Looks like one of the damaged is the yellow wire - cavity L - for the starter relay and the other may be the brown Accessories wire. A little detective work as you go along may point to why these two and any others got overheated like that..
I wasn't quite sure which ones were for what in the bulkhead it looks like on the outside of the bulkhead in the engine compartment there are some that are burned up in a different locationLooks like one of the damaged is the yellow wire - cavity L - for the starter relay and the other may be the brown Accessories wire. A little detective work as you go along may point to why these two and any others got overheated like that..
Here is some of the insanity that was going on under the hood so it's hard to say what caused what? Miraculously the car started ran and drove and everything worked. I'm not sure if they jumped power around to get things to work but I can't believe that everything would work with that burned up bulkhead? I'm debating on sending the instrument cluster out to get looked at Maybe have them do the modification for the ammeter? Not sure if it's worth it? The only problem the car had is that it was not charging as far as things working properly.I wasn't quite sure which ones were for what in the bulkhead it looks like on the outside of the bulkhead in the engine compartment there are some that are burned up in a different location
Not as hard to figure out as it looks at first glance. You just have to look at it as a puzzle. The wiring diagrams are the crib sheets. The terminal cavities and wire colors are the reference points. Each had a function, which is shown in the wiring diagrams.Here is some of the insanity that was going on under the hood so it's hard to say what caused what?
^^^^^what he said^^^^^^
Thanks trying to start on it today the weather is not really cooperating raining on and off here a couple quick questions trying to remove the headlight switch knob also the trip odometer knob also why does it seem like the heater controls are trying to come with the bezel on removal is there something holding them in I removed the knobs shouldn't it just slide through the bezel?^^^^^what he said^^^^^^
Thanks trying to start on it today the weather is not really cooperating raining on and off here a couple quick questions trying to remove the headlight switch knob also the trip odometer knob also why does it seem like the heater controls are trying to come with the bezel on removal is there something holding them in I removed the knobs shouldn't it just slide through the bezel?
Thanks for the help I appreciate it I did take the set knobs off with the Allen wrench I'll have to look further and see it feels like something's holding it in there but I don't see anything from the front. I took the knob off for the wipers and also got the wiper switch pushed back. Okay good to know I did not know they were going to come out together I thought the bezel would come out and then I'd have to remove something else to get the cluster.. hopefully no rain tomorrow so I can get some more done on it.Here is pic of my 69 bezel it is similar to 67.
Looks like 2 bolts go thru pot metal housing would also hold heater controls?
Also see empty hole, it is threaded so it could be for radio support or heater controls. Hope it helps.
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I did pick one up off of eBay but it did not fit so I'm going old school with itThere is a special tool to remove the headlight, flasher, wiper nuts, I bought it years ago and keep it in the ashtray, great tool, makes it easy.
I did pick one up off of eBay but it did not fit so I'm going old school with it
Thanks for the information I appreciate it ....it does not look like it's going to be easy to get to those two bolts that hold the heater controls.... I probably should pick up more beer before I start that part...lolI've taken my dash apart multiple times, 67.
Special tool unscrews nuts holding hazard, light and wiper switch. Wiper switch goes thru metal of dash, as well as my radio delete plate. Heater controls, take off knobs with small allen wrench. Controls are held on by 2 hex head screws into back of plastic dash. There are also 2 plastic locating tabs next to screws, if they haven't broken off. They are not easy to get to or see sometimes. Take a pic with your phone to get a good look.
When you get the 2 screws out heater control arms, cables, stay behind, dash comes out.
Putting the heater controls back is even more fun.
Thanks for the tip I'll see if I can ease it out far enough to get behind it laying under the dash in trying to get out of that seems like it would be a nightmareI just eased the fascia forward and undid the two hex screws with a 1/4 drive socket on a ratchet...installing is the same but as mentioned, not as much "fun"