Looks like one of the damaged is the yellow wire - cavity L - for the starter relay and the other may be the brown Accessories wire. A little detective work as you go along may point to why these two and any others got overheated like that..
67 Barracuda Dash harness install
- Thread starter bmoparmofo
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bmoparmofo
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I wasn't quite sure which ones were for what in the bulkhead it looks like on the outside of the bulkhead in the engine compartment there are some that are burned up in a different location
bmoparmofo
Well-Known Member
Here is some of the insanity that was going on under the hood so it's hard to say what caused what? Miraculously the car started ran and drove and everything worked. I'm not sure if they jumped power around to get things to work but I can't believe that everything would work with that burned up bulkhead? I'm debating on sending the instrument cluster out to get looked at Maybe have them do the modification for the ammeter? Not sure if it's worth it? The only problem the car had is that it was not charging as far as things working properly.
That negative battery clamp is in the right spot......unhooked lol.
Lotsa help here if you are willing to attempt it?? Do a search on here and Google. Some self ejumihcating, electrical is hard to help people over the net.
Lotsa good advice in this thread so far.
Good luck
Lotsa help here if you are willing to attempt it?? Do a search on here and Google. Some self ejumihcating, electrical is hard to help people over the net.
Lotsa good advice in this thread so far.
Good luck
Not as hard to figure out as it looks at first glance. You just have to look at it as a puzzle. The wiring diagrams are the crib sheets. The terminal cavities and wire colors are the reference points. Each had a function, which is shown in the wiring diagrams.
The box on the inner fender with the big plug is not from '67. Its a Chrysler made electronic control unit (ECU) that someone installed. The wire colors on the ECU harness can be found in the old Direct Connection/Mopar Performance bulletins, copies of the instruction sheets and some other places. Folks here can help you get copies of those. Adding a Chrysler ECU plug to a '67 should not have have caused any electrical problems. I had one on my '67s original harness.
Wires through a hole in the firewall are part of some jerry rigging. Without a grommet, that will be a problem sooner or later.
Those crimp connectors are an OK method of joining wires if the crimp is good.
As far as what happened, its not neccessary to reconstruct the failure scenarios completely. But it is helpful to figure out what circuits were overloaded.
Whatever happened went down in one of two ways. Either a problem occured and someone made modifications, or someone made modifications and problems occured, which were then fixed with a little jerry rigging.
The bulkhead connector shows damage on P and a lesser amount on Z.
P carries the power from the alternator.
One thing to keep in mind is electricity flows from the highest voltage source. That's normally the alternator. You'll notice when the engine is running the system voltage is around 14 Volts. When its not running, or the alternator can't produce enough power for whatever reason, then the battery becomes the highest voltage source and system voltage drops to around 12.5 Volts.
When the ammeter is correctly hooked up, it shows whether the battery is discharging or charging. When you take the instrument panel out, if there was overheating on any of the wires to the headlight switch, ignition switch or ammeter, you'll see the evidence. At this point there is no reason to rush anything off for overhaul. Considering your location, overheating at the bulkhead and other connections simply due to oxidation, corrosion from water, salt, and things getting shaken around on the roads for 40 years is a reasonable possibility. Take the harness(es) off, see what you find and start pricing out reproduction wire harnesses.
^^^^^what he said^^^^^^
bmoparmofo
Well-Known Member
Thanks trying to start on it today the weather is not really cooperating raining on and off here a couple quick questions trying to remove the headlight switch knob also the trip odometer knob also why does it seem like the heater controls are trying to come with the bezel on removal is there something holding them in I removed the knobs shouldn't it just slide through the bezel?
bmoparmofo
Well-Known Member
bmoparmofo
Well-Known Member
It actually feels like the cluster itself is trying to come out with the bezel?
I believe heater controls are attached. Gimme a few I'll get pics
My recollection is the heater controls may have a set screw underneath each knob. The instruments themsleves are attached to the chromed plastic panel.
Disconnect the speedometer cable from underneath. If you can take off the headlight connector, great. Otherwise the recommendation in the '68 manual is remove the head light control switch knob and step, then the retaining nut. (this is not fun - to remove the knob and stem, there is a little metal release button on the switch itself. ) If I can find my crib notes from when I removed the instrement panel in my '67 Barracuda, I'll post anything additional that seems useful.
Send me an email (use PM or my e-mail under profile if it lets you) and I'll send you the pages from the '67 Supplement but they are not a lot of help here. '68 Shop manual is a bit better for this.
Disconnect the speedometer cable from underneath. If you can take off the headlight connector, great. Otherwise the recommendation in the '68 manual is remove the head light control switch knob and step, then the retaining nut. (this is not fun - to remove the knob and stem, there is a little metal release button on the switch itself. ) If I can find my crib notes from when I removed the instrement panel in my '67 Barracuda, I'll post anything additional that seems useful.
Send me an email (use PM or my e-mail under profile if it lets you) and I'll send you the pages from the '67 Supplement but they are not a lot of help here. '68 Shop manual is a bit better for this.
Heater knobs: have a 5/32" allen hex set screw undeneath.
I did not have the '68 service manual or the '67 Barracuda supplement when I did this. I might have had the 67 manual - can't recall.
Shop manual recommends protecting top of steering column. Seems like good idea.
I found it helpful to remove the column's plastic bezel (4 screws) and loosen the 3 nuts that hold the column under the dash.
Disconnect speedometer cable. '67 used a threaded cable housing nut.
'68 manual suggests removeing the headlight switch after partially removing the panel. Might be the better way to do it.
What i did was remove the headlight switch, wiper and radio knobs. Then the nuts that hold each of them to the instrument panel. (needle nose pliers, spanner wrench, or make your own special tool. For radio 5/8 deep socket). Flasher switch in up, I used needle nose pliers to loosen.
There were some ground wires to disconnect.
After removing the 7 phillips drive screws holding the panel,I disconnected the sending unit and radio wires and other wires.
I also removed the heater cable controls. Again - not sure this is the best sequence - I was working with at best the '67 FSM's gudance for a Valiant.
For some reason I had to remove at least one heater duct, but this might have been to gain access to the speaker - which needed to be repaired or replaced.
I did not have the '68 service manual or the '67 Barracuda supplement when I did this. I might have had the 67 manual - can't recall.
Shop manual recommends protecting top of steering column. Seems like good idea.
I found it helpful to remove the column's plastic bezel (4 screws) and loosen the 3 nuts that hold the column under the dash.
Disconnect speedometer cable. '67 used a threaded cable housing nut.
'68 manual suggests removeing the headlight switch after partially removing the panel. Might be the better way to do it.
What i did was remove the headlight switch, wiper and radio knobs. Then the nuts that hold each of them to the instrument panel. (needle nose pliers, spanner wrench, or make your own special tool. For radio 5/8 deep socket). Flasher switch in up, I used needle nose pliers to loosen.
There were some ground wires to disconnect.
After removing the 7 phillips drive screws holding the panel,I disconnected the sending unit and radio wires and other wires.
I also removed the heater cable controls. Again - not sure this is the best sequence - I was working with at best the '67 FSM's gudance for a Valiant.
For some reason I had to remove at least one heater duct, but this might have been to gain access to the speaker - which needed to be repaired or replaced.
Here is pic of my 69 bezel it is similar to 67.
Looks like 2 bolts go thru pot metal housing would also hold heater controls?
Also see empty hole, it is threaded so it could be for radio support or heater controls. Hope it helps.
Looks like 2 bolts go thru pot metal housing would also hold heater controls?
Also see empty hole, it is threaded so it could be for radio support or heater controls. Hope it helps.
bmoparmofo
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the help I appreciate it I did take the set knobs off with the Allen wrench I'll have to look further and see it feels like something's holding it in there but I don't see anything from the front. I took the knob off for the wipers and also got the wiper switch pushed back. Okay good to know I did not know they were going to come out together I thought the bezel would come out and then I'd have to remove something else to get the cluster.. hopefully no rain tomorrow so I can get some more done on it.
bmoparmofo
Well-Known Member
I did pick one up off of eBay but it did not fit so I'm going old school with it
Wagon of Death
Aussie Barracuda Fisherman
I can confirm that the heater slide assembly is bolted to the fascia with a couple of small hex head bolts, I have the 68 and recently had all mine apart...
Depending on condition of bezel, these pieces don't agree with "old school". I had to grind/smooth the bezel removal tool and it worked fine.
bmoparmofo
Well-Known Member
they sent the entirely wrong tool. I have something else coming. So basically I have to take the cables off of the heater control levers? ( the slide switches) to get the instrument cluster and bezel out? Then I'm assuming the heater controls are mounted from behind where I cannot get to them? Haven't had much chance to go out there today again.. more rain, go figure it'll be nice when the work week starts...lol
matthon
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I've taken my dash apart multiple times, 67.
Special tool unscrews nuts holding hazard, light and wiper switch. Wiper switch goes thru metal of dash, as well as my radio delete plate. Heater controls, take off knobs with small allen wrench. Controls are held on by 2 hex head screws into back of plastic dash. There are also 2 plastic locating tabs next to screws, if they haven't broken off. They are not easy to get to or see sometimes. Take a pic with your phone to get a good look.
When you get the 2 screws out heater control arms, cables, stay behind, dash comes out.
Putting the heater controls back is even more fun.
Special tool unscrews nuts holding hazard, light and wiper switch. Wiper switch goes thru metal of dash, as well as my radio delete plate. Heater controls, take off knobs with small allen wrench. Controls are held on by 2 hex head screws into back of plastic dash. There are also 2 plastic locating tabs next to screws, if they haven't broken off. They are not easy to get to or see sometimes. Take a pic with your phone to get a good look.
When you get the 2 screws out heater control arms, cables, stay behind, dash comes out.
Putting the heater controls back is even more fun.
bmoparmofo
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the information I appreciate it ....it does not look like it's going to be easy to get to those two bolts that hold the heater controls.... I probably should pick up more beer before I start that part...lol
Wagon of Death
Aussie Barracuda Fisherman
I just eased the fascia forward and undid the two hex screws with a 1/4 drive socket on a ratchet...installing is the same but as mentioned, not as much "fun"
bmoparmofo
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the tip I'll see if I can ease it out far enough to get behind it laying under the dash in trying to get out of that seems like it would be a nightmare
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