yup. just like that.
66 barracuda gasser project (redrum)
- Thread starter Budget mopar guy
- Start date
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yup. just like that.
RustyRatRod
Caput villa stultus
Very nice metal work!
Budget mopar guy
Active Member
As far as a four-speed goes, I know that there is 18 spline and 23 spline. I believe the 18 spline were like in the hemi cars and I’m sure they’re probably extremely expensive. I believe that I have a 23 spline for speed, but I have had it in storage for years so I have to go and look at it.. My question is how well do the 23 spline for speeds for the small blocks hold up. When I tear it apart to rebuild it is there anything hardened or more durable that I should install in the transmission to make it hold up? Speed cars are really rough on the drive train so I’m trying to make this thing as reliable as I can.
it'll hold up to a pretty decent amount of abuse.
usually the shift forks are the weak part-- highly suggest upgrading to the 71+ steel forks if it doesn't have them already. this goes hand in hand with the side cover-- the later 70+ double interlock lever *should* already have steel forks, but the earlier ball/detent cover is the more preferred one.
the clearance between the second gear and the 1-2 slider hub needs to be tight (like .005) or you can bust the collar.
the 71+ synchros are better
i've seen the rooster combs break/distort/bend, liberty gear used to sell a hardened steel upgrade. however, i think you had to machine the cover for them.
in extreme circumstances you can get deflection in the shift rods and that may be something you'll need to address.
unless you're making big power and dead hooking it while imitating go-go-gorilla at the controls i'll hold up. just do the forks and check the clearances.
usually the shift forks are the weak part-- highly suggest upgrading to the 71+ steel forks if it doesn't have them already. this goes hand in hand with the side cover-- the later 70+ double interlock lever *should* already have steel forks, but the earlier ball/detent cover is the more preferred one.
the clearance between the second gear and the 1-2 slider hub needs to be tight (like .005) or you can bust the collar.
the 71+ synchros are better
i've seen the rooster combs break/distort/bend, liberty gear used to sell a hardened steel upgrade. however, i think you had to machine the cover for them.
in extreme circumstances you can get deflection in the shift rods and that may be something you'll need to address.
unless you're making big power and dead hooking it while imitating go-go-gorilla at the controls i'll hold up. just do the forks and check the clearances.
Budget mopar guy
Active Member
Tonight started by welding in 2 patches into the replacement cowl. After that a generous slathering of por15 was applied to the back of the patch and its welds. After that was all done it was time to install the cowl….. finally. From that point I mocked it up for like the 10th time and dusted primer over the spot weld holes leaving perfect little primer circles on the under cowl. This marked where I needed to grind so the plug welds would weld smoothly and cleanly. After the grinding was done it was time to install the cowl for the final time. I welded and ground each weld while following my work with clamps to keep the metal tight. After everything was welded I put the DA to work and sanded like 75% of the cowl. I notices some tiny pitting In some spots from some minor surface rust that was sanded off. I came too far to risk any rust coming back even if it’s minor and merely were to effect the paint slightly. So I painted that area with a rust converter. I’ll let is set for 24 hours and go back at it with the DA until it’s ready for primer filler. The floor pans are next on the hit list. After I buzz them in, it will be time to install the straight axel. 
Budget mopar guy
Active Member
Lol I think I’m getting good at this patching Sheet metal thing lol.
You guys like the patches? Especially cuz in doing all this with a flux core welder from harbor freight. There’s a bit of grinding involved but they come out pretty good once you get the technique down and Sigurd out your settings
You guys like the patches? Especially cuz in doing all this with a flux core welder from harbor freight. There’s a bit of grinding involved but they come out pretty good once you get the technique down and Sigurd out your settings
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