67 cuda wiring issues

[1967formulaS]

Ok guys, I need some help here. I have a few wiring gremlins I need to get sorted.

1. I need to connect my msd to 12v ignition 'on' but I'm only getting 11.6v from that wire which is a black with white tracer wire at the ignition Switch. 11.6v isn't enough to fire the engine. I have 12.3v at the bulkhead connector inside the car for that same wire. So I am loosing volts Somewhere?
I have replaced the starter relay but same problem. If I hook that msd wire to another wire under the dash that does have 12v such as the cigar lighter positive wire, she starts straight away but obviously it won't turn off with the key.

2. My RH reverse light is not working and RH flasher/blinker is very dull. When I earth the housings on both near where the globes fit, they
work great. It's weird that's it's both RH side earth problems. Do they share earth the same earth wire somewhere in the harness.

3. Fuel gauge not working. I have the pulsating signal at the fitting to the sender which is new.
If I put power to the blue wire from the kick panel, the gauge goes up to full. I've read a heap of old posts about this but....

4. I have dull dash lights at the speedo gauge, but not the little vac gauge in the middle or fuel/temp/amp gauge. I have tested each globe and globe holder. The dimmer works, but they are still dull.

5. At the back of my cluster I have a big red wire and a big black wire that bolt straight to the cluster mother board. Both of these have power. I would have thought the big black wire would be neg and the red being positive??

6. My grounding wires are new and I have the following: battery to chassis, engine to chassis, chassis to dash frame.
I don't have one from the sender to the tank strap and I can't see one from the dash frame to the cluster, I'm not sure where to connect it to on the Cluster.

So apart from all this, everything else works fine. :banghead:

 

[67Dart273]

!!! MAN !!! You like to keep us busy!!!

1. I need to connect my msd to 12v ignition 'on' but I'm only getting 11.6v from that wire which is a black with white tracer wire at the ignition Switch. 11.6v isn't enough to fire the engine. I have 12.3v at the bulkhead connector inside the car for that same wire. So I am loosing volts Somewhere?
I have replaced the starter relay but same problem. If I hook that msd wire to another wire under the dash that does have 12v such as the cigar lighter positive wire, she starts straight away but obviously it won't turn off with the key.

I'll have to look, ignition run should be blue / white stripe, not black. HOWEVER that goes DEAD in "start" and you must jumper the brown bypass wire to it. All you really need to do is to hook the original coil + wire to the MSD "small red." You can ACTUALLY still leave the ballast there, or bypass it. When you do so, the brown will automatically be hooked up

2. My RH reverse light is not working and RH flasher/blinker is very dull. When I earth the housings on both near where the globes fit, they
work great. It's weird that's it's both RH side earth problems. Do they share earth the same earth wire somewhere in the harness.

Don't know, off hand. I usually solder extra ground pigtails to the sockets if they don't have them, and ground them

3. Fuel gauge not working. I have the pulsating signal at the fitting to the sender which is new.
If I put power to the blue wire from the kick panel, the gauge goes up to full. I've read a heap of old posts about this but....

NEVER apply power to the gauge sender wire. it should peg in a short time if you short the sender wire to ground

4. I have dull dash lights at the speedo gauge, but not the little vac gauge in the middle or fuel/temp/amp gauge. I have tested each globe and globe holder. The dimmer works, but they are still dull.

You just have to use your head. If you have the cluster out you can actually follow the board traces. Clean them with a light abrasive, even a pencil eraser. The sockets are pretty "cheaply" made, so could be a problem right in the socket. Wiggle the 'eck out of the dimmer control to clean it. Check power down at the inst. fuse (one end of the fuse panel) and voltage AT the tail fuse

Dash lamps are a "trick." First, the headlight switch has TWO power sources, one from the black ammeter wire, UNfused for ONLY the headlights.

Tail, park and dash power comes from the tail fuse. It goes through the switch, through the dimmer, and THEN down to the inst fuse in the fuse panel. So with the inst. lamps on, twist the dimmer all the way left and see what you have for voltage at those two points.

5. At the back of my cluster I have a big red wire and a big black wire that bolt straight to the cluster mother board. Both of these have power. I would have thought the big black wire would be neg and the red being positive??

NO these are for the ammeter, and the ammeter is in SERIES. Red is 12V coming in from the battery, and the black is the "load" side, which branches off a few inches down with a welded splice in the black, off to fuse panel, headlight switch, and ignition switch power. The black continues on back out through the bulkhead to the alternator. BE CAREFUL with this as there is NO FUSE except for the fuse link

Pleas read this excellent article:

http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml

6. My grounding wires are new and I have the following: battery to chassis, engine to chassis, chassis to dash frame.
I don't have one from the sender to the tank strap and I can't see one from the dash frame to the cluster, I'm not sure where to connect it to on the Cluster.

Use your head on the cluster. The pc board mounting screws are all grounds. I ran a pigtail from the cluster long enough to bolt to the dash frame.

The tank sender originally had a "poor" setup, a metal clip that snapped onto the sending unit supply tube, jumpered over the short connector hose, and then clipped to the supply tube up front, which really, "was grounded by accident."

If you have a good big iron you might solder a pigtail to the sender tube, and just bolt it to the body. Tank straps are a poor ground. On mine, I just wrapped some wire around the sender tube and put a hose clamp on top of it. ugly and hokey, but it worked.

You have a shop manual? Go download one, free over at Mymopar

http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=31

They recently added the 67 Barracuda supplement in there, which has info specifically on the Barracuda Rally dash

.....

 

[Rustedwrench]

Ok guys, I need some help here. I have a few wiring gremlins I need to get sorted.

1. I need to connect my msd to 12v ignition 'on' but I'm only getting 11.6v from that wire which is a black with white tracer wire at the ignition Switch. 11.6v isn't enough to fire the engine. I have 12.3v at the bulkhead connector inside the car for that same wire. So I am loosing volts Somewhere?
I have replaced the starter relay but same problem. If I hook that msd wire to another wire under the dash that does have 12v such as the cigar lighter positive wire, she starts straight away but obviously it won't turn off with the key.

The wiring diagram at which I am looking does not show a black wire with a tracer at the ignition switch. How did you identify that particular wire? Do you have a wiring diagram? Ignition on is usually dark blue with tracer.

2. My RH reverse light is not working and RH flasher/blinker is very dull. When I earth the housings on both near where the globes fit, they
work great. It's weird that's it's both RH side earth problems. Do they share earth the same earth wire somewhere in the harness.

Wiring diagram does not show colors on ground wires. Some components are grounded through the component housing to the body. I do not know about a 1967 Barracuda. The wires to operate the right rear lights are black, brown and violet. Obviously, that lamp housing is missing the ground. Look at the left lamp housing and see how it is grounded. The lamp wires on the left should be black, dark green and violet.

3. Fuel gauge not working. I have the pulsating signal at the fitting to the sender which is new.
If I put power to the blue wire from the kick panel, the gauge goes up to full. I've read a heap of old posts about this but....

The sending unit must be grounded. This is usually done with a spring clip that clips onto the pipe going in the sending unit and the metal fuel line on the chassis. Do a search for "sending unit ground clip" for your car. Sold on ebay and purveyors of fine Mopar restoration parts everywhere.

4. I have dull dash lights at the speedo gauge, but not the little vac gauge in the middle or fuel/temp/amp gauge. I have tested each globe and globe holder. The dimmer works, but they are still dull.

Not enough info. Could be weak bulb or dirty connection to the circuit board or just different bulbs.

5. At the back of my cluster I have a big red wire and a big black wire that bolt straight to the cluster mother board. Both of these have power. I would have thought the big black wire would be neg and the red being positive??

The big red and black wires connect to the ammeter. Both have battery voltage on them. Unless the battery is dead.

6. My grounding wires are new and I have the following: battery to chassis, engine to chassis, chassis to dash frame.
I don't have one from the sender to the tank strap and I can't see one from the dash frame to the cluster, I'm not sure where to connect it to on the Cluster.

The cluster is usually grounded through the mounting screws to the dash panel. It is not unheard of the add a ground to the cluster. Location depends on your cluster.

So apart from all this, everything else works fine. :banghead:

Well, glad to hear it.

I am no Mopar expert. I am just looking at some wiring diagrams. Links below. You can look and see if they match your car. If not, everything I told you is crap. You're welcome.

http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1967/67BarracudaA.jpg

http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1967/67BarracudaB.jpg

Click on the diagram to enlarge it.

 

[67Dart273]

I am no Mopar expert. I am just looking at some wiring diagrams. Links below. You can look and see if they match your car. If not, everything I told you is crap. You're welcome.

http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1967/67BarracudaA.jpg

http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1967/67BarracudaB.jpg

Click on the diagram to enlarge it.

LOL I see we were working at same time. While the posted diagrams are certainly useful in many cases, I usually say this:

They are sometimes easier to follow, but often leave things out, including some connectors and options. I ALWAYS prefer the factory diagrams if I can get them.

 

[1967formulaS]

Thanks guys for your help.
I will start with your suggestions today.
If I put my test light on the black with white tracer wire and turn ignition to the 'on' position, it lights up. The other wires don't.. That same wire also goes up to the fan switch. I'll see if I can get a couple of pics up.

 

[67Dart273]

Thanks guys for your help.
I will start with your suggestions today.
If I put my test light on the black with white tracer wire and turn ignition to the 'on' position, it lights up. The other wires don't.. That same wire also goes up to the fan switch. I'll see if I can get a couple of pics up.

Consult the diagrams or shop manual and look at the switch. There are only so many connections to the switch

This is from the instrument panel wiring, page 309 (8-122, 8-123) of the factory manual

Power into the switch is J1 coming up from the bottom an no 12 RED

START is S2, top left which is YELLOW

ACCESSSORY is just below it, Q2 which is a no 12 BLACK

That only leaves "ignition run" and the "bypass" circuit

=======================================

IGNITION RUN or IGN 1 is J2 DARK BLUE with TRACER and G5 on the right branches off to the right off the same terminal. G5 supplies power to the instrument cluster

THAT WIRE, the DARK BLUE is what feeds out through the bulkhead and powers the ballast resistor. This is one of the two you need for ignition. It appears out in the engine bay

THIS TERMINAL goes DEAD during START. Therefore you must also have the one below, the bypass circuit

=======================================

The last terminal is J3, at very top of the switch. It is BROWN and only goes one place---through the bulkhead, to the coil + side of the ballast resistor. It only has one job.....it is hot in "crank" and supplies "hot" ignition power for start. THIS WIRE and the dark blue / tracer "ignition run" must be jumpered together in order to "fire" your MSD

 

[1967formulaS]

I got the reverse lights and flashers working last night from your suggestions.
I also made up a ground wire for the fuel sender and it's now working as well.
I will work on the ignition today. Thanks for your help everyone.

 

[67Dart273]

Man!! You've been busy. Cold and wet here this weekend

 

[1967formulaS]

Bloody hot here in the tropics. about 90 degrees F, but humidity isn't too bad at 30%. It will start getting hotter in the coming weeks and the humidity gets to 85-90%. Glad I'm almost ready to hit the streets. I've got a 1,850 mile road trip in the cuda coming up in November, so I need to be ready asap so I can iron out all the little problems once it's legally drivable.

 

[1967formulaS]

Thanks guys, that ignition mod done the trick.
Starts and stops with the key now. 😀

 

[67Dart273]

If you have not already, read this article, even if you don't or dont plan to make the mod

http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml

and if you have not, go through your bulkhead connector and fix any problems with terminals. You can buy replacement Packard 56 terminals. I got mine a "clips and fasteners" online

 

[1967formulaS]

Thanks for that, I've put an inline auto reset circuit breaker for the main power wire from battery to bulkhead. It does the trick well. I've accidentally set it off a couple of times while wiring. Lol.

 

[1967formulaS]

I've also got rid of the amp gauge and running an aftermarket volt gauge.
I plan on totally rewiring the whole car next year.