I'm debating changing the oil pan gasket on my 65 Valiant 170 because it's really nasty. I've already changed, intake/exhaust manifold gaskets, valve cover gasket, timing cover gasket, oil pump gasket. I've got the factory manual and it says you have to remove the center link and raise the engine 1-2 inches. Where the car is it may not be possible to lift the engine because it's outside where there is no garage access and no smooth driveway. Can you raise it still with a jack and get it off? Or do you actually have to raise the engine or can you wiggle it in and out?
65 Valiant 170 changing oil pan gasket is it easy?
- Thread starter wh23g3g
- Start date
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Impossible to answer because everyone's definition of easy is not the same.
Like you stated,get the steering linkage out of the way,remove the nuts on the engine mounts,using a block of wood between the jack and the transmission pan place toward the front of the pan you can lift it enough.If a stick you can jack at the bell housing inspection pan.Still, not much fun lying on your back.
BillGrissom
Well-Known Member
I did it several times. Not too hard. Even w/o a hydraulic jack, you can lift it w/ cheap scissors jack that came on many 90's cars and up. I wouldn't lift from the tranny pan since that gives a large cantilevered load. I lift under the oil pan, using a 2x6 w/ newspapers on top to distribute the load and not crunch the pan. Once up, slide wood between the (unbolted) engine mounts and K-frame to keep it up, then remove the jack. As you jack, insure you aren't bottoming the top of the tranny to the tunnel. You will see the engine stop moving relative to the car body when that starts. Check that your right engine bracket isn't bent like mine was, since a good time to bend it back on a shop press.
The bolts are 1/2" head I recall, and helps to have several wrenches and socket extensions. Be real careful when tightening the bolts that go into the rear aluminum seal mount. Many have been stripped, so check yours while out and you can Heli-coil fix it. Also a good time to change that seal (same as 426 Hemi, which has an upgraded part). Much nicer if you clean everything first. I use diesel, scraping, then engine degreaser (dollar store "LA Awesome" works), then brake cleaner and ethanol if going to respray while it is all purty. While the pan is off, you could also change the rod and crank bearings, if you have measured low oil pressure.
I recall using a silicone gasket from Real Gaskets (TN). It should last forever, but requires very flat surfaces to seal. Use a dab of silicone RTV in the bottom corners of the timing cover.
The bolts are 1/2" head I recall, and helps to have several wrenches and socket extensions. Be real careful when tightening the bolts that go into the rear aluminum seal mount. Many have been stripped, so check yours while out and you can Heli-coil fix it. Also a good time to change that seal (same as 426 Hemi, which has an upgraded part). Much nicer if you clean everything first. I use diesel, scraping, then engine degreaser (dollar store "LA Awesome" works), then brake cleaner and ethanol if going to respray while it is all purty. While the pan is off, you could also change the rod and crank bearings, if you have measured low oil pressure.
I recall using a silicone gasket from Real Gaskets (TN). It should last forever, but requires very flat surfaces to seal. Use a dab of silicone RTV in the bottom corners of the timing cover.
Last edited:
pishta
I know I'm right....
That pan gasket is a ****, the front 2 bolts are practically over the K member and the front rail gasket needs to be pulled into the timing cover by the teets. Make sure you use a dollop of RTV at the corners up front. Start all bolts by hand and torque evenly.
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