67 barracuda starting issues

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cudajareav

cudajareav

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Hi there,

I've been driving my barracuda for a while now without any issues... well, ok some, but my current issue I have is starting the car.
I'll turn the key and sometimes it will fire right up, but other times it will tik, tik, tik, tik, like it is a battery issue, but we just replaced it.

if i turn the ignition long enough it sometimes will actually turn over, and sometimes it Doesnt and I have to re-turn the key.

Before this issue there was another problem with starting, usually while it was hot, but when i would turn the ignition it will then do nothing at all. to solve this we bypassed the starter relay... i think it was that at least. i would have to ask again what exactly it was.
 
These cars are getting old! You have to thoroughly clean the bulkhead connections and more! You can always do what I did and replace the entire electrical wiring system! Piece of mind doing so but costly! Understand the wiring first! Hope this helps!
 

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1969383S said:
These cars are getting old! You have to thoroughly clean the bulkhead connections and more! You can always do what I did and replace the entire electrical wiring system! Piece of mind doing so but costly! Understand the wiring first! Hope this helps!
Click to expand...


thanks, yes that is my last resort because the wiring is the one thing left that hasn't been replaced or modified.
 
You say tic tic..........does it make a continuous "buzz" sort of? This is usually bad cables / bad connections.
 
Sounds like it spins more without starting than tic,tic. Did you have the ignition disabled?
 
I've got this 68 fish in the way here that I start a couple times each year. Every time I set a battery in, I know I'll need to feck with the cheesy replacement battery terminals until just clicking becomes starting. Those cable ends really are worthless chit but that car doesn't need better while it just lays here.
In many cases, a starter problem is in fact the starter. Story of a local guy that replaced the starter in his e-body B'cuda,,, I don't recall If he told me where he bought that starter, if it was new or reman'd , while I was helping him load the car on a trailer. He did say he had just replaced it and it worked perfectly, all of 3 times. "Got me out of the garage and to these gas pumps."
Back to the proverbial drawing board / diagnosing was his mindset. I mentioned that the modern mini starters are very popular option today.
Couple weeks later, at a local cruise-in, he reported that a POS reman'd starter was the culprit.
He got his money back from the part store, then went to a parts yard and bought a late model mini starter. "It looked damn near new and works GREAT".
So... whatever route you choose, Good luck
 
It's been a while since I've been on here. My dad and i gave up and took it into a garage and for this guy, it was a walk in the park after what he works on a daily basis (newer Vehicles).

They tested everything and they found that the starter relay was firing at 2 volts when the car acted up and then when the car would ignite after all the clicking it would go back to normal and the car would start.

so i changed the starter relay, drove all over town, and around... 50 miles later it did it again so immediately went to the garage and parked and told them it's doing it again, they were surprised so they got their electric reader thing and started prodding around right there.

now this is where it's difficult for me to explain, but when they tested the ohms on the ground wire to the starter relay the number kept climbing... all the way beyond 900, i believe.

anyway they bypassed the ground to the relay and bolted it straight to the body.

no issues at all, starts like a charm.

Happy girl :)
 
cudajareav said:
anyway they bypassed the ground to the relay and bolted it straight to the body.

no issues at all, starts like a charm.

Happy girl :)
Click to expand...

WAIT A COTTON PICKIN MINUTE!>>>>>>>>>> THIS IS IMPORTANT!!!!!

Do you have an automatic transmission? If you DO they just bypassed the neutral SAFETY switch!!!
 
Sounds like oily/contaminated/compromised connection, either outside that neutral safety switch, or inside it.
Even when those connections are good that ground still has to have a path all the way back to the battery negative post. There is ample metal to metal contact though. Most of the time everything chassis grounded does work even where the chassis ground strap between engine and firewall is left disconnected after engine R&R. For now lets assume the fault is right there at the neutral safety switch. I'll mention one case where that wire was cut and pieced with household wire nut one place and electric tape at another. Was a chevy truck but same intermittent failure. Just never know what we'll find in these old used vehicles.
If yours has OEM trans, etc.., it's a somewhat less common, more difficult to find, single post/single function switch.
A good tech' would recognize what his tester is showing, buy you a switch and install it. What you currently have is a unsafe patch. Be sure the shifter is in park before turning the key until its properly repaired.
 
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