65' Cuda Drum to Disc advice

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Sjohnson

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As the title says I need all the advice I can get going from Drums all around to discs in the front. To give you a little back story I currently have a 5.9L/360 Small block sitting in the car now. So how hard would it be to do this conversion or should I even worry about it right now since im still in the restoring process? Let me know your advice!
 
Lots of threads on this topic. Early A disc conversion. Usually requires some later model control arms but there are several ways to skin a cat as it were....
 
You have like 3 choices:

1. Factory Kelsey-Hays, 4 piston calipers, change lower ball joint, still retain small bolt pattern, different master cylinder.

2. Factory single piston calipers from a 73 to 76 "A" body, requires same years upper control arms (73-76), different master cylinder, change to large bolt pattern.

3. Aftermarket, Wilwood is one I can think of off the top of my head, there are a host of others. Other members may know of many more and list them.

Myself, I did the factory 73 to 76 route, it's easy. If the front end of your car has never been rebuilt in the past, this would be a perfect time. Also an upgrade in the rear wouldn't hurt; that 5.9 will make a mess of the 7 1/4 sooner rather than later. IF you go this route; factory single piston from 73 to 76, take the rear out of the donor car, which should be an 8 1/4, don't worry about gear ratio that can always be changed.

Good luck!
 
My son's '65 Cuda has the conversion to the 73-76 front discs; it works really well for general street use on that light early A-body. We installed a dual master cylinder from the same year range. (It was the 15/16" diameter bore MC, from a power brake car.)

If your rubber lines are old, replace them now. After 20 years or so, they will tend to deteriorate on the inner hose (where you cannot see it) and will often self-plug up when activated and hold the brakes ON.

New hard lines depends on the condition of the existing ones. Just inspect and make a judgement.

What size drums do you have in back? Depending on the rear drum size, you will need a proportioning valve to reduce rear line pressure under hard braking, to prevent the rears from locking prematurely. 10" rear drums reportedly can be made to work OK without one; if you go to 11" rear drums (like on a larger rear axle), then a proportioning valve, or proportioning with front pad selection, will be needed.
 
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