69 Dart Hemi Swap

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69 Drt CH

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Juniata Nebraska
Good morning gents. I am currently in process of installing a turbo on my hemi swapped dart. Im looking for pictures to see where you guys who have boosted applications are mounting your turbos, mine is just a single turbo set up. Just looking for ideas. I have my headers built but cant decide which side or which direction to place the turbo. Any pictures would be greatly appreciated, thanks.
 
The old motor is currently sitting in the car for mock up. It broke a valve spring this summer and gobbled a valve. So stripped it down to just a bare block and heads for mock up purposes.

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"Gents". While I appreciate the compliment, you're givin us way too much credit. lol

Nice project!
 
Wherever you put it, I believe a can opener and shoe horn will need to be used.
 
Very true on the inner fenders. I think I have settled in on the passenger side facing the radiator support. snaking the down pipe in-between the trans and subframe.
 
The old motor is currently sitting in the car for mock up. It broke a valve spring this summer and gobbled a valve. So stripped it down to just a bare block and heads for mock up purposes.

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Please excuse the Hijack... But seeing your setup here, has given me a slight glimmer of hope.

I'm thinking real hard on swapping a 5-7 into my 69.. I did 5.7/8HP70 swap in my 64 A100 truck earlier this year and man, what a blast that it is to drive now. And so reliable! It just works.

I have factory AC in mine and would love it IF I could retain it. Looking at your setup, it almost looks like it just might clear. I also see that you have retained heat, blower motor and the wiper motor.. I see so many deleted. I have PS and Pb as well. I may just have to go with electric ps to simplify things. But I really believe that AC might clear with whatever setup your running.. might have to shift forward just a tad if possible. Also, I'm not sure if there are other intakes that would allow more clearance for AC fittings. Just starting into the research so...

Would you mind telling me your setup? K member, mounts etc.. Running headers or cast? Is you alternator relocated?

Thanks for any info
 
Please excuse the Hijack... But seeing your setup here, has given me a slight glimmer of hope.

I'm thinking real hard on swapping a 5-7 into my 69.. I did 5.7/8HP70 swap in my 64 A100 truck earlier this year and man, what a blast that it is to drive now. And so reliable! It just works.

I have factory AC in mine and would love it IF I could retain it. Looking at your setup, it almost looks like it just might clear. I also see that you have retained heat, blower motor and the wiper motor.. I see so many deleted. I have PS and Pb as well. I may just have to go with electric ps to simplify things. But I really believe that AC might clear with whatever setup your running.. might have to shift forward just a tad if possible. Also, I'm not sure if there are other intakes that would allow more clearance for AC fittings. Just starting into the research so...

Would you mind telling me your setup? K member, mounts etc.. Running headers or cast? Is you alternator relocated?

Thanks for any info
Sorry for the late response, its been a busy month. So the K member is custom along with mounts and headers. I hear a lot of guys are using jeep commander manifolds. I built my own long tube headers using 3/8 flanges I designed and cut on our laser at work and then I bought a 2" mandrel piece kit from ebay and started cutting and welding. The k member is an original slanty k member that was in the car, I cut it apart and mounted a manual rack for steering to give me more room for headers. The alternator is in the factory spot for a car timing cover. It has an a/c p/s delete pulley on there at the moment but I plan to install air at some point. The motor had an unexpected spontaneous disassembly do to a faulty valve spring so things are getting all changed around now. Long tubes are gone, I built some turbo logs, going back to manual brakes with a dakota master, the motor is a different block, same rotating assemble plus one drop in piston rod combo, eagle heads, custom push rods, car intake with an 80mm single turbo. Hopefully the car is back on line here in the next month or so. I am shooting for some drag n drive events this next year. I will attach photos from my phone.

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Sorry for the late response, its been a busy month. So the K member is custom along with mounts and headers. I hear a lot of guys are using jeep commander manifolds. I built my own long tube headers using 3/8 flanges I designed and cut on our laser at work and then I bought a 2" mandrel piece kit from ebay and started cutting and welding. The k member is an original slanty k member that was in the car, I cut it apart and mounted a manual rack for steering to give me more room for headers. The alternator is in the factory spot for a car timing cover. It has an a/c p/s delete pulley on there at the moment but I plan to install air at some point. The motor had an unexpected spontaneous disassembly do to a faulty valve spring so things are getting all changed around now. Long tubes are gone, I built some turbo logs, going back to manual brakes with a dakota master, the motor is a different block, same rotating assemble plus one drop in piston rod combo, eagle heads, custom push rods, car intake with an 80mm single turbo. Hopefully the car is back on line here in the next month or so. I am shooting for some drag n drive events this next year. I will attach photos from my phone.

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Just curious... shouldn't each header tube coming from the exhaust port sweep in the direction of the exhaust exit instead of running into a T?
 
Yes in that would be most desirable but with limited space this is the configuration I came up with. There are several manifolds on the market that intersect this way, thats where I got the idea from.
 
Ok. Thanks. I can see it looks tight for sure.
 
Ok. Thanks. I can see it looks tight for sure.
YA it is tight for sure. I wish I had the room to come out and down, if I had taken more time I am sure it might have turned out a little better but I am trying to et the motor back in the car so I can get it over to storage before the snow flies, so I can free up some shop space for paying jobs.
 
That fuel pump pick up plate is beautiful. Did you machine that whole deal?
As far as turbo mounting, for a single, most put them up front just behind the passenger headlight.
 
That fuel pump pick up plate is beautiful. Did you machine that whole deal?
As far as turbo mounting, for a single, most put them up front just behind the passenger headlight.
Thank you! I bought a billet 6" solid stock slab on amazon and machined it, along with the fuel pump hanger mount out of flat billet. Took some doing but it was far cheaper than buying one, plus its drilled for a joint passage to accommodate two pumps. I used dalron for the wire pass through insulators. I built a 30 gal aluminum fuel cell to go in the trunk. I need fuel compacity to do the drag n drive events coming up this next year.
 
I see a fender exit down pipe in the near future. :thumbsup:
 
Actually its going to wrap back around and shoot down through the space above the k frame next to the starter and connect to a y pipe and into the original pipes an mufflers
Boooo
 
Go watch season 6 episode 15 of engine masters.
 
I know its not as cool as having side exit exhaust but it will be a daily and I will be participating in a couple drag n drive events next year so I dont want to have the noise or the exhaust smell inside the car.
 
Really I’m just messing with you. For a driver, drag n drive car you’re doing the right thing. The appeal of a quiet, full exhaust turbo car has always intrigued me but I just can’t stick a muffler behind one knowing how easily it can kill a bunch of power. Use a good straight through set of mufflers and free flowing mandrel bent tubing and you’ll be fine.
 
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