66 valiant 170

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moparkrazed

moparkrazed

Moparkrazed
Joined
Oct 5, 2007
Messages
257
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66
Location
Columbia, South Carolina
Hey guys. Definitely enjoying leaning on the 66 valiant. I was able to decide the fender tag and vin and figured out I have a 170 with. A 903 three on the tree transmission. How do I tell if I have an original motor to the car? I can see the casting number and it goes a 1965 170 and the tab behind the alternator says 170. I’m wondering if my uncle swapped motors and out a 65 slant six in there or if it’s normal to have 65 motor in a 66 car (started building in 65 kind of deal). Hoping to do a master cylinder swap and replace all the lines then start doing some body and paint work. Considering putting a 225 in it, sounds like it will hook up and if I get a post 67 motor I’ll just need to swap out the fly wheel, oil pan and pick up ( possibly add a pilot bearing). I’d like to rebuild the 225 and hang onto the 170 because it’s a cool motor. If I missed anything or anyone has opinions feel free to chime in. I appreciate everyone’s feedback and look forward to learning more about the car.
 
moparkrazed said:
Hey guys. Definitely enjoying leaning on the 66 valiant. I was able to decide the fender tag and vin and figured out I have a 170 with. A 903 three on the tree transmission. How do I tell if I have an original motor to the car? I can see the casting number and it goes a 1965 170 and the tab behind the alternator says 170. I’m wondering if my uncle swapped motors and out a 65 slant six in there or if it’s normal to have 65 motor in a 66 car (started building in 65 kind of deal). Hoping to do a master cylinder swap and replace all the lines then start doing some body and paint work. Considering putting a 225 in it, sounds like it will hook up and if I get a post 67 motor I’ll just need to swap out the fly wheel, oil pan and pick up ( possibly add a pilot bearing). I’d like to rebuild the 225 and hang onto the 170 because it’s a cool motor. If I missed anything or anyone has opinions feel free to chime in. I appreciate everyone’s feedback and look forward to learning more about the car.
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Edit* I noticed a tab under the #1 plug and it says B 170 0119. I’m assuming the last 4 should be the same as the last 4 of my vin?
 
Probably original. I'd keep the 170, less torque but revs higher. Lots of easy cheap ways to hop it up. I loved mine.
 
66fs said:
Probably original. I'd keep the 170, less torque but revs higher. Lots of easy cheap ways to hop it up. I loved mine.
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Thanks 66fs, still learning thanks and outs. Someone on here on a said they loved their 170 as well. May just keep it and rebuild it. It’s a cool car. Apparently my uncle screwed in tin for floor pans, so I’m adding that to the list of things to wield up (if I can find replacements). Thanks again for the input on the 170.
 
toolmanmike said:
@RustyRatRod and @memike 170's are calling you 2. LOL
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Haha I’ve read some of rustyratrods posts he really knows what he’s doing. He reminds me a lot of my uncle (before he passed) he loved his 65-66 valiants and had a 6 barracuda formula s that is somewhere in Brooklet, Ga. he sold it to someone and said it’s just sat. I’d like to find it again one day.
 
If you decide to get a 225 core and rebuild it, I'd stick with the '67 and older one. All of those have forged cranks. I'd try to find one that has been machined for the pilot bushing too. Some did, some didn't. All the manual trans applications did and most automatics didn't, but, some automatics had one too. Whatever was on the shelf at the time I guess! You can make a bushing for the unfinished crank or have it machined, but, that's just an added cost to avoid if possible. If you get a complete '66 and older engine, you also get the benefit of extra parts that will fit your car too......pan, mounts, brackets, carb, etc. It shouldn't be too hard to find one. Lots of V8 transplants out there with an extra /6 getting in the way under the work bench.
 
cudamark said:
If you decide to get a 225 core and rebuild it, I'd stick with the '67 and older one. All of those have forged cranks. I'd try to find one that has been machined for the pilot bushing too. Some did, some didn't. All the manual trans applications did and most automatics didn't, but, some automatics had one too. Whatever was on the shelf at the time I guess! You can make a bushing for the unfinished crank or have it machined, but, that's just an added cost to avoid if possible. If you get a complete '66 and older engine, you also get the benefit of extra parts that will fit your car too......pan, mounts, brackets, carb, etc. It shouldn't be too hard to find one. Lots of V8 transplants out there with an extra /6 getting in the way under the work bench.
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Thanks cudamark. That makes sense if I go that way. I can’t find anything online for a rebuild kit for a 170. Does the 170 and 225 share a rebuild kit? Kind of on the fence between getting a 225 and rebuilding
The 170.
 
Bearings and gaskets are the same. Assuming your crank, rods, and push rods usable/machinable, the main thing you'll need to find will be the pistons and rings. Everything else is pretty much the same as the 225 that year.
 
moparkrazed said:
Edit* I noticed a tab under the #1 plug and it says B 170 0119. I’m assuming the last 4 should be the same as the last 4 of my vin?
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The B in the pad means it is a 66 motor , A is 65. As for the numbers matching the vin, I doubt the factory worried about that at all.They used what was available . Generally if it's within 3 months of the build date it's what it came with.
 
valiantwagonguy said:
The B in the pad means it is a 66 motor , A is 65. As for the numbers matching the vin, I doubt the factory worried about that at all.They used what was available . Generally if it's within 3 months of the build date it's what it came with.
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Ok cool. The car was build February (11th I think) so about a month difference. That’s pretty cool how they did things back then. Thanks for the info valiantwagonguy.
 
cudamark said:
Bearings and gaskets are the same. Assuming your crank, rods, and push rods usable/machinable, the main thing you'll need to find will be the pistons and rings. Everything else is pretty much the same as the 225 that year.
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Ok awesome. Thanks again cudamark. I really appreciate the info.
 
RustyRatRod said:
I love mine. Although I'm gettin ready for the 225 swap, I'm keeping all of the original drive train. If there's something I don't like about the 225, 170's goin back in. lol
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I’m having a hard time finding a rebuild kit for mine. Think I should do the 225 swap? Seems like rebuild kits are pretty plentiful with those. If I can 64-66 that would be ideal but outside of oil pan, pick up, mounts, flywheel anything else I should consider? Oh and head pipe for exhaust.
 
cosgig said:
Let’s see this little gem of yours. Where can pictures be found?
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I’ve only had it for two weeks. Inherited it from my uncle. Going back next weekend to get a 1/2 of a parts car.

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cosgig said:
Let’s see this little gem of yours. Where can pictures be found?
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I’ve only had it for two weeks. Inherited it from my uncle.
cosgig said:
Let’s see this little gem of yours. Where can pictures be found?
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Just posted some after I washed it (turned at least 15 shades whiter). Good looking barracuda you have. My uncle had a formula s 66. That was a fun car.
 
moparkrazed said:
I’m having a hard time finding a rebuild kit for mine. Think I should do the 225 swap? Seems like rebuild kits are pretty plentiful with those. If I can 64-66 that would be ideal but outside of oil pan, pick up, mounts, flywheel anything else I should consider? Oh and head pipe for exhaust.
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All those parts will swap over from your 170 if you use the early 225 crank.
 
moparkrazed said:
I’m having a hard time finding a rebuild kit for mine. Think I should do the 225 swap? Seems like rebuild kits are pretty plentiful with those. If I can 64-66 that would be ideal but outside of oil pan, pick up, mounts, flywheel anything else I should consider? Oh and head pipe for exhaust.
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They take the same kit......although I never buy a kit. I piece all of my rebuild parts together so I can buy the brands I want. Buying someone else's kit means you're at the mercy of someone else providing parts based on the cheapest parts they can find for the most profit. No thanks.
 
cudamark said:
All those parts will swap over from your 170 if you use the early 225 crank.
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Awesome! I’ll have to me a lookout for something close to me. There is plenty of work to do before I get to motor. Did some hammer and dolly work to get things close but I still need to weird on floors, fox roof dents, possibly replace trunk floor, patch the passenger door, then we might be getting close to looking at the motor lol.
 
RustyRatRod said:
They take the same kit......although I never buy a kit. I piece all of my rebuild parts together so I can buy the brands I want. Buying someone else's kit means you're at the mercy of someone else providing parts based on the cheapest parts they can find for the most profit. No thanks.
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Now that you said that I remember you posting that in another post ( read too many the past few days to remember which one). Definitely sounds like putting my own kit together is the way to go. I’d rather buy good stuff and do it one time than redo it and “save” a few bucks right now. Thanks again rustyratrod.
 
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