yup. just like that.
66 barracuda gasser project (redrum)
- Thread starter Budget mopar guy
- Start date
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yup. just like that.
Very nice metal work!
Budget mopar guy
Well-Known Member
As far as a four-speed goes, I know that there is 18 spline and 23 spline. I believe the 18 spline were like in the hemi cars and I’m sure they’re probably extremely expensive. I believe that I have a 23 spline for speed, but I have had it in storage for years so I have to go and look at it.. My question is how well do the 23 spline for speeds for the small blocks hold up. When I tear it apart to rebuild it is there anything hardened or more durable that I should install in the transmission to make it hold up? Speed cars are really rough on the drive train so I’m trying to make this thing as reliable as I can.
it'll hold up to a pretty decent amount of abuse.
usually the shift forks are the weak part-- highly suggest upgrading to the 71+ steel forks if it doesn't have them already. this goes hand in hand with the side cover-- the later 70+ double interlock lever *should* already have steel forks, but the earlier ball/detent cover is the more preferred one.
the clearance between the second gear and the 1-2 slider hub needs to be tight (like .005) or you can bust the collar.
the 71+ synchros are better
i've seen the rooster combs break/distort/bend, liberty gear used to sell a hardened steel upgrade. however, i think you had to machine the cover for them.
in extreme circumstances you can get deflection in the shift rods and that may be something you'll need to address.
unless you're making big power and dead hooking it while imitating go-go-gorilla at the controls i'll hold up. just do the forks and check the clearances.
usually the shift forks are the weak part-- highly suggest upgrading to the 71+ steel forks if it doesn't have them already. this goes hand in hand with the side cover-- the later 70+ double interlock lever *should* already have steel forks, but the earlier ball/detent cover is the more preferred one.
the clearance between the second gear and the 1-2 slider hub needs to be tight (like .005) or you can bust the collar.
the 71+ synchros are better
i've seen the rooster combs break/distort/bend, liberty gear used to sell a hardened steel upgrade. however, i think you had to machine the cover for them.
in extreme circumstances you can get deflection in the shift rods and that may be something you'll need to address.
unless you're making big power and dead hooking it while imitating go-go-gorilla at the controls i'll hold up. just do the forks and check the clearances.
Budget mopar guy
Well-Known Member
Tonight started by welding in 2 patches into the replacement cowl. After that a generous slathering of por15 was applied to the back of the patch and its welds. After that was all done it was time to install the cowl….. finally. From that point I mocked it up for like the 10th time and dusted primer over the spot weld holes leaving perfect little primer circles on the under cowl. This marked where I needed to grind so the plug welds would weld smoothly and cleanly. After the grinding was done it was time to install the cowl for the final time. I welded and ground each weld while following my work with clamps to keep the metal tight. After everything was welded I put the DA to work and sanded like 75% of the cowl. I notices some tiny pitting In some spots from some minor surface rust that was sanded off. I came too far to risk any rust coming back even if it’s minor and merely were to effect the paint slightly. So I painted that area with a rust converter. I’ll let is set for 24 hours and go back at it with the DA until it’s ready for primer filler. The floor pans are next on the hit list. After I buzz them in, it will be time to install the straight axel. 
Budget mopar guy
Well-Known Member
Lol I think I’m getting good at this patching Sheet metal thing lol.
You guys like the patches? Especially cuz in doing all this with a flux core welder from harbor freight. There’s a bit of grinding involved but they come out pretty good once you get the technique down and Sigurd out your settings
You guys like the patches? Especially cuz in doing all this with a flux core welder from harbor freight. There’s a bit of grinding involved but they come out pretty good once you get the technique down and Sigurd out your settings
Budget mopar guy
Well-Known Member
Well I went back and forth on what trans to use and I finally decided for sure….. I’m putting a 4 speed in it. I’ll race it like this and when it comes time to do drag week Ill purchase a gear vendors 4 gear setup for the highway cruising.
For now this will get me behind the wheel and racing stick class. I have the a body 833 and I have a scatter shield for it in the shed. I also acquired a 66 floor hump for the 4 speed. What I really want is a ramrod style / v gate shifter for it. Why are they sooo overpriced and expensive??$$.
This trans is out of a 72 ( I believe) demon. Will there be any figment issues with the hump ? I don’t know if there are differences between the early 833 and later models aside from the trunion setup.
For now this will get me behind the wheel and racing stick class. I have the a body 833 and I have a scatter shield for it in the shed. I also acquired a 66 floor hump for the 4 speed. What I really want is a ramrod style / v gate shifter for it. Why are they sooo overpriced and expensive??$$.
This trans is out of a 72 ( I believe) demon. Will there be any figment issues with the hump ? I don’t know if there are differences between the early 833 and later models aside from the trunion setup.
Budget mopar guy
Well-Known Member
Well that’s the passenger side floor pan welded in. Before and after
Budget mopar guy
Well-Known Member
Do you have a detailed thread on how this is done? I have located some ball and trunion 4 speeds very reasonably priced near me recently
Budget mopar guy
Well-Known Member
So I was back at it again. Both pans are in boys!!!! I removed the 4 speed hump from the pieces that were left over from the car I cut it off of. I then mocked up the 4 speed. It’s out of a 71 demon so the cross member attached to it wouldn’t bolt up to my car. So I robbed the cross member off the 3 speed I took out. More on that in a bit. Got everything welded in and is solid as a rock. I also welded 90 degree brackets on the trans hump to use nut Serts so that it can be removable. This will make working on it much easier especially at the track.
Now as far as the trans goes. It may be an issue with the slant six mount or I may need a couple different components . I don’t know to be honest . With the slant six mount I noticed the trans was sitting way far forward ( about an inch further than It should be by my estimation. There is an offset to the mount so I spun it around and I seemed much better . Now I noticed the knobs for the Z BAR don’t line up . Also the slant Z bar seems way too long . The slant knob can be mounted in place of the knob that came with the transmission with some modification. Not sure if I need to source those parts from a factory 4 speed car or just buy replacements for the alignment sake. I think I’m going to go online and buy the correct mount to ensure alignment . Any tech info would be great on this. I’m low on experience when I comes to 4 speeds
Now as far as the trans goes. It may be an issue with the slant six mount or I may need a couple different components . I don’t know to be honest . With the slant six mount I noticed the trans was sitting way far forward ( about an inch further than It should be by my estimation. There is an offset to the mount so I spun it around and I seemed much better . Now I noticed the knobs for the Z BAR don’t line up . Also the slant Z bar seems way too long . The slant knob can be mounted in place of the knob that came with the transmission with some modification. Not sure if I need to source those parts from a factory 4 speed car or just buy replacements for the alignment sake. I think I’m going to go online and buy the correct mount to ensure alignment . Any tech info would be great on this. I’m low on experience when I comes to 4 speeds
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Skills and patience going on here, yes! Gassers are so cool
Just a thought. for less hassle maybe look into a hydraulic clutch setup . No linkage problems.
But you look like a skilled fab/weld guy to handle the Z bar relocation.
You may also find the ratio on the Z bar may need adjustment. Another cut and weld.
But you look like a skilled fab/weld guy to handle the Z bar relocation.
You may also find the ratio on the Z bar may need adjustment. Another cut and weld.
Budget mopar guy
Well-Known Member
Who sells the hydraulic kits. And yeah, I’m gonna have to do some research on how much the fork is supposed to be pushed in to disengage the clutch and what not. I mean I’ve put clutches in turbo dodges, but they had a cable clutch set up. So this mechanic mechanical linkage stuff is a little little bit new to me.
Budget mopar guy
Well-Known Member
Lots of wire wheeling, Por 15 and rustolium brush on and here we are. Pans are done. Just need to add the nutserts for the 4 speed hump
Budget mopar guy
Well-Known Member
Oh yea……. That’s good
Budget mopar guy
Well-Known Member
A good score from Indy this year. Got my v gate shifter and a set of early a body fender well headers. Solid day I must say with some hard to find parts
abdywgn
dismantler
early 'Cuda gets the parts!
Budget mopar guy
Well-Known Member
Im painting them white again for pure nostalgia reasons lol
CudaJason
Well-Known Member
when you paint the headers, look at the Rustoleum High Heat BBQ paint in white. I used that on these headers on my Roadster and a year later they still look like i just painted them.
Budget mopar guy
Well-Known Member
That grill pain it’s gooooood stuff. I used it on an actual grill years ago and it sat out in the weather for years and held up great
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