67 Cuda 273 - Extra Circuit for Amp, Seat Heaters

[goomasterc]

I've got the 67 service manual and have a few questions:

1. Is a Cuda considered a Valiant, Fury, or Belvedere? There are lots of schematics but thety vary in the engine compartment and IP.

2. I'm looking to power some heated seats (live in Michigan and would like to extend the driving season with the top down! Plus, I sell seat heaters for a living and need to promote the brand). I only want them operating when the engine is running and need a circuit capable of delivering 20A to tap into. Or perhaps an open circuit in the fuse panel?

3. Ditto for the above. I'd like to add a power amplifier for a stereo too.

Thanks for the assistance!

 

[Tony Fields]

In the Valiant family.

A-body

 

[krazykuda]

Look under valiant.

67 Ply service manual engine compartment page 8-121

Interior pages 8-122 & 123

For keyed ingition power you need to spawn off of the Q2A circuit into the fuse block or bridge it to the open slot next to it for the other 20 amp you are asking about.

 

[goomasterc]

Thanks for the help. Been contemplating this issue for a few months and got the answer in less than an hour after a post. Really appreciate the support. Hopefully I'll gain enough knowledge myself to share.

 

[bohica2xo]

Please don't add a 20 amp load to the already woefully undersized factory wiring in that car. The OEM wiring was marginal when it was new, and it is 45 years old now. That ignition switch is overworked at 15 amps.

Run a dedicated circuit right from the battery positive with a thermal circuit breaker close to the battery. Use a relay triggered from the ignition circuit to run the relays.

If you are planning on running the heaters & audio hard, you will need some charging system upgrades. A 37amp alternator will not get it.

B.

 

[67Dart273]

If you plan to do this, I'd go even further than what bohica posted

The top no1 problems in factory original wiring is:

Poor/ damaged/ corroded/ melted bulkhead connector terminals

Under fused, and fuse panel rust and corrosion

Undersized wire for ANY meaningful additions

The ammeter circuit is prone to problems ESPECIALLY when high current additions are added.

Ignition switch and it's connector

On my 67 when I got it there was a ONE VOLT DROP between the battery and the ignition. The switch, the connector, and the bulkhead connector were all culprits.

I'd perform the "ammeter bypass" and definately run large gauge wire from the battery (start relay stud) FUSED to power your new "stuff." And you DEFINATELY want a big alternator

Find out what all this $#&*#@#(% draws. "Heaters" use a HECK of a lot of power

This article:

http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml

Some ideas on converting ammeters to voltmeters

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=119480&highlight=ammeter+conversion

 

[RedFish]

Only way I know to have a circuit energize when the engine is running is to use a oil pressure switch.
The accesory port at one end of the fuse box is nearly worthless in the pre 1970 builds.
They have a less than adiquate wire from the ignition switch going to a 3 leg bus bar there. It already has the heater blower and the stock radio on 2 of the 3.
The accesory port is hot in run though so it could be used for light duty like signaling a relay.