'66 Valiant restoration general help

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Argometer

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Hi...

I purchased a '66 Valiant Signet beck in '06 with the idea of doing a V-8 conversion. I am finally ready to begin (in other words, I have gotten a few bucks together). The car is a two tone tan with silver rocker panels, two door hardtop with bucket seats, manual steering and a slant 6. The body is in pretty good shape, and except for the front seats, the interior is pretty nice also. By the way, it is a black interior.

I already have an 8 3/4 3.55 limited slip rear end out of a '66 Baracuda. I have a 360 block out of a '76 Cordoba and a small block 727 that needs to be rebuilt. I have a floor shift and console out of a '69 Dart...even though it seems strange, I was told it would be a good fit. I have a floor shift, manual steering steering column for the car. And finally, I have a set of stock exhaust manifolds out of a '64 Dart with a 273 in it. I don't thik I'm ready to tackle the expense and possible hassles of instaling an engine with headers or working on an engine with headers

Is there any way to update to disk brakes and still retain the small bolt pattern (it may seem strange, but I REALLY want to keep the small bolt pattern). I am looking into radiators and into having a set of leaf springs made for the car. I'm really worried about being able to get the rear wheels to stay on the road. I am also hoping to do a stroker conversion on the 360. I will probably need to go to the engine section, but I will be looking for recommendations on buying a crank kit. I would also like to buy a set of .202 aluminum heads or a set of "X" heads for a 340. (That should work shouldn't it?) Again, I f I could get a set fo "X" heads, I would sacrifice the weight to keep the old school apppearance.

Anyways, I am generally looking for advice, common pitfalls to watch for and shortcuts to avoid. This will be the first A-Body I've really worked with, although I have owned a '69 Dart GT that had been converted to a 340 car and a '70 Duster that had been converted to a 318. I really miss having a small block A-Body and am pretty jazzed about this project.

Thanks for your patience with me, your advice and your guidance as I go along!

Steve
 
I have not done the six to eight swap myself but others here have. You do NOT need to change the k-member but do need the V-8 mounts and center steering link. A V-8 radiator is required and also front torsion bars to support the increased weight of the V-8 is probably a good idea too. The small bolt pattern Kelsey-Hayes disc brakes are available. I like the idea of aluminum heads just paint them red like an original engine or paint them with "cast iron" spray paint.
 
I'm not the smartest gearhead on this website, put I think putting those 273 manifolds on the 360 will be counterproductive. Considering all the other things you're planning, a set of Spitfire headers (that will run you about $250 plus or minus) won't be the hassle you envision, and will look and perform a lot better.

Check out the threads on the website where guys have installed them - they'll be quite helpful should you go that route....... Anyway, you'll probably get a lot of responses to your thread, and some may mention the Spitfires. The contact info for the guy who makes them is:

Johnson, Harold
Rudy, Arkansas
Bus: (479) 650-9989
E-mail: [email protected]

I had a good experience dealing with Harold, and he makes a good product. I've had mine about a year (?) and hope to get 'em installed this summer.
 
skip the expensive of the aluminum heads if using stock exhaust manifolds. look for Kelsey Hayes SB disk setup and change rear brakes over to 10 inch
 
Argometer said:
Hi...

I purchased a '66 Valiant Signet beck in '06 with the idea of doing a V-8 conversion. I am finally ready to begin (in other words, I have gotten a few bucks together). The car is a two tone tan with silver rocker panels, two door hardtop with bucket seats, manual steering and a slant 6. The body is in pretty good shape, and except for the front seats, the interior is pretty nice also. By the way, it is a black interior.

I already have an 8 3/4 3.55 limited slip rear end out of a '66 Baracuda. I have a 360 block out of a '76 Cordoba and a small block 727 that needs to be rebuilt. I have a floor shift and console out of a '69 Dart...even though it seems strange, I was told it would be a good fit. I have a floor shift, manual steering steering column for the car. And finally, I have a set of stock exhaust manifolds out of a '64 Dart with a 273 in it. I don't thik I'm ready to tackle the expense and possible hassles of instaling an engine with headers or working on an engine with headers

Is there any way to update to disk brakes and still retain the small bolt pattern (it may seem strange, but I REALLY want to keep the small bolt pattern). I am looking into radiators and into having a set of leaf springs made for the car. I'm really worried about being able to get the rear wheels to stay on the road. I am also hoping to do a stroker conversion on the 360. I will probably need to go to the engine section, but I will be looking for recommendations on buying a crank kit. I would also like to buy a set of .202 aluminum heads or a set of "X" heads for a 340. (That should work shouldn't it?) Again, I f I could get a set fo "X" heads, I would sacrifice the weight to keep the old school apppearance.

Anyways, I am generally looking for advice, common pitfalls to watch for and shortcuts to avoid. This will be the first A-Body I've really worked with, although I have owned a '69 Dart GT that had been converted to a 340 car and a '70 Duster that had been converted to a 318. I really miss having a small block A-Body and am pretty jazzed about this project.

Thanks for your patience with me, your advice and your guidance as I go along!

Steve
Click to expand...

Sounds great. My advice isn't worth much but here goes.
1.) Trade the '69 console for an actual early A-body piece, and get the bracket that goes between the seats, and the bracket for up front. The later consoles are slightly different as they just shoot a screw through the console into slots in the bracket...the early units use little bolts that goes into a captive nut that clips into the bracket. This way you will get a correct early chrome knob. I just sold the entire thing from a '66 for 200 bucks.

2.) Don't worry about the exhaust manifolds on the 360 right away...I have a good friend who has a BUILT 360 with 273 exhaust manifolds...He still hasn't got around to headers! It goes pretty well considering. You can worry about headers later.

3.) Get a set of Kelsey-Hayes discs, and have a set of 15 inch wheels made using your existing SBP centers put into new hoops.

4.) Forget about having leaf springs made. Re-arch an old pair of v8 springs or buy HD ones new.

5.) Don't worry about keeping the rear wheels on the road until you get the stroker together, and put in headers. Either way the previously mentioned springs will handle it.

6.) Leave the X heads to the '68/'69 guys. Go aluminum. I have a fantastic set of X heads on my Demon, but I've owned them forever...If I were you I'd go aluminum with paint. File off any cast logos or whatever you don't like.

Just have fun, that is what early cars are all about.
 
well said Outsider especially the part about Having fun is what the early cars are all about. How very true, I love em'!
 
Me too. My car will never be anywhere near stock. And thats fine. I love it. And I like to try new things. I didn't realize you could use the small bolt pattern centers and just have them re-fit into new hoops???? Who does that????
 
Thanks for all of the advice. Getting this kind of positive feedback is making me feel much more comfortable about starting the project! For the front sway bar and center steering link am I going junk yard and e-bay or does someone manufacture them aftermarket? With the Kelsey Hayes disks, do you have to go 15" or was that just a style recommendation? I was kind of hoping to be able to use my 14" slot mags...mostly for the "old school look", but I can definitely have 15" wheels made if necessary.

Steve
 
Argometer said:
Thanks for all of the advice. Getting this kind of positive feedback is making me feel much more comfortable about starting the project! For the front sway bar and center steering link am I going junk yard and e-bay or does someone manufacture them aftermarket? With the Kelsey Hayes disks, do you have to go 15" or was that just a style recommendation? I was kind of hoping to be able to use my 14" slot mags...mostly for the "old school look", but I can definitely have 15" wheels made if necessary.

Steve
Click to expand...

By all means use the 14 inch slots. I love that look. On the street 14"s will go stoplight to stoplight just as well as 15"s. Your swaybar will most likely be aftermarket. Early A factory swaybars are in demand even though they are a bit small.
 
65barracudadude said:
Me too. My car will never be anywhere near stock. And thats fine. I love it. And I like to try new things. I didn't realize you could use the small bolt pattern centers and just have them re-fit into new hoops???? Who does that????
Click to expand...
Many people will re-hoop your wheels. I am having the front Cragar drag skinnies on my dart cut, out replated and put back into new hoops. That way I get to keep my correct date codes. Both my Cragar S/S, and my Cragar Superticks came off well known Superstock Hemi cars...you don't just toss that kind of history into the garbage if they start to peel a bit. Not that the aluminum Supertricks are peeling...they are nice and minty. :toothy10:
 
I used 360/340 exhaust manifolds in my '65 360 converted from a slant 6 motor. The pass side manifold was shaped like the 65 273 and fit nicely; the driver side had the same basic shape as the 65 273 manifold but the outlet was faced more forward. Both had larger ports and outlets. I had duel exhaust instaled $$ and liked the results.
I used an A body 8 3/4 and a 65 904 auto with a shift kit in the valve body and had no problems.
 
A 904 trans will fit better in the trans tunnel than a 727. I used a throttle cable from a 73 Dart V-8 and pedal as well. I fabbed a bracket to mount the pedal in the 66.
 
Outsider said:
Many people will re-hoop your wheels. I am having the front Cragar drag skinnies on my dart cut, out replated and put back into new hoops. That way I get to keep my correct date codes. Both my Cragar S/S, and my Cragar Superticks came off well known Superstock Hemi cars...you don't just toss that kind of history into the garbage if they start to peel a bit. Not that the aluminum Supertricks are peeling...they are nice and minty. :toothy10:
Click to expand...

Who's doing your wheels?
 
66dartman said:
A 904 trans will fit better in the trans tunnel than a 727. I used a throttle cable from a 73 Dart V-8 and pedal as well. I fabbed a bracket to mount the pedal in the 66.
Click to expand...
I used a 72 Duster gas peddle and cable also and made my own t.cable holddown bracket,now I have to figure out kickdown.It,s a 66 Dart 225 6 cyl.904 auto.It had the lokar gas peddle and cables,but wasn,t installed properly by the PO and I didn,t like the peddle setup.Any suggestions on kickdown.PM me if any advise.Thanks.My car has a 4bbl. and headders with duals
 
Hey Ken,
Thanks for the rad info. I have the suicidle 9" drums all around on my '65. (former six cylinder car)Will the SSBrake coversion fit the 9" brake spindles?
 
I put a Lokar kickdown cable on my Dart - by attaching the cable to the gas pedal, which I scavenged out of an Aspen. Now there's a guy making a cheaper kickdown cable setup; I think it uses some Dakota parts but I can't remember his name.
 
Rcuda2 said:
I used 360/340 exhaust manifolds in my '65 360 converted from a slant 6 motor. The pass side manifold was shaped like the 65 273 and fit nicely; the driver side had the same basic shape as the 65 273 manifold but the outlet was faced more forward. Both had larger ports and outlets. I had duel exhaust instaled $$ and liked the results.
I used an A body 8 3/4 and a 65 904 auto with a shift kit in the valve body and had no problems.
Click to expand...
 
I'm installing a 1974 340 in my 64 cuda 273 auto. With an upgraded borgeson steering box. Do you know the year 340 360 cast exhaust manifolds u used
 
By 66 I think the center link is the same for both 6 and 8 cylinder engines a quick look under the car will confirm that, the slant link is straight and the V8 one has the dip to clear the pan.
 
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