommended by FABO members, just have to turn the steering wheel to bring set screws to the top. Just throwing it out there cause I know I will never have to mess with a steering coupler again

 

[Bob67Barracuda]

You can install a u-joint coupler with column in like I did in the Pic right above that I sent him of my 65 Dart, I paid like $18.50 from AFCO and have seen some of their other products recommended by FABO members, just have to turn the steering wheel to bring set screws to the top. Just throwing it out there cause I know I will never have to mess with a steering coupler again

So to be clear, I could do that coupler without removing the entire steering column?

 

[RustyRatRod]

This one doesn’t have the roll pin

So you got the wrong part then. That clamp isn't made for your coupler. Get that quick boot I linked to above.

 

[65TerrorCuda]

Someone has taken an angle grinder to that coupler. Probably won't break but I'd replace it.

 

[Tracey-speed003]

So to be clear, I could do that coupler without removing the entire steering column?

So our steering gears are the same and the end of the u-joint for the steering gear is 3/4" with 36 splines and right above that going towards the fire wall is the actual swivel section and it measures 1.615 inches and I am betting that your factory headache piece is wider than that measured across from your #2 & 3 header tubes towards the inner fender well so it will slip on with ease, you may have take out the 2 bolts that hold your column under the dash so you have a little sliding room, the u-joint length is 3-3/4" long, I don't know if your steering shaft is the same diameter as mine if it is its a 1" round shaft smooth not splined or DD. All that being said you should be able slide it on and tighten the set screws and put 2 bolts back in under the dash, but there is always buts, if your car was originally a manual steering car the only thing more that might have to be done is possibly shorten your shaft some but I don't know that because my Dart was a power steering ca and I added a bushing to lengthen it and oops reminded me that is why I went to 1" diameter on the steering shaft end so you should not have to that, I had to buy 1"-48 spline x 3/4"-36 spline and then used a die grinder and took the splines off to a 1" smooth and only spent around $20.00 on eBay instead of upwards of $83.00 for a Borgeson or a Flaming River etc. over priced ****, but I also have my own powder coating system, so as I am typing my F'n Dart is right behind me so I measured the factory part of the shaft {must of had a sometimers moment) and it is 3/4", and who knows you may have to use a 3/4 ID x 1' OD bushing like me but I didn't spend $30 total and you saw my picture, the only other thing I did was drill and tap for set screws on the steering shaft end as the u-joint coupler only came with one on the steering gear side, well there you have it and I try not to leave anything out when sharing what I did and I think its only about a 3 Beer job. let me know how it goes, Tracey

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[acidspitstormchild]

Thread I would’ve blown right past a few weeks ago, but I’m on a separate project that has me dealing with this same issue. While replacing the starter and brake booster/MC on my ‘67 Cuda, I noticed the rubber gasket and metal retaining ring just floating on the steering rod. Can’t be good, I figured. Didn’t take long to realize that the bent old metal cap was not going to hold anything in place. After some FABO-ing, I ordered the after-market retaining clip from eBay. Turned out to be a waste of $26 in my case. With the steering column in place, there was going to be no way to get that clip on. And pulling the steering column is not on my road map. So I followed the path of another fed up FABO-ian and just pumped some grease into the coupler void, aligned the gasket and ring as best I could, and encircled the perimeter with Permatex Ultra Black. Pretty lame approach, I admit. But summers are short in my parts and I need to get back on the road!

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I’m not sure how different the 67 is to the 65 but my steering column came out pretty easy. I also did order that quick fix rubber boot for the coupler. I would go for that u joint style but I’m sure it’s more money than I’d want to spend. Perhaps in the future I’ll go for it!

 

[65 Cuda 340]

65 or 67, pulling the steering column is at most a 15-20 minute job. See #5 (my 67 Barracuda's column). On my 67, three bolts on the firewall plate, 3 bolts on the column support under the dash, one electrical connection, one roll pin and - if you have a column shift automatic - one clip for the shift rod. Then the column just slides out.