69 Dart 340 Swinger

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George R

George R

Mopar Nutcase
Joined
Oct 29, 2007
Messages
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Location
Trumbull, CT
This weekend I worked on the trunk, stripping off the last 2 paint jobs, including the factory Gold Poly. Here is the bare floor.

The last picture shows where I also found black semi-gloss paint under the fuel tank pad to verify that the car had a black painted undercarriage from the factory.

Thanks for lookin!
Here are the pix..........
George

trunk floor 001 (Small).jpg


trunk floor 002 (Small).jpg


trunk floor 003 (Small).jpg


trunk floor 004 (Small).jpg


trunk floor 005 (Small).jpg
 
Thanks Guys.
Adam, I used Aircraft Stripper. The **** is POWERFUL, but it works like a charm. I used 2 gallons on the 1990 Dodge W250 you saw yesterday, and I'm on my second gallon on this car too. Its about $25 a gallon at the auto paint store.

Good seeing you yesterday. Good luck with the new Dart.

George
 
I used that stripper too. My neighbors thought I was cleaning up a toxic waste spill the way I was dressed. Don`t let that stuff contact your skin,WOW! Looking good George! Well done!
 
that striper does a great job is that brushed on scraped off and the spot rust how do you rid the car of that sorry for simple questions just never done it before what does that stuff do to bondo? just curious car does look good
 
Two 70--

Yes, the stripper is brushed on, allowed to sit, then scraped with different sized puddy knives until it is mostly gone. Sometimes a light second coat is necessary. After that, you can use steel wool, or scotchbrite pads to get the last of it off. Then a water rinse to neutralize the stripper. Once that is done, and the car is dried, you can wash the area with lacqure thinner and a rag, or use Prepsal like I do.
The stripper will soften and remove plastic filler if it isn't too thick. It removed all the seam sealer in the trunk. I didn't care because I have a few tubes of seam sealer for a caulk gun and will reseal all the seams on the whole car once I have the whole thing in etch primer.
I didn't yet treat those rust spots, but I will simply use Naval Jelly because it is only small areas I'll be working with. If it was a large rusty area, a beadblaster might be in order.

Thanks for the kind words guys.

George
 
Looking good George !! You have got everything cleaned up nice.
I have used that stuff before and it will eat a pair of rubber cloves up!

it would not hurt to where a face shield!! That stuff can do some bad damage to an eye that can't be fixed. You want to Keep a close eye on the tools you use to scape it off with,
Don't want some one coming in your work area
and get curious!! "or how ever that word is spelt!@#"
Nice work Goerge, I bet you are glad that part is behind you:iconbigg:
 
Mike--

I am so glad! That was the last big part of the resto that needed to be stripped. I am getting kinda tired of stripping paint! LOL

Long gone--

Yep! The car will be the factory Y4 Gold Poly, with black interior, and black Bumblebee stripe as original! I never owned a gold car before so it will be something different for me.

George
 
George R said:
Mike--

I am so glad! That was the last big part of the resto that needed to be stripped. I am getting kinda tired of stripping paint! LOL

Long gone--

Yep! The car will be the factory Y4 Gold Poly, with black interior, and black Bumblebee stripe as original! I never owned a gold car before so it will be something different for me.

George
Click to expand...

SWEET COMBO!
 
Here is the trunk with self etch primer. I forgot to remove the upper shock mounting hardware, so I'll have to take those bolts off and strip the paint.
Otherwise it came out pretty nice. I don't know if I'm going to spend a lot of time filling in the pits on the floor or not.....

George

trunk floor 2 014 (Small).jpg


trunk floor 2 015 (Small).jpg


trunk floor 2 016 (Small).jpg


trunk floor 2 017 (Small).jpg
 
I finished blocking the hi build primer, and shot another coat of primer. Once the car is back together (I still need to do one door and the trunk lid) I'll reassemble the car and block it one more time.

Question. I plan to paint the undercarriage semi-gloss black. Should I paint the body (gold) first then the undercarriage, or the other way around. I'd hate to get overspray on either part, but looking for advice.

Thanks,
George

etch primer & door 001 (Small).jpg


etch primer & door 002 (Small).jpg


etch primer & door 003 (Small).jpg


etch primer & door 004 (Small).jpg


etch primer & door 005 (Small).jpg


etch primer & door 006 (Small).jpg


etch primer & door 007 (Small).jpg


etch primer & door 008 (Small).jpg
 
I agree, I would paint the floors first.

Did you block it with the doors off ? I just re hung my fenders and haven't pulled the doors to finish my jams because I figured it would be easier with the doors on.

That car is solid looking ! Did you do any rust repair on it ?
 
I agree, I will do the floor undercarriage first, then give an honest attempt at masking it prior to finish body paint.

Adam, the bodywork for the most part was done when I got the car, but it sat for 2 years before I bought it so I had to go through it. All bodywork was to fix dents and door dings etc. I did block the original high build with the doors on the car, but when I removed the doors I blocked them a little more on the table because it was easier to see at the bottom of the doors. Once the car is all gray, I'll shoot a guide coat and hit it once more.

There is no rust on this car anywhere. It must have spent its whole life in California (built in the LA plant) before coming to PA in 2005.

I really wish you would stop by here sometime and see the car. I would love to show it to you, and also pick your brain a little. I'll be home all day today if you have any spare time.
261-7471

Thanks guys!

George
 
Nice work George,you are lucky to have such a solid body to work with,my 69 project body was a lot rougher with many rusted out sections to deal with but I guess thats on par for car spending its life in Ontario Can.,the good thing was it was complete with nothing missing.
Keep up the great work and I will be watching the progress that will help me along with my resto.
 
Goerge, I'll come out one weekend soon. Last weekend I spent hanging cabinets in the garage and cleaning, This weekend I have family coming.
 
Skip-
The ONLY reason I bought this car is because there was no rust on it, and its a numbers motor/trans 340. I never would have gone through the BS of getting a trailer and going to PA from CT to get a car unless it was special. I was just going to buy one locally and do my thing with it. Actually I wanted a 383 hotrod 69 Dart, and I ended up chasing numbers again! LOL I just got out of Corvettes after 25 years in the hobby because I'm sick of the numbers game, but this is a real car, and I just don't have the heart to do anything but a correct resto with it. Once I sell this car, I'll build my hotrod.
Thanks for the kind words, and I'll keep the pix coming. I have a lot of sub assemblies I can post pix of that have been restored already.
I have been following your car too, and taking notes as well!

Adam-
You are welcome here anytime buddy. Just call ahead on any weekend to make sure I'm home. I live right near the intersection of RT25 & RT111 in Trumbull if you want to Google it. I'm walking distance from there. You have my number. Bring the kids too if you want, my boys will keep them company.

George
 
George R said:
Mike--

I am so glad! That was the last big part of the resto that needed to be stripped. I am getting kinda tired of stripping paint! LOL

Long gone--

Yep! The car will be the factory Y4 Gold Poly, with black interior, and black Bumblebee stripe as original! I never owned a gold car before so it will be something different for me.

George
Click to expand...

Nice car/work.
My Dart is FY4,and will be the same after a re-paint.I have the same intentions with color/interior/stripe.

Picture 414.jpg
 
Johnny-
Nice looking Dart. I wish mine was a vinyl top car. I think it really sets off the body lines on these cars.
I have some of the drip rail trim, but I still need the two A pillar pieces, and the drivers side roof rail piece. I have the pass side roof piece, and the 2 corner pieces.
If I can't have a vinyl top, at least I can put the drip rail trim on!
I'm also collecting all of the vinyl top trim for my next car. I have the 4 pieces for across the rear of the top above the trunk.

George
 
Thanks George.

It is funny about these cars.The guy that has the vinyl top car wants to remove it and visa versa.LOL

Again very nice work your doing.

John
 
Johnny Dart said:
Thanks George.

It is funny about these cars.The guy that has the vinyl top car wants to remove it and visa versa.LOL

Again very nice work your doing.

John
Click to expand...

Mine has a Vinyl top, Wish it didnt, LOL But Im going to need it when I weld up the after market sunroof some one put in it.
 
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