66 Valiant brakes?

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Moparjake

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Hey guys,

Im in the process of getting my Slooooow resto going and really would like to be able to drive my car this winter. I was able to sort out the motor and carb issues i was having and have now moved onto the brakes(should be the last thing). I have already rebuilt all four drums with new hardware, shoes and drums. However im still not getting any pressure as all 4 wheel cylinders and the master cylinder are leaking...LOL I am planning to do a power front disc swap down the road from a later model A-body. However, my "to get me by" plan was to go ahead and get a master cylinder from a later model, plug one of the ports and run my drums off it(my current master only has the one line). Then down the road when i get the cash id just gather the rest of the parts to make the swap...lines, spindles, booster, ect.

Does this sound feasible to you guys? As in would i be able to bolt up a later year "2 outlet" master? Will i need special bracketry? What years or part number would i be looking for? Thanks!!!

-Jake
 
If you are going to use the 2 res. master why not split the lines and use both from the start.
 
I didn't even think of that. Wouldnt be too hard to bend up another set of lines and snag a proportioning valve. My main concern now would be linkage and I suppose weather or not a later year two res master cylinder will bolt up?
 
Any word on possible part #'s or years i should look at for the dual res master cylinder? Also, would it be possible to see a pic or two of the routing of the second line and placement of the proportioning vlave for anybody who has done this swap? or even the routing of the lines and such on a 67 and later car?

Thanks again guys.

-Jake
 
I didn't even think of that. Wouldnt be too hard to bend up another set of lines and snag a proportioning valve. My main concern now would be linkage and I suppose weather or not a later year two res master cylinder will bolt up?


If you currently have all drums on your stock '66 setup, the single line from the master cylinder currently goes to a splitter block, which routes the fluid three ways:
1) to the rear (another splitter block on the rear axle)
2) to the left front
3) to the right front.

When you install your "stop gap" dual chamber master clinder setup, simply:
1) Hook up the existing brake line to the master cylinder
2) Disconnect the line to the rear brakes at the splitter block
3) Put a plug in the splitter block.
4) Run a new line from the master cylinder to the rear line.

So all you need is a plug and a single length of of brake line to make the swap to a 1967-up dual cylinder. No proportioning valve needed for an all-drums setup.

Diagrams here:
http://www.earlycuda.org/tech/dualmaster.htm
 
If you currently have all drums on your stock '66 setup, the single line from the master cylinder currently goes to a splitter block, which routes the fluid three ways:
1) to the rear (another splitter block on the rear axle)
2) to the left front
3) to the right front.

When you install your "stop gap" dual chamber master clinder setup, simply:
1) Hook up the existing brake line to the master cylinder
2) Disconnect the line to the rear brakes at the splitter block
3) Put a plug in the splitter block.
4) Run a new line from the master cylinder to the rear line.

So all you need is a plug and a single length of of brake line to make the swap to a 1967-up dual cylinder. No proportioning valve needed for an all-drums setup.

Diagrams here:
http://www.earlycuda.org/tech/dualmaster.htm

Thank you for the link and info
 
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