65 Valiant Turn signal cancellation

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85glht

85glht

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So, it was a nice day yesterday and I took my “new” acquisition out for a ride. It wasn’t bad having no drivers side rear view mirror. But, one thing I noticed was that the turn signals do not cancel after turning the steering wheel. Was that a thing back then or do I have to look into this? Any info is greatly appreciated!

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The turn signal switch is made of plastic and located just under the steering wheel. It is common for one of the "cancelling fingers" to break off resulting in no cancelling upon returning to straight ahead. In these cases the switch must be replaced.
 
I got the same problem when reinstalling the steering wheel in my Demon.
The steering wheel wasn't sufficiently screwed down on the column. The cancellation stud behind the wheel couldn't reach the turn signal switch.
I screwed down the steering wheel a few more and everything went back to normal
 
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French demon said:
I got the same problem when reinstalling the steering wheel in my Demon.
The steering wheel wasn't sufficiently screwed down on the column. The little stud behind the wheel couldn't reach the turn signal switch.
I screwed down the steering wheel a few more and everything went back to normal
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Something to add on my “to do” list for the winter
 
You can just replace the "Cam" and not the entire switch if the cancel is the only problem.
I installed this cam # SM13 made by Shee-Mar in my 63. I got it from Classic Industries. Their part #MD2095 $8.99
Be careful,remove small push clip, pry the cancel part from the switch install new cancel cam it comes with a new push clip. Works for me !
 
Stock steering wheel? Some aftermarket wheels are a bit sketchy on the way they trigger the turn signal switch. As Darter6 mentioned, if the switch works good otherwise, you can replace just the cancel cam with the kit he mentioned. I've done it several times with mostly good luck too. Some switches are too brittle, warped, or otherwise not repairable, but, most are if you're careful in replacing that cam.
 
cudamark said:
Stock steering wheel? Some aftermarket wheels are a bit sketchy on the way they trigger the turn signal switch. As Darter6 mentioned, if the switch works good otherwise, you can replace just the cancel cam with the kit he mentioned. I've done it several times with mostly good luck too. Some switches are too brittle, warped, or otherwise not repairable, but, most are if you're careful in replacing that cam.
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Stock steering wheel. I'll look into it over the winter. I'll probably have questions on the procedure.
 
Darter6 said:
Good looking hardtop by the way !!!
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Thank you!! Found it on Marketplace. I was looking for an A body all summer long. Lots of "junk" out there. I came across this one and I couldn't pass it up.
 
A word of caution when installing a new switch/cam/whattheheckever. Don't overtighten the screws. They don't need to be tightened much at all to hold it in place. Overtightening them can warp the plastic just enough so it does not cancel like it should coming out of a turn.
 
Thanks again for the replies... I haven't even attacked this yet... I've got some drill holes in the floor I need to fill (previous owner :rolleyes:) and frame ties to weld in then reinstall the original seats with slip covers (they need new upholstery). I'll be back for the how to take everything in the steering wheel apart later this winter... I hope. :thumbsup:
 
It is also common for aftermarket switches to have those same fingers not in the right position to hit the canceling pin on the steering wheel resulting in the same problem. May need to use needlenose to “bend “ the fingers and hope the plastic does not break.
 
Another one who's happy with the switches Dan sells. It takes a bit of doing to figure out how to thread the wires through the column, though, so if you can swap out just the cam it's worth a try.
 
MadScientistMat said:
Another one who's happy with the switches Dan sells. It takes a bit of doing to figure out how to thread the wires through the column, though, so if you can swap out just the cam it's worth a try.
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Tape a long string or wire to the old wiring harness after you remove the connector and before you pull the old switch out. Pull the switch with the wiring up and out of the column. Remove the tape from the old harness and retape the string/wire to the new wiring harness and reverse the process. Really isn't all that hard.
 
IIRC I had to do some sort of trick with exactly how I taped the pins so they wouldn't snag.
 
Those cancelling cam fingers are somewhat brittle. I’ve tried all different cams and it’s the same problem. Better to replace the entire switch.

By the way, let’s see a little more of your car. Looks good with Cragers.
 
dart4forte said:
Those cancelling cam fingers are somewhat brittle. I’ve tried all different cams and it’s the same problem. Better to replace the entire switch.

By the way, let’s see a little more of your car. Looks good with Cragers.
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when I get home... no pics on work computer :(
 
dart4forte said:
Those cancelling cam fingers are somewhat brittle. I’ve tried all different cams and it’s the same problem. Better to replace the entire switch.

By the way, let’s see a little more of your car. Looks good with Cragers.
Click to expand...
As promised

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dart4forte said:
Those cancelling cam fingers are somewhat brittle. I’ve tried all different cams and it’s the same problem. Better to replace the entire switch.

By the way, let’s see a little more of your car. Looks good with Cragers.
Click to expand...

I heat them up with a match to soften them before trying to bend them with needle nose.
 
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