'68 Barracuda Formula S Fastback Restoration Background

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RLF Cuda

Barracuda Bob
FABO Gold Member
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Location
Aurora, CO
I have had my '68 340 Formula S FB Black on Black for 55 years come June. I finally got the restoration essentially complete and thought I should write up some of the background on the car and detail the history. So I wrote 32 pages with photos and want to share it with FABO members. I will copy and paste sections of the history so that the post isn't too long. Please comment and I will add or modify the story as appropriate.
Part 1 Background and Reminiscing

Background and Reminiscing​

I purchased my first car, a 1968 Plymouth Barracuda, on 6 June 1969. I was a Junior in Lakewood High School at the time and this was the last day of classes. I walked about 2.5 miles from school to the home of the then current owner who was a stock clerk at a grocery store where I was a box boy earning $1.85/hr. I saved most of my money to buy this car and borrowed some from my father. I purchased the car for $1700 plus $100 for the Crager’s that were on it already. The owner said that I could have the original wheels on the car but it looked too good with Crager’s to pass up the opportunity to purchase them even though it was 50 hours of work time. Boy how times have changed. Gas was $0.20/gal for regular and my father was appalled that the car took Premium, which was $0.25/gal. What a waste of money!

The Barracuda itself was/is a 1968 Fastback Formula S in black with a 340, A727, disk brakes, Sure Grip, 3.55 gears, AM radio, and a bench seat. Not much else.



The car was built on December 7, 1967, so it was only 18 months old and had 17,000 miles on it when I purchased it. It looked perfect, at least to me, but the owner said that it had been hit in the back by a PU truck which punched out the rear window. I could hardly tell that it ever was hit, but I was only 17 at the time. More on that later! The rear valance was a 318 single exhaust version which I was told was requested when the car was repaired after the accident. He had the exhaust dump in front of the axle and had flanges near the head pipe to remove the pipes when drag racing. I don’t recall if he ever said how fast the car was, but I was soon to find out.

I spent the summer learning the car and buying tools I would need to work on the car. I remember that I got a Sears Craftsman toolbox and large selection of tools for $25. Still a lot back then, but useful!

I needed to register the car, naturally, so I drove to the DMV for an emissions check and registration. Back then it was just a tailpipe sniff, so trivial. I remember the DMV office with smog check was in the port area so there were lots of businesses and few people on the road. The guy that did the smog check had a Nova (unknown engine or anything) and wanted to see how fast the Cuda was. We raced on a back street a few times and I beat him consistently, which was thrilling for a 17 year old kid.

Living in Hot Rod Heaven, SoCal, I had numerous drag strips available to me. I first went to Lion’s Drag Strip in the Wilmington area right next to Long Beach off Alameda Street. I actually met Big Willie and saw his Hemi Charger run a number of times. Big Willie was a 6’6” black guy that pulled kids off the street in Watts and showed them the joys of drag racing instead of street racing. He was a hero to those kids.

I began to try out other drag strips as Lion’s was not the most enjoyable place to race. I began to go to Orange County International Raceway (OCIR) most of the time as it was both well run and the ‘Cuda seemed to love that strip. On Wednesday evenings, I could get 6-10 or more runs in and practice my launch and reaction time skills. I kept all the timing slips in my glove compartment for a long time and at one point had 350 or more in there. Unfortunately, I didn’t keep them all but I still have 29 of the better runs. One cool Wednesday evening when the fog was coming in, I was able to make 10 runs all in the 13.60 to 13.50 second range at 103 to 104 MPH with the best time of 13.45 at 104.65. I even had a few 0.02 and 0.03 second reaction times. I sometime took notes on the competitor and one timing slip showed I raced a 1970 Coronet R/T with a 440 and 4.56 gears which ran a 13.61 against my 13.58. That was close.

By the end of my Senior year in HS, I had learned a lot how to drive the Cuda. The last day of class they let us out early and I took a girlfriend to lunch. On Woodruff Blvd, a wide street with a landscaped divider in the middle, I ran across “The Fastest Car In School”, a ’66 Nova SS 283 stroked to a 301 with a 4sp and 4.11 gears. There was no one on the road at that point so we raced from a stop. He spun and I scooted leaving him in the dust. He came up and said that it wasn’t a fair race because I had 4.56 gears (he assumed, as he lost), so he wanted to go from a roll where he had the advantage (so he thought). Well, that wasn’t so as I had 3.55 gears and was in the power band of the 340. No contest. That was the end of him being the Fastest Car in HS, but only for a day as we graduated that night.

Most times I raced the ‘Cuda, I took the back seat out which weighs about 50 lbs as it is the fold down seat, put a few gallons of Chevron Supreme White Pump 102 octane fuel in the tank, and headed off to the track. I sometimes dropped the exhaust but that was a pain to do at the track and really didn’t make that much difference anyway. The car had H70-14 rear tires that were retreads of Goodyear tires. A local tire shop in Bellflower had tire retreading equipment and it was cheaper than buying new tires. Plus he used a soft compound that had a lot more traction than the Firestons E70-14’s that were stock on the car. Traction is everything as I was becoming aware.

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Figure 1 Selection of the fastest timing slips I saved.

In the late ‘60’s and early ’70’s, Camaro and Chevelle SS 396’s were very popular and just about everywhere. I had loads of fun running against them as the almost always spun their tires off the line and I simply throttled through the launch with little tire spin. Game Over. They generally turned away embarrassed to have lost to a small block Mopar. I did learn how fast a SS 396 375 HP Nova was when I punched off against my Brother-in-Law on the street from a roll once (Yes, I know!). We were neck to neck to about 60 when I backed off having shown that the 340 could match a Nova SS 396. My BIL didn’t mention that ever again. He worked for a speed shop (Super Shops in Downey, CA) a that time and had lots of upgrades done to the 396 like headers and a 850 DP, but still was just as fast as a stock 340. Ooops.

I went to Irwindale Raceway as well, but more often on Saturdays. One Saturday during a NHRA race, I registered and the put me in F Stock Automatic. I was the only one in that class so I got a trophy. During time trials, I ran against a new 1970 Cuda 440+6. We were neck and neck going into the first speed timing light when I nudged him by ½ a length and won that race. The engine was missing at the time so I went to the pits to change plugs. The ‘Cuda 440+6 owner came up saying that he had never been beat and wanted to see my Hemi. Ooops, his mouth fell open when he saw a small block in the engine compartment and simply walked away. That was enjoyable to say the least!

I drove the ‘Cuda all over the place and had 60,000 miles on it by 1971 and had about 350 timing slips at that point. I was in College at the time (Long Beach State University). The ’73 gas crisis hit and insurance costs were rising quickly, and I was working less and studying more, so I first got a 90 CC Kawasaki then a 500 CC Suzuki to go to school and work in. The Cuda sat in a garage for a number of years. When I was in Graduate School at UC Irvine, I needed wheels again, so I rebuilt the engine with a mild cam from a 318 but kept the Carter AVS and tuned it to perfection. I put 2.94 gears in the rear and was able to eke out 23-24 MPG from the ‘Cuda.

I was a graduate student in chemistry at UCI and in 1976 we had an American Chemical Society conference in San Fracisco. I drove there taking a number of other grad students with me. On the way home, I filled up in San Jose near where my sister lived and drove all the way to Irvine on one tank of gas traveling about 379 miles on less than 16 gal. I was on fumes but made it to a gas station, so I got just less than 24 MPG. That was impressive for the time. I did take the car to OCIR with that setup and turned 14.50’s at 95, which for 2.94 gears and a mild cam was fast enough.

After graduation, I moved to NorCal and worked for Chevron in the lubricants area. The Cuda was used only sparingly as I purchased a ’66 Hemi Belvedere with 16,000 miles on it and took that to shows. I also got a ’67 383 FS 4SP FB ‘Cuda for $500 which was a lot considering it was apart with the engine in the trunk and the transmission in the back seat. I spent a lot of time restoring that ’67 and it was a nice car when done, but I had to sell it when I moved to a new home due to CCR’s that wouldn’t let me park it in my driveway. I got $6,500 for it, which is what I had into the restoration, so I was OK with that, but now I really wish I had that car and the Belvedere too. But at least I kept my ’68 ‘Cuda!

Job changes and moves left me little time to work on the ‘Cuda but I did get the car running finally when in Tulsa, OK. I had 3 engines for the car and built 2 of them for myself and built one for a friend with a ’67 Barracuda convertible 273 that we were slowly turning into a Formula S 340. I gave him the original engine as it was +0.040 at the time and the other two were +0.20 which at the time was a better deal to me. I got the car running but it needed a lot of other work to be nicely done. The rear quarters had a lot of damage from both the original owner’s accident and subsequent hits. I must have had 5 coats of paint on the car at that time and some was flaking off. I moved to Denver area in 2007 and began to drive the Cuda occasionally but longed to restore it.
 
Part Two, Beginning of the Restoration Process--AMD

Beginning of the Restoration Process—AMD​

In 2020, I saw an add from Auto Metal Direct (AMD) that they had only a few 1968 FB Barracuda rear quarter panels remaining. I contacted them and reserved the last set but it took me quite a while to get the car stripped for shipping to AMD. In March of 2021 I began disassembling and documenting the ‘Cuda for restoration. In July, the ‘Cuda was shipped to AMD where the rear quarter panels and rear valance would be replaced with reproduction parts. This would put back the dual exhaust cutouts that were not there when I purchased the car.

I had AMD do other repairs and installation of the US Car Tools Level 2 chassis stiffening kit including weld-in frame connectors, torque boxes, front apron connectors and radiator core support stiffener. The also installed trunk floor extensions and bucket seat mounting brackets as the car was originally a bench seat car. All this work and parts cost $8,100 which seems like a good deal for all that work. The car body was returned in October with fresh fenders and a lot of other new parts repaired or installed.
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Figure 2 'Cuda body as received at AMD Instillation Center.

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Figure 4 Front Floor as received.

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Figure 5 Body shell with quarter panels and rear valance removed.

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Figure 6 Rear view with quarter panels and valance removed.

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Figure 7 Body shell on frame rack ready for welding on quarter panels.

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Figure 8 New quarter panels and rear valance installed.
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Figure 9 Passenger side torque box installed.
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Figure 10 Front driver's side torque box installed.

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Figure 11 Splash shield repair due to fenerwell header cuts.

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Figure 12 Upper Fender reinforcement.



Figure 13 Front frame rail and radiator core support reinforcement.



Figure 14 Rear valance with dual exhaust cutouts installed.
 
Ran out of attachments I could do at one time. Here are the rest of the photos.
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Figure 13 Front frame rail and radiator core support reinforcement.
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Figure 14 Rear valance with dual exhaust cutouts installed.
 
Part Three Finding the Original Engine

Finding the Original Engine​

When I lived in the SF Bay area, a good friend had a ’67 Barracuda 273 convertible that I was helping update to Formula S status. We were going to install a 340 and I gave him my original engine for the job. It never got done. I moved to Tulsa, then Denver, and he moved to Seattle and then Vashon Island were he retired. I had not been in contact with him for nearly 20 years. Fortunately, I had his phone number and was able to reestablish contact with him. He still had the original 340 and never installed it in his convertible. I just needed to drive to WA and pick it up. He knew that it was important to reconnect the car with the original engine. Lucky Me!

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Figure 15 1968 340 engine after 30 years of storage and moving across 3 states.

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Figure 16 Loading the 340 into my truck for the drive back to Colorado.
 
Part Four--Restoration Paint and Assembly

Restoration Paint and Assembly​

Painting and assembly of the car after the metal work was completed was a daunting challenge. The car had to be essentially perfect for a black paint job or it wouldn’t look right at all. I visited a number of shops in the Denver area and most were working on rods or Chevies. None gave me a warm feeling that they knew Mopars and cared sufficiently enough to do the kind of work I wanted done on my car. My going in position was to have a straight body and nice paint but that the car would be a driver and not a show queen. I had known about Cars, Remember When as I visited their showroom on Santa Fe in Englewood, CO. I didn’t know they had a restoration shop until I searched for local businesses that could do the work I needed done. I met with Scott Morton, the shop manager of the CRW Restoration Center on Datura in Littleton, CO and was immediately impressed with the business and the people. Scott is a Mopar fanatic like me having owned a number of E-bodies in his time including an AAR and 440+6. Scott took on the project and managed every step along the way.

Cars Remember When uses PPG DPLV Epoxy Primer which Scott described as a harder primer than the typical automotive primer. It is more difficult to sand but results in a more stable and harder surface for paint. The body work went smoothly as the doors and fenders were in excellent condition, and the new sheetmetal was in place. There were a few metal adjustments made to fit the trunk to the rear quarter panel in the drivers side, both other than that, all went well. The car was primed and ready for final sanding and paint.

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Figure 17 The Barracuda Body after initial priming.
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Figure 18 Final priming before blocking for paint.
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Figure 19 In the paint booth just after final coat of black. Passenger Side

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Figure 20 In the paint booth just before final coat of black, Drivers Side.

As the car was a solid color, it could be panel painted which is how they proceeded. Each panel was separately painted so that all sides were well coated.
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Figure 21 Hood, fenders and doors after painting.

Although the underside of the car was rust free, I had them undercoat the car with what is essentially bed liner material.

The car was then assembled with the next step being Cut and Buff. I didn’t expect this to be done as I was planning on the car being a driver, so a perfect paint job was not required. But once I saw how perfect the paint looked, it was hard to complain that they went one step further than I asked for.



Figure 22 Final paint after Cut and Buff during assembly.
 
Part Five--Assembly and Mechanical

Assembly and Mechanical Work​

The paint work was seemingly the easy part as now the assembly had to start. Some of it went smoothly and some was fraught with difficulties. I wanted to have a solid suspension, so I upgraded the LCA’s to urethane bushings and had stiffening plates welded in. These looked nice. I also purchased the K-Frame Reinforcement kit. This is where it got interesting. While prepping the K-Frame for welding, the technician found that there was a huge amount of brass slag inside the K-Frame. WTF? On further inspection, it appeared that the K-Frame was severely dented at one time and made to look new again with brazing. Not the ideal repair approach.

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Figure 23 Section of K-Frame removed due to damage and Brazing repair.

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Figure 24 K-Frame after metal work to repair previous damange and poor repair.

The damage to the K-Frame lead me to think through a number of issues with the Barracuda that were mysteries since I purchased it. The hood had the ’67 standard Barracuda slotted inserts instead of the 340-S inserts that most Formula S cars had. There was an obvious weld repair on the front frame longitudinal in front of the upper A-Arm that I never could explain. And during assembly we found that the radiator core support was brazed in place and was at least 3/8” further back than stock based on measuring undamaged A-Bodies vs mine. Unfortunately, the core support could have been replaced by AMD if we knew that it was not in the right position at that time.

To address the core support being out of place, I had to select a radiator that had dual 10” fans offset that would allow the ‘70+ water pump to fit without hitting the radiator fan. The single electric fan I was using interfered with the water pump pully bolts. I found that Engineered Cooling Products had a radiator that had both the cooling capacity and dual fan arrangement that worked.

The front suspension was upgraded with Energy Suspension LCA urethane bushings, new LCA pins with lubrication holes, LCA stiffening plates and offset UCA bushings to increase caster. From my 383 Barracuda restoration, I kept the 383 torsion bars having used 1.03” bars in that Cuda. The 1.03 bars worked very well with the heavier 383 and the 0.89 bars . The stock 340 bars are 120 lbs/inch spring rate while the 0.89 bars are 130 lbs/inch. Although the 1.03” bars are popular, the have 230 lbs/inch spring rate, so that may be a lot.

I am using ‘73+ A-Body disk brakes with ‘78+ police car 11.81” rotors and pin-style calipers. They were originally mounted to the rear for sway bar clearance, but I switched to the Hellwig 55917 1.25” bar which is bent to have clearance for the brakes mounted in front of the spindle which is the stock location. These large diameter brakes have massive stopping power.
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Figure 25 Front suspension with Hellwig sway bar and modified mounting tab.

For many years I ran 235-60x15 BFG Radia T/A’s on the front of the car. However, with fresh LCA bushings and mounting the calipers to the front, I somehow lost about ½” or more in tire clearance. I ended up having to go to 215-60x15 BFG’s to get enough clearance to the lower front fender edge.

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Figure 26 Front tire clearance with BFG 235-60x15 Radial T/A tires.

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Figure 27 Fender clearance with 225-60x15 BFG Radial T/A's.

The rear suspension used Mopar A-Body oval track springs with 1” lift. These springs require a slightly different spring perch which I got from Mancini Racing (AE Engineering) #MREAR118KIT which all lowering the ride height by 1.5” which we did. For rear brakes, I adapted the Jeep Liberty rear disk brakes to the 8 ¾ rear using the Mopar Action article which details this swap. The rear disk brakes look good with the Weld Pro Star rims.

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Figure 28 Rear axle with Jeep Liberty rear disk brake conversion.
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Figure 29 Rear disk brakes and Weld Pro Star rims with 255-60R15 tires.
 
Part Six--Chassis Upgrades

Chassis Upgrades​

My goal with this car was to have a solid chassis for improved handling. When talking to AMD about installation of the rear quarter panels, they recommended installing the US Car Tools Level 2 Chassis Stiffening kit. This includes Subframe Connectors, Front and Rear Torque Boxes, Front Inner Fender Brades and Lower Radiator Core Support Stiffener. I chose not to go with the Level 3 kit which includes Rear Spring relocation and Mini-Tub kits as I didn’t want that level of modification to the car and wider wheel wheels would require modification of the interior sail panels in the back of the car.

The photos below detail the Subframe Connectors, Torque Boxes

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Figure 30 US Car Tool Subframe Connectors and rerouted fuel lines.

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Figure 31 US Car Tool Front Torque Box.

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Figure 32 US Car Tool Rear Torque Box.

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Part Seven-- Engine

Engine and Transmission Details​

Once the K-Frame was restored, we installed the engine/transmission on the K-Frame and lowered the body over the engine/transmission.

The engine is a 1970 340 that I got from a Dart that had front end damage and was sold for essentially scrap in 1977. My brother and I restored the Dart installing a rebuilt 318 which was very cheap then and sold it to a roommate in college. I kept the 340 for all these years. It was rebuilt in the late 1980’s with Sealed Power 10.5:1 pistons at 0.020 over as the bores were very clean. Almost could have just honed and re-ringed, but at that time pistons were cheap. Later I decided that I wanted to lighten the whole front of the car, so I installed Edelbrock head saving 40 lbs. The transmission was from a Dodge 2500 van with a 360. It had 4-pinion front planetary so it should be more than strong enough. Chris Andrews of Andrews Racing Transmissions built the A727 to handle 700 HP, far more than this engine will ever make.

The twin engine to this one was dyno tuned when it was in the ‘Cuda and produce 320 HP @ 5500 rpm and 360 lb-feet torque at 4400 rpm on a chassis dyno at Mile High Performance. This engine had Factory 340 X heads with port matching and bowl blending, , a Mopar Performance 284-484 cam (P4120231) solid adjustable rocker arms (273 type), Sealed Power 2332P +0.020 pistons, and an Edelbrock Performer Air-Gap manifold. The engine I installed is the same rotating assembly but with Edelbrock aluminum heads, a 280-480 cam (P4452992), and a Performer manifold replacing the Air-Gap manifold.

I don’t anticipate dyno tuning this combination, but I did have the previous 340 dyno tuned by Mile High Performance. Mile High has a chassis dyno and obtained the power/torque curve shown below. Max torque was 360 ft-lbs at 4400 RPM and max HP was 335.5 at 5500 RPM. The numbers are SAE corrected from the actual measured values per standard correction factors. As I live at 5800 feet, the loss in HP at altitude is 58. With the supposedly higher flow of the Edelbrock heads but the slightly more restrictive Performer manifold, I anticipate similar power from the 340 currently in the ‘Cuda.

The original 340 was disassembled after 30+ years of storage and thoroughly inspected. There was no rust found anywhere which is surprising as the engine was in the humid climate of Fashion Island for much of that time. I did leave the valve train loose to keep all valves closed which may have helped prevent rust. This engine will be kept in reserve as it is more valuable than the two 340’s that are spares to the ‘Cuda.
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Figure 33 Chassis dyno of 340 used in 'Cuda prior to the current engine.

When I purchased the Edelbrock aluminum heads, I did not realize that they REQUIRE the use of a newer water pump which is ¾” longer than the ’69 and earlier pump. This caused the WP pully to hit the radiator electric cooling fan with the Champion radiator I planned to run. I installed the original radiator which was a 4-core desert cooler radiator I have used for 40 years and the stock fan hit that core as well. This is when I measured the Core Support placement and found it was at least 5/8” further rearward from stock most likely due to collision repair work done before I owned the car.

I located an Engineered Cooling Products 2374-S radiator with dual 10” fans (HDDF) and wiring kit. Dave Bond of Cars Remember When wired the fan controllers directly to the alternative output with the thermostatic control wires going to a single 180°F thermostatic switch. I probably will change this to a dual controlled system by adding a 195°F switch so that both fans don’t come on simultaneously.

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Figure 34 ECP 22" Radiator and cooling fans clearance to 340 water pump pully.

The transmission was built by Andrews Racing Transmissions of Castle Rock, Co. Chris Andrews used Kone Steels and Alto Red clutches and a red 2nd Gear band along with other premium parts. The previous transmission which I built from a ProTrans (Lancaster, CA) rebuild that never shifted properly. I wanted a trans that would shift at 6000 rpm like the stock transmission did and be firm but not harsh on the street under normal driving. Chris installed a 5400 RPM governor which should be close to what is desired. Chris recommended a cast aluminum pan with stud kit to stiffen the transmission case. Probably overkill for the HP level I have, but it does look good.

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Figure 35 Transmission and exhaust installed.
 
Part Eight-Wiring

Wiring and Upgraded Electrical Components​

The Mopar electrical system works fine when stock and no modifications are made to the complete system. However, I upgraded the headlights to halogen (Marchall Ampilux) in 1977 and added headlight relays a year later, added an electric fan to help with fuel efficiency in 1978, and other minor changes over the years. During this rebuild, Dave Bond and I wanted to have a bullet proof electrical system and Dave had experience with both power and grounding improvements that he knew would work in combination with the cooling fans I chose to go with the ECP radiator.

We started with a square back alternator which was rebuilt to 70 amp capacity. This should be sufficient to run the headlights and cooling fans simultaneously. The original electrical wiring was left mostly unmodified but a bulkhead alternator to battery shunt with fusible link was added to protect the bulkhead connector which is a notoriously weak link in the system. The engine and alternator were also separately grounded to the chassis separate from the battery ground cable to insure that all components functioned properly. The starter used is a Durango mini-starter which was wired to the battery with new terminals and wire all obtained from Battery Cables USA (Quality Copper Battery Cables Made in the USA! - BatteryCablesUSA). We chose military grade battery terminals as they allow bolt on cables and are more durable than other options.

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Figure 36 BatteryCableUSA.Com military grade terminals.

All connectors were attached to wires using solder plugs that match the terminal and cable connectors giving a 100% reliable connection.

Also included in the upgrading of the system was an under dash map light that I acquired from a junkyard A-Body and a Barracuda FB rear window defroster and ducting which I had from so many years ago.

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Figure 37 Battery terminal wiring.

The radiator fan wiring was mounted to a plate bolted to the radiator shroud to eliminate the need to put more holes in the engine compartment sheet metal. The power is drawn from the alternator terminal as this is essentially the same as connecting to the battery. The control wiring runs to a single thermostatic switch on the intake manifold. This will be upgraded to two switches at different temperatures to reduce current draw when possible.
Figure 38 Battery wiring.
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Figure 39 Radiator cooling fan solenoid mounting and wiring to alternator.
 
Part Nine--Finishing the Car
The car is almost done. We got the seats in and found that the tracks were worn. I had '73 Dart Sport seats in the car since about 1975. The tracks starting that year had nylon runners holding the rollers and balls in place. They disintegrated and fell apart when we put the seats in. Had to get new tracks and that is about it. Alignment next, then it can come home!

Finishing the Car​

Assembly went well as most trim was in excellent condition requiring minimal work to make presentable. Seats were the ’73 Dart Sport versions which I acquired in 1976 or so when my original bench seat began to tare due to sliding across the ribs for almost 10 years. Legendary Interiors provided the foam cushions and seat covers which were installed by Auto Weave Auto Upholstery in Wheatridge, CO

The dash bezel was replaced with a PG Classics reproduction unit. This presented assembly problems as the groove that accepts the upper support plate for the bezel was not deep or wide enough to work with the plate. A Dremel tool cutoff wheel of about 1/16th inch width was used to carefully open the groove to accept the plate. This was a nerve-wracking task with a brand new $600 dash bezel. But they all apparently are this way. Cheap Chinese products. But the end product looks good.

Way back in 1972, I put a Stewart-Warner Stage III tach in the dash in the stock tach location. This looked and functioned perfectly for 50 years. But when going through my collection of Barracuda parts collected of that time, I found a factory tach that still worked perfectly. I replaced the SW tach with that unit as it looks more correct. Even if the SW tach was also great.

Dave Bond polished all the trim and front grill to perfection. Nothing was really bad, but years of tiny sand and stone chips needed to be polished out.
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Figure 40 Body assembled awaiting windows.

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Figure 41 All windows and trim installed.

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Figure 42 Rear view of 'Cuda with restored trunk trim and new taillight. Added red strpe to trunk.
 
Car is stunningly beautiful. That was smart adding the chassis stiffening pieces. Car is going to drive so much better.
 
My dream car is a 1968 Barracuda fastback -- like yours. I wouldn't care if it were a /6, 318, or Formula-S car. I have in my mind mods I would do to make it better, and what you're doing to yours aligns very well with my thoughts. All I can say is I love your car and what you're doing!
 
MPG Mike, I lived in Tulsa for 7 years (actually Jenks, but close enough). Moved to the Denver area in 2007 and love it here. Wish you were closer so we could meet.
 
340S Fastback,
I was considering the conversion to a Tremec trans for a long time but couldn't justify the floor pan mods and trans crossmember cutting on a car that essentially had no damage or rust in that area. So some recommended a GearVender, but I need to see exactly how that installs before considering that option. But having an overdrive is tempting. I have the old fashion OD. Swapping gears in the 8 3/4. I have 3:55 stock and a set of 2:94's with SureGrip for highway. Not ideal, but it works.
 
Bob, thanks for the thread.
How long did you stay in the lubes business?
 
340S Fastback,
I was considering the conversion to a Tremec trans for a long time but couldn't justify the floor pan mods and trans crossmember cutting on a car that essentially had no damage or rust in that area. So some recommended a GearVender, but I need to see exactly how that installs before considering that option. But having an overdrive is tempting. I have the old fashion OD. Swapping gears in the 8 3/4. I have 3:55 stock and a set of 2:94's with SureGrip for highway. Not ideal, but it works.
Took me 5 plus years of analysis paralysis to finally arrive at T56 Magnum decision. There are so many choices for overdrive swaps, pros/cons etc. You can always circle back at a later time and do an overdrive. My biggest issue was full floor replacement rust caused by water leaks early in cars life. Trans swap tunnel mods minor compared to full floor replacement.....
 
You have an AWESOME CAR!! Great Job!!

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Ron,
This is exactly what my car looked like 55 years ago. Cragars and all. Except for the Formula S emblem. Mine had the Finned hood inserts and not the 340-S inserts. I think that was do to front end damage before I got the car. A few hidden issues showed up during restoration indicating that the front end was hit very hard. Bent right frame rail that was straightened and welded, front radiator core support that was brazed in place but the wrong place by 5/8", and the aforementioned hood inserts that are from a '67, not a '68. But most of this has been corrected except the core support which we didn't figure out until the fan wouldn't fit with the new longer water pump. The '70+ WP is 3/4" longer and was needed to fit the Edelbrock Aluminum heads.
 
Ron,
This is exactly what my car looked like 55 years ago. Cragars and all. Except for the Formula S emblem. Mine had the Finned hood inserts and not the 340-S inserts. I think that was do to front end damage before I got the car. A few hidden issues showed up during restoration indicating that the front end was hit very hard. Bent right frame rail that was straightened and welded, front radiator core support that was brazed in place but the wrong place by 5/8", and the aforementioned hood inserts that are from a '67, not a '68. But most of this has been corrected except the core support which we didn't figure out until the fan wouldn't fit with the new longer water pump. The '70+ WP is 3/4" longer and was needed to fit the Edelbrock Aluminum heads
I run Edelbrock heads with the early cast iron water pump along with the '69 and earlier water pump and crank pulleys. Not understanding why you had to go with a '70 up water pump?
 
I run Edelbrock heads with the early cast iron water pump along with the '69 and earlier water pump and crank pulleys. Not understanding why you had to go with a '70 up water pump?
I couldn't get the pullies to line up with the E-Heads. I have only 1/4" clearance between the alternator and head with the alternator spaced out for the '70+ WP. I wonder if Edelbrock changed the machining in some way.
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I simply don't have 3/4" room between the head and alternator as it is right now. Any help with this would be appreciated as I already have clearance issues with the WP snout. Also, I would like the WP outlet on the other side but that means changing the radiator.
 
I couldn't get the pullies to line up with the E-Heads. I have only 1/4" clearance between the alternator and head with the alternator spaced out for the '70+ WP. I wonder if Edelbrock changed the machining in some way.
View attachment 1716233578
I simply don't have 3/4" room between the head and alternator as it is right now. Any help with this would be appreciated as I already have clearance issues with the WP snout. Also, I would like the WP outlet on the other side but that means changing the radiator.
I run a round back alternator, a longer slotted alternator bracket, and longer belt so alternator swings up and over to clear the head. Other triangular shaped alternator bracket is original to my car. The longer slotted bracket was some chrome universal bracket I bent to shape and painted black. Highly unlikely head casting have changed. Even though my alternator sticks out and is higher not something anyone else notices.

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Great story.
I should have inquired about my grandpa's neighbors 68 340S car.
The owner passed away and had alot of E-bodies that the widow slowly sold off.
The 340S car sit there for over a year, and one day it was gone.'
She got tired of it sitting in the driveway, and gave it away, last time I saw it was at Carlisle with a 10,500 price tag on the windsheild.
Nothing had changed at all on the car.
 
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