Matts440
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After. I'll check the tooth
67 twin turbo dart
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Matts440
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From what I can see and feel the tooth looks and feels like all the others.
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Can we try a tooth log instead of a composite log? These are a bit easier to read on missing tooth wheels.
Matts440
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I sure can, I'll get it done today and upload it. Thank you for helping
Matts440
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Matts440
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It says no restrictions so should be able to view the tooth log. @MadScientistMat
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OK, this log looks like the teeth are normal, but it's barely catching. I don't think this is a lost sync issue, so much as the engine is not running well and losing sync when it stalls.
Matts440
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So you think moving the sensor closer would help? Like .015
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No - I think the sensor and crank trigger are doing their jobs fine. Something else is causing the stall and then the stall causes sync loss. You're chasing the effect instead of the cause here. I would look for fuel related issues next.
Matts440
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Oh okay. I've tested each circuit of the injectors, they fire as they should and in order, 2 sprays per signal, except for #2 when first tested only sprayed once, but sent the signal again and it did 2. Fuel pressure is 43psi. All plugs were wet so I know the injectors are spraying. Tank has just under half. Main pump is on a switch with it's own power source, second pump the same just grounded through the ECM at a certain rpm.
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Two sprays per signal? How exactly are you testing them? I'm wondering if the problem is too much fuel and not too little.
You don't by any chance have an oscilloscope?
You don't by any chance have an oscilloscope?
Matts440
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I use a diode to check the signal to the I injectors. I can pull some fuel out lower down. I do not have one of those. Current settings, they are 120lb injectors
Matts440
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Wonder if my summit fuel filters dont flow enough, I have a 100 micron before both fuel pumps and a 10 at the intake
Matt - did the heads come off when you pulled the motor? Could this be bad valve lash on a cylinder maybe?
Matts440
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Nope it all stayed together, I did have to remove one rocker assembly due to a lock breaking, but was torqued back to spec and lash set to spec at cold per hughes racing site, only thing that came off was the throttle body and the front cover with oil pan.
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Matts440
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Well pulled the filters today and the primary pump had these in the pre filter and can see a little bit up at the filter under the intake. Making me think some of this got to the injectors and leaking. Might send them in and have them checked. Thoughts?
Matts440
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Yep, not sure where it all came from. Looks like the foam pieces, Aluminum and dirt. I removed the foam with the lid on and even vacuumed the cell before I even put fuel in for the first time. Dirt from the local gas station in their fuel.
I mean, that’s what filters are for, right? But that #2 injector not working on the first test might be a clue. Unless it works fine on a 2nd test.
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I wouldn’t think flow would be an issue with those filters if you can’t even get the thing to idle.
Dude send me a full log even if it only runs for a few seconds. Maybe something will stand out to me.
Matts440
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Well fuel elements are on back order from summit and through trick flow. But was thinking would the valve train noise cause the signal loss if the wiring was low down between the VC and the injectors? Just going over everything again and rechecking all grounds, moved one from chassis to batt ground, even though it ran fine before where the ground was.
I wouldn’t think mechanical noise from valve train would generate enough Emi to step on the crank trigger signal. Just make sure crank and cam sensor leads don’t run close or parallel to high voltage wires like coil or alternator. They can go across the wires ok, you just don’t want them running close and/or parallel for any significant length.
Matts440
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I was figuring that but thought I'd try. Yeah the signal were for the crank is on the opposite side of the alternator wire, and the cam routes under it.
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A valvetrain issue won't cause electrical noise - but if it's keeping one cylinder from working normally, it could result in some of the unevenness I saw on the tooth log. The log I saw looked like all the teeth were real teeth and not noise pulses. I had a bit of a scare when my Dart dropped a cylinder on the dyno - did all sorts of tests only to find that one of the adjuster screws was no longer locking in place and had backed out.
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