66 Dart GT HT Whatsitgonnabe?

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MOPARMITCH said:
I think that close to level is best for handling purposes, But everyone's cars are not used in the same fashion. I personally prefer a slight rake for the day 2 look. I just did a complete suspension package on a 79 Trans Am. Including fabricate frame for coil overs. He wanted the car dead level, since he want to road race it.
Click to expand...

Thanks Mitch, What got me a little confused was that the front tire is so much lower than the rear relative to the edge of the fender well.

When I got it, it was seriously raked. I think I'll go with a more neutral stance, just a little raked.

I'm trying to figure out how to adjust the diff pinion angle. Am I correct in assuming that the trans and diff should be pretty close to parallell and the shaft at an angle of roughly 3 degrees relative to the trans output shaft?
 
Well, I was away on a ski trip last week and on the last day I had to stay in because I got a serious pain in one of my sinuses. Today I got antibiotics to get rid of the fever but then I pulled my back this morning.

So there will be no lying under my car for a few days.

And I was really looking forward to it driving home from norway. :banghead:
 
The other day I sold the Holley 600 I bought from Bad Sport along with the edelbrock air cleaner that came with the car. Made a profit so I decided to go on the hunt for a set of better heads. I wanted high comp heads.

Now I may be able to trade my LD4B intake for an RPM AirGap and get a set of Magnum heads for less than $250!

I can't see how that can be a bad switch any way you look at it.

And in the process I got a lead on a company that sells cheap tube bends so I can weld up a set of headers. A 90* bend is like $1.50! Kind of thick walled, 0.1", but that suits my welding skills. :D

So? What's the verdict? Should I swap intake and heads?

The heads I have now are 974.
 
360DartGT66 said:
The other day I sold the Holley 600 I bought from Bad Sport along with the edelbrock air cleaner that came with the car. Made a profit so I decided to go on the hunt for a set of better heads. I wanted high comp heads.

Now I may be able to trade my LD4B intake for an RPM AirGap and get a set of Magnum heads for less than $250!

I can't see how that can be a bad switch any way you look at it.

And in the process I got a lead on a company that sells cheap tube bends so I can weld up a set of headers. A 90* bend is like $1.50! Kind of thick walled, 0.1", but that suits my welding skills. :D

So? What's the verdict? Should I swap intake and heads?

The heads I have now are 974.
Click to expand...

Go for it!
 
I know I'm getting ahead of myself but I wonder if this could be a good cam for my low-end torque monster.

http://www.manciniracing.com/hyd268272dur.html

Cam Style: Hydraulic flat tappet
Basic Operating RPM Range: 1,500-5,800
Duration at 050 inch Lift: 228 int./231 exh.
Advertised Duration: 268 int./272 exh.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.450 int./0.455 exh.
Lobe Separation (degrees): 110

I've got a lead on a kit with lifters for $150 here in Sweden.

With the magnum heads I should get a decent compression ratio.

Here's the one I've got in now:

http://www.manciniracing.com/hyd280280dur.html

Cam Style: Hydraulic flat tappet
Basic Operating RPM Range: 2,000-6,000
Duration at 050 inch Lift: 238 int./238 exh.
Advertised Duration: 280 int./280 exh.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.474 int./0.474 exh.
Lobe Separation (degrees): 110
 
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I Went for a ride today looking for a company that could do some media blasting for me (suspension parts). Google pointed me to a place in the middle of the woods. Sure didn't look like a business when I got there.

On my way there, however, I realized I was going right past Djakken's house. I saw his car in the driveway so on my way back I stopped in for a chat.

Always a pleasure to meet him and he told me the first of the weekly cruise-ins at Nääs for the season is on Monday! This is just a few km from here and I'll try to make it. Good to see you, Per!
 
I spoke to the guy who wants my LD4B and is willing to trade me an AirGap for it. The AirGap is for Magnum heads so we talked a little about that. I decided I needed to lift my intake manifold and one of the heads to see what I've got.

Those of you who speak highly of the LD4B, take a look at this pic:
2016-05-01 18.01.50.jpg


Notice the difference in port shape and size?

The intake runners look like they are untouched, maybe with the exception of a slight chamfer right at the opening, more of a de-burring.

These are the pistons I have. They are Keith Black Lite of some sort. Can anyone ID them just from this pic?

2016-05-01 19.09.23.jpg


I did NOT set the piston exactly at TDC. I could only use the starter. Need to get a socket for the crank nut.

I noticed my cam lobes have a little something on them. Did I ruin it already?

2016-05-01 18.04.18.jpg
2016-05-01 18.04.52.jpg
2016-05-01 18.05.27.jpg
 
Hmmm! Couple of those cam lobes look pretty rough from what I can see on my phone
 
'fraid not.

The engine was completely dry when I got it. I did prime the oil pump but when I started it I didn't maintain an rpm over 2,000 like you're supposed to. I had enough trouble getting it to run at all.

What do you think? Wasted or salvageable? Polish it?
 

360DartGT66 said:
I could try tagging @krazykuda and see if he shows up.
Click to expand...

Did you ring???

I would do a compression test on it. do it dry, then wet with a couple squirts of oil in each cylinder and see if the numbers get any better. Then go from there...

Did you have a pressure gauge on it? What kind of oil pressure did it have when you had it running?
 
I don't have an oil pressure gauge, no. I guess I should just get a mechanical one. For testing.

I'm not sure I understand the reason to do a compression test? Are you thinking low oil pressure would have damaged the cylinder bores?

I have a pic of #8 cylinder. Looks very good to me. There's some coolant in there.

2016-05-01 19.09.38.jpg
 
looking at a few of your pics I can say this for sure - she probably isn't going run at peak performance... but, these engines are amazingly resilient.. I have a friend who took a TA340 that had been sitting for 5 years, squirted Marvel Mystery Oil in each cylinder and slowly (as in a little touch every day) turned the crank back and forth until he could get it to move freely - he then took the heads off and cleaned out the bores the best he could without taking the engine apart.. that thing was a beast!! He put it in a 72 Challenger - there were big blocks out there that couldn't touch him. ~ ya just never know...
 
Big day today. I followed - from memory - @krazykuda s excellent thread on compression calculation.

I only did one chamber on both block and head. Too lazy to be more thorough.

These are the numbers:
Head volume (measured): 70 cc
Cylinder volume (measured): 22.5 cc
distance in hole*: 2 mm

Gasket hole diameter: 104.6 mm
Gasket thickness: 0.98 mm

Cylinder diameter: 102.3 mm
Stroke**: 90.932 mm

Remove volume from piston in the hole: −16.4 cc
Actual volume in cylinder @ TDC:
Gasket hole volume: 8.4 cc

Total chamber volume @ TDC 84.5 cc
Total chamber volume @ BDC 831.9 cc

Compression ratio 9.85 :1

Very close to 10:1 which, according to local expertise, is the limit for Swedish unleaded pump gas @ 95 octane.

I'm happy with this! It's a lot better than I thought. Now all I need to do is GET THE THING RUNNING!!!

* With the domed KB pistons, I needed to cc the cylinder with the piston 2 mm below TDC. This means I got a volume LARGER than actual at TDC.
** Normal 360 stroke of 3.58", not measured.

2016-05-03 14.48.19.jpg
2016-05-03 12.43.22.jpg
2016-05-03 12.30.50.jpg
 
ScampMike said:
looking at a few of your pics I can say this for sure - she probably isn't going run at peak performance... but, these engines are amazingly resilient.. I have a friend who took a TA340 that had been sitting for 5 years, squirted Marvel Mystery Oil in each cylinder and slowly (as in a little touch every day) turned the crank back and forth until he could get it to move freely - he then took the heads off and cleaned out the bores the best he could without taking the engine apart.. that thing was a beast!! He put it in a 72 Challenger - there were big blocks out there that couldn't touch him. ~ ya just never know...
Click to expand...
Thanks for giving me hope!

I suppose you're referring to the pics of the cam?

Yeah, when I get it back together I'll try to do a delayed break-in with MoS2 grease on the lobes and perhaps some break-in oil. Maybe it'll smooth itself out.
 
yea - pretty much the cam - suspect at best - the lifters too I'm afraid.. it won't keep it from running of course but, I would keep a close eye on the oil - check for metal often - probably best to put a magnet on your oil filter and check via that instead of constantly draining the entire engine..
 
Thanks Karl. I actually got it to rinse out my nose. :D

I made my polycarbonate piece a little too narrow. As you can probably see, it just barely covers the chambers. I made the mistake to assume that the head bolt holes were symmetrically placed around the piston. As a result, the fill hole is off for the block.

It worked anyway, but I had to force the fluid in to fill the cylinder completely. This caused some leaking past the piston rings. Not much, probably a cc or so.
 
360DartGT66 said:
Thanks Karl. I actually got it to rinse out my nose. :D

I made my polycarbonate piece a little too narrow. As you can probably see, it just barely covers the chambers. I made the mistake to assume that the head bolt holes were symmetrically placed around the piston. As a result, the fill hole is off for the block.

It worked anyway, but I had to force the fluid in to fill the cylinder completely. This caused some leaking past the piston rings. Not much, probably a cc or so.
Click to expand...

Did you fill the ring gap with grease before adding the water to measure? It helps keep the leakage to a minimum...
 
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