I tried pulling......really really hard....and nothing....
67 A/C heater box rebuild and install help
- Thread starter 4spdragtop
- Start date
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I tried pulling......really really hard....and nothing....
txstang84
Well-Known Member
Might have to shoot some kind of cleaner in the evap core fins. Mine was pretty crudded up with white powdery corrosion. Do you have a compressor with an airgun? When mine came apart there was so much flaky **** in there I needed glasses and a facemask.
That's the only way you'll be able to get the evap core out is to remove that probe....unless you cut a channel to the nearest edge and extract the top cover and core as a unit...and that's not exactly what I'd refer to as a good idea.
That's the only way you'll be able to get the evap core out is to remove that probe....unless you cut a channel to the nearest edge and extract the top cover and core as a unit...and that's not exactly what I'd refer to as a good idea.
I shot some PB blaster in there and no go. Im thinking I will leave it and pressure test the evap with a garden hose and cap the one end. I bought pipe thread fittings, but they dont seem to fit. Anyone know what type of fittings those are?? Here is a pic of the galvanized sandblasted, painted and new insulation and foam gasket from Detroit Muscle Technoligies.
You really dont want to use water. There is a special product used for flushing a/c coils.
Consider this... When the gas leaks it takes some oil out with it. Thus an accumulation of dust and dirt apears. Most leaks are in the high pressure side of the system , i.e. condesor, compressor, hoses, and even more often in the fittings.
Bottom line, If that vaporator coil is clean and dry its probably fine.
If it has a oily nasty area, replace it.
Consider this... When the gas leaks it takes some oil out with it. Thus an accumulation of dust and dirt apears. Most leaks are in the high pressure side of the system , i.e. condesor, compressor, hoses, and even more often in the fittings.
Bottom line, If that vaporator coil is clean and dry its probably fine.
If it has a oily nasty area, replace it.
Hey Red, other then leaves(and not many of those) it is clean and dry. Even the insulation is still good behind the evap. Guess I will start putting it back together.
So dad and I are almost done with the ac box and heater box. There was a few places in the fiberglass boxes that needed repair.There was a hole in the bottom of the pass side fresh air box(very common). And then there were 2 places where the clips that hold the 2 halves together that was broken. I bought a roll of "tech steel" and the stuff worked great! Here is the link
https://www.acklandsgrainger.com/AG...balProductDetailDisplay.do?item_code=NLS16002
I didnt replace every gasket or insulation that was in the kit as I didnt want to risk damaging the evaporator and it didnt look that bad other than a few leaves in there.
The new heater core wasnt 100% accurate on fit, so it required enlarging the 4 screw/mount holes a little bit, as well as the small steel plate with the 2 holes for the inlet/outlet required enlarging the holes a little bit. No big deal.
Once we repaired the 2 damaged spots where the clips holding the 2 halves go, we were ready to put the halves together. Considering there is 11 clips holding the box halves together and how hard it is to put them on, what we did was reduce the tension on them. I simply tapped them a little bit with a hammer so it "opened" them up some, it made them much easier to put on. Where we repaired the 2 areas with the "tech steel" we didnt bother to put the clips on, we didnt want to risk breaking the repairs, plus we figured having 9 out of 11 clips would be good enough.
Sorry for not taking more pics, I did take a few but they turned out lousy and wouldnt be much help.
I have a question though, we are looking at the 2 boxes and considering they are only held together by 1 bolt/mount plate in the middle, can these 2 boxes be installed seperately?? Or do we have to bolt the monster together and then wrestle with it??
Thanks
4spdragtop and ragtops Pop
https://www.acklandsgrainger.com/AG...balProductDetailDisplay.do?item_code=NLS16002
I didnt replace every gasket or insulation that was in the kit as I didnt want to risk damaging the evaporator and it didnt look that bad other than a few leaves in there.
The new heater core wasnt 100% accurate on fit, so it required enlarging the 4 screw/mount holes a little bit, as well as the small steel plate with the 2 holes for the inlet/outlet required enlarging the holes a little bit. No big deal.
Once we repaired the 2 damaged spots where the clips holding the 2 halves go, we were ready to put the halves together. Considering there is 11 clips holding the box halves together and how hard it is to put them on, what we did was reduce the tension on them. I simply tapped them a little bit with a hammer so it "opened" them up some, it made them much easier to put on. Where we repaired the 2 areas with the "tech steel" we didnt bother to put the clips on, we didnt want to risk breaking the repairs, plus we figured having 9 out of 11 clips would be good enough.
Sorry for not taking more pics, I did take a few but they turned out lousy and wouldnt be much help.
I have a question though, we are looking at the 2 boxes and considering they are only held together by 1 bolt/mount plate in the middle, can these 2 boxes be installed seperately?? Or do we have to bolt the monster together and then wrestle with it??
Thanks
4spdragtop and ragtops Pop
Rocky_JS
'cuda
Steve,
I have another box from my car original owner decided to "add" a/c to it although it didn't come with it. all factory pieces and unfortunately the not so unsightly holes in my firewall.
if you need some pieces let me know I have almost the whole assy from compressor to vents.
also, seal off and cap all lines as you clean them out to avoid any further contamination. before charging - putting a good vacuum on that thing before charging is imperative. no less than 30in vac to boil out any moisture and I would hold that constant vac for several hours.
I have another box from my car original owner decided to "add" a/c to it although it didn't come with it. all factory pieces and unfortunately the not so unsightly holes in my firewall.
if you need some pieces let me know I have almost the whole assy from compressor to vents.
also, seal off and cap all lines as you clean them out to avoid any further contamination. before charging - putting a good vacuum on that thing before charging is imperative. no less than 30in vac to boil out any moisture and I would hold that constant vac for several hours.
Rocky_JS
'cuda
I took mine out separately, no reason you couldn't put them back the same way. hella easier to maneuver the box around in tight quarters.
Hey Rocky, Im hoping the boxes can go in seperately....the ac part is pretty heavy! Did you see the one in this thread??
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=194560
Thanks for the offer, although I think we are fairly complete for pieces, we havent even started under the hood yet. The alternator is a single pulley, we would need a double correct?? Dont know whether we are going to hook it up for this season or not as it will take up a fair bit of room under the hood. We wanted to get inside the passenger compartment complete....almost there...This way "if" there's any tinkering to be done under the hood it will be a lot easier. Work the kinks outta that and worry bout running the ac next season?? Kinda weird dads car was an ordered car, and then after the owner had the dealership install a factory correct rear defogger in it. Dad has the am/fm radio in getting fixed at an old school elec place up here, the guy still has parts for it, so I might just drop in and see what else he has....
Thanks for the parts offer, ya may just be getting a call from me:glasses7:
Oh I found a place that will convert over to proper refrigerant to for only a couple hundred bucks, so hopefully no leaks etc when the time comes to hook up. Good points on prepping the system too thanks!! :thumbrig:
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=194560
Thanks for the offer, although I think we are fairly complete for pieces, we havent even started under the hood yet. The alternator is a single pulley, we would need a double correct?? Dont know whether we are going to hook it up for this season or not as it will take up a fair bit of room under the hood. We wanted to get inside the passenger compartment complete....almost there...This way "if" there's any tinkering to be done under the hood it will be a lot easier. Work the kinks outta that and worry bout running the ac next season?? Kinda weird dads car was an ordered car, and then after the owner had the dealership install a factory correct rear defogger in it. Dad has the am/fm radio in getting fixed at an old school elec place up here, the guy still has parts for it, so I might just drop in and see what else he has....
Thanks for the parts offer, ya may just be getting a call from me:glasses7:
Oh I found a place that will convert over to proper refrigerant to for only a couple hundred bucks, so hopefully no leaks etc when the time comes to hook up. Good points on prepping the system too thanks!! :thumbrig:
Rocky_JS
'cuda
yeah Brother, it is a double pulley system, but you can change the alt pulley w/o changing the alt. lemme know!
Yeah there is an unused sheave on the crank pulley, so Im assuming the ac belt runs from compressor-alt-crank...I havent checked the diagram out though..
Thanks again guys!
Thanks again guys!
Almost done with the ac, but Im thinking the hook to hook fresh air box to the cowl is the wrong one. We got it with the car and knowing the prev owner I would say its the correct one, but take a look at the pics. There is a gap of at least 1" that cant be taken up as the bolt that goes under the bottom of the box is threaded in all the way. I measured inside the box from the top of the seal to the bottom inside the box and its 10", but the rod length is 11"...what gives?? I know we could just cut the rod at the top an rebend it, but I dont wanna do something to bugger it up....any ideas??
Thanks
4spdragtop
Thanks
4spdragtop
Any ideas??
Looks like you have the correct foam seal there ? Its not really a weather tight seal. It should fill the void though.
That rod has a predertmined length and thread length so you cant over tighten the nut right through the bottom of the box.
I suppose you could add a couple of flat washers underneath the box.Then again that how they get broken.
Can you feel the raised rim around the cowl opening and where the rod hooks ?
Is it rusted away ?
That rod has a predertmined length and thread length so you cant over tighten the nut right through the bottom of the box.
I suppose you could add a couple of flat washers underneath the box.Then again that how they get broken.
Can you feel the raised rim around the cowl opening and where the rod hooks ?
Is it rusted away ?
Hey Ben, the lip on the cowl is approx 3/4-1" and its solid as a rock...California car.Putting washers underneath the box wont help as that reduces the usable threads on the rod...maybe we will just cut and re-bend the rod....
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Ok dumbass here, there is actually another lip up higher...Look way up and Ill call Rusty(The Friendly Giant) that it hooked onto...up n snug now!
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