69 Barracuda Front Drum Question.

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Moparaley

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Just picked up a new project a couple of weeks ago. 69 Barracuda Formulas S 383 4pseed car. Has the original power front drums or so I thought. Haven't seen this before. The RH side drum has the studs and bearings in drum as they pull off the spindle when removed as I would expect. The LH side has the studs in an assembly in a similar configuration to the rears. The drum looks like a rear. LH spindle has an assembly that retains the studs and bearings.

What do I have here and which is correct for my application?

Thanks.
 
Originally the studs were "swedged" which is another word for "rivet," basically. You must remove the swedge area off the studs to separate the drum and hub, or cut off or drill out the studs. There is really no good reason to have them so. Leaving it "loose" like the rears causes no problems

This guy is using a 5/8" hole saw as a "swedge cutter"

http://www.sweptline.org/forums/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=34020
 

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Originally the studs were "swedged" which is another word for "rivet," basically. You must remove the swedge area off the studs to separate the drum and hub, or cut off or drill out the studs. There is really no good reason to have them so. Leaving it "loose" like the rears causes no problems

This guy is using a 5/8" hole saw as a "swedge cutter"

http://www.sweptline.org/forums/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=34020

I see. 3 inch studs have been added to that LH side where the RH side still has the standard length studs. On the RH side, can I just press those short studs out and put my long ones in? That must be why the LH side hub is now separate from the drum. Those studs have been changed.
 
pressing them out can distort the drum if hub isn't supported properly. Might ruin the hole in the hub too. To have a stud spin in the hub is a bad day. Swedge cutter is the best way.
If I was replacing the studs anyway, I might consider grinding the stud heads away and knocking the studs on through.
 
pressing them out can distort the drum if hub isn't supported properly. Might ruin the hole in the hub too. To have a stud spin in the hub is a bad day. Swedge cutter is the best way.
If I was replacing the studs anyway, I might consider grinding the stud heads away and knocking the studs on through.






My plan is to replace the studs with longer ones. What's the best way to separate the hub from the drum? It appears my LH side has been done that way already. They just didn't do the RH side for some reason.
 
most common reason for a difference at the left, because there was a difference. someone wasn't aware of left hand threads there and fecked them up.
 
most common reason for a difference at the left, because there was a difference. someone wasn't aware of left hand threads there and fecked them up.


No these were done for drag racing. The studs have to be visible thru the lug nuts. All the others have long but the RH side. I suspect something happened there and the previous owner just didn't put the longs back in or had to replace the hub/drum for some reason.
 
best way is up to you, grind off the head of the stud from the inside or remove the swedge that holds the drum to the hub from the outside.

If you press the stud out with out removal of the swedge you will ruin the knurl inside the hub & create another issue.

I have a hub or 2 given to me by my overzealous friend who did not remove the swedge & the hubs are now paper weights unless I want to weld in oversized units. Lawrence
 
best way is up to you, grind off the head of the stud from the inside or remove the swedge that holds the drum to the hub from the outside.

If you press the stud out with out removal of the swedge you will ruin the knurl inside the hub & create another issue.

I have a hub or 2 given to me by my overzealous friend who did not remove the swedge & the hubs are now paper weights unless I want to weld in oversized units. Lawrence

So, I would say for me grinding the head off the stud on the inside would be the way or I have a buddy of mine who has access to a mill. He could just mill the head off. When I get the head milled or ground off I can then tap the studs out from the inside out, correct? As previously stated, the swedge is like a rivet curl and will not allow the stud to go outside in.

Will this also allow the hub to separate from the drum at that point?

Thanks.
 
So, I would say for me grinding the head off the stud on the inside would be the way or I have a buddy of mine who has access to a mill. He could just mill the head off. When I get the head milled or ground off I can then tap the studs out from the inside out, correct? As previously stated, the swedge is like a rivet curl and will not allow the stud to go outside in.

Will this also allow the hub to separate from the drum at that point?

Thanks.



IMO, Got the mill, mill 'em off an push 'em out.

As far as the drum it depends on the rust after the lugs are out.
 
IMO, Got the mill, mill 'em off an push 'em out.

As far as the drum it depends on the rust after the lugs are out.

I agree. Cranking up the mill to get the studs out and mill the faces off the lug nuts when they get here.

Thanks for the input !
 
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