j par
Well-hung Member
Am I missing something here? Gas line disconeced, sending unit, and strap.
it won't slip off the filler neck:banghead:
it won't slip off the filler neck:banghead:
66 barracuda gas tank won't come off
- Thread starter j par
- Start date
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j par
Well-hung Member
I better post this in early a body?
Sorry, first early a body. ...
Sorry, first early a body. ...
j par
Well-hung Member
Can't get the tank to slip off the filler neck?
Any ideas? Thank you. ...
Any ideas? Thank you. ...
clifftt
Well-Known Member
White grease in an aerosol can with a straw, a pocket flat blade screwdriver to stretch out the hose around the neck, a continuous twist back and forth, and patience. Mine was stuck, but I got it off by myself without jacking up the car. It took about a half hour after everything was loose, and a lot of cussing.
Did you remove the filler neck rubber grommet where it goes through the trunk floor? And disconnect the filler neck from the body?
j par
Well-hung Member
are you saying take the 3 screws out of the body by the filler cap and pull the whole neck out with the tank?
its weird how on my 73 duster I can take those three screws out and pull the whole filling tube out the side of the body and out of the tank.
70DartMike
Too many projects
Sometimes there will be a build up of grunge and surface rust on the filler neck where the neck slides through the rubber grommet in the tank. Try twisting the tank while pulling it to slide it down the filler neck.
Yeah. It helps if everything is disconnected. It also keeps from possibly denting the quarter all up if the filler neck is stubborn and will not break loose. I also shoot some penetrating oil all around the filler neck where it goes into the grommet. Saturated the hell out of it.
j par
Well-hung Member
I figured it might come to patients and cussing.LOL
j par
Well-hung Member
Will do. well I was going to wait till tomorrow to work on it again. Since it is, I'll give it another shot.
j par
Well-hung Member
@$*?! That didn't work! Triple R I get not wanting to dent the body. But when I took the screws out around the filler neck the whole thing tried to come with the gas tank and just bownd the gas tank up against the iner body and would not come free from the gas tank at all to slid back and forth.I think leaving it screwed and will allow me to twist it back and forth but gently so don't dent the outside
As triple R said : " Penetrating oil..." ... To " penetrate", it needs some time , to soak. My best advice :This is a vintage automobile. They have been assembled, for 50 years. These parts get expensive, if you hack them up. Give it some time to penetrate, and break it loose slowly, & naturally. It will save you money and frustration, in the long run. Relax.
I skip the patience and go right to rip and tear and cuss. lol
j par
Well-hung Member
I gave up! I'm going to blow the car apart for a few weeks this spring, and I'll see to that tank then.
chryslerfat
Well-Known Member
Dont blow it up just get a bigger hammer.
wow man!! if the car is jacked up where you can get under it and wreasel it all around, it WILL come off! they can be stubborn in cold weather, that rubber grommet at the tank will also get hard over the decades>>>
j par
Well-hung Member
I'm going to replace the carpet in the back next month, and I'll be able to get a hold of the filler neck while
pulling and twisting on the tank. For now I'm just sucking the rust out through the filter.
pulling and twisting on the tank. For now I'm just sucking the rust out through the filter.
I simply unscrew it from the body, spray it down as suggested and reach into the trunk and twist it back and forth by hand to loosen it up. This is gas tank removal and you're giving up. There are a LOT more difficult things on a car. I will stop right there.
j par
Well-hung Member
what you're saying is exactly what I want to do. Next month I'll be ordering a new carpet kit for it and at that point I'll be back there where the neck cut through the trunk area and be able to hold on to it. It felt like it had a chrome sleeve around it that I couldn't really hold on to the neck itself.and even at that I would have to have someone inside holding the neck and twisting it while holding the tank down below. I have not given up totally I'm going to take it off but only with better timing. I've got to get that stroker motor in the duster and then I'll have more garage space to do a lot more and get a lot more into this 66 barracuda.
66340SEDAN
FABO Member #3649
Liquid dish soap is good for lubing up rubber seals too, try that?
pishta
I know I'm right....
Gojo works good to, Smooth with lanolin. Clean hands afterwords too!
j par
Well-hung Member
Thank you for all the great ideas! I'm going to get the duster running again and hopefully back on the barracuda before the end of January. I'll be tinkering on it here and there, but I'll be full bore on it after the duster is track ready.
GEO
Sarcasm Inc.
Spray the seal with silicone , it will soften the rubber some and it should slide right off
chryslerfat
Well-Known Member
Yes it does have a chrome sleeve around it. That will make it difficult to hold still.
From my experiences with them, I leave the tube connected to the car for removal AND reapplication. You will have as some corrosion / build-up on the tube that extends into the gas tank just past the grommet seal as some have already mentioned.
You will also want to pull the tank while twisting at the same angle as the tube going into the tank, not a downward or sharper down angle....but is tight since the spare tire well is there too. You don't want to warp any of the gas tank metal or the tube that goes into it. Don't worry about the grommet seal as far as removal goes....$20.82 will get you another "fuel tank filler tube grommet" from Valley Vintage auto parts ( vvap.com ) I'm sure there's cheaper elsewhere, but that's what I found when I did mine about 6 months ago.
Try to remove it in such a manner that you understand what angle(s) or technique is needed to do so, that way the new grommet doesn't get ruined in the shoe horning process to reinstall it!
Before going back up with the tank, take some fine emery cloth and buff the corrosion off of the tube only to clean bare metal, make sure the grommet is applied correctly to the tank and use dish soap to lube the tube and grommet.....NOT something that will want to soften and such the rubber grommet. You will feel a little more initial resistance to get the tube started into the grommet since it's new, but it's all good after that. (do not let tank hang by it's self at ANY given time) Once you get the strap reapplied, just get it barely snug to make sure the tank isn't pulling up wrong. Keep bumping side to side to make sure the tube and the grommet are not in a bind or you will be dropping it again to replace the grommet since the tube and gas tank lip where grommet goes WILL cut through over time. Then fill it up....you might have a barely noticeable bit of seepage at first (not enough to make a drip), but that should stop shortly after.
Good luck, keep the updates on the 66 coming!
You will also want to pull the tank while twisting at the same angle as the tube going into the tank, not a downward or sharper down angle....but is tight since the spare tire well is there too. You don't want to warp any of the gas tank metal or the tube that goes into it. Don't worry about the grommet seal as far as removal goes....$20.82 will get you another "fuel tank filler tube grommet" from Valley Vintage auto parts ( vvap.com ) I'm sure there's cheaper elsewhere, but that's what I found when I did mine about 6 months ago.
Try to remove it in such a manner that you understand what angle(s) or technique is needed to do so, that way the new grommet doesn't get ruined in the shoe horning process to reinstall it!
Before going back up with the tank, take some fine emery cloth and buff the corrosion off of the tube only to clean bare metal, make sure the grommet is applied correctly to the tank and use dish soap to lube the tube and grommet.....NOT something that will want to soften and such the rubber grommet. You will feel a little more initial resistance to get the tube started into the grommet since it's new, but it's all good after that. (do not let tank hang by it's self at ANY given time) Once you get the strap reapplied, just get it barely snug to make sure the tank isn't pulling up wrong. Keep bumping side to side to make sure the tube and the grommet are not in a bind or you will be dropping it again to replace the grommet since the tube and gas tank lip where grommet goes WILL cut through over time. Then fill it up....you might have a barely noticeable bit of seepage at first (not enough to make a drip), but that should stop shortly after.
Good luck, keep the updates on the 66 coming!
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