69 Notch Barracuda - Rebirth

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Also measured for a new/used driveshaft. Yoke bottomed out in trans, U-joint center to U-joint Center minus 1”...

But now I’m wondering.. is it the center of where the U-joint caps WILL be, or the centers of the cups at the front (C) and the rear yoke cup (reverse C). Dr. Diff’s website information is unclear on this.

Hmmm...

My FSM says 48.60”, but my measurement from theoretical U-joint cap center to center - 1 in. Came out to exactly 1” longer at 49.62”. I have an aftermarket trans yoke from Brewers.

Great info on this FABO link.

This all prompted me to remeasure from center to center of caps. This time I got the factory specified length of 48.60” (after subtracting 1”)

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Found a driveline specialty shop within a mile of me in Anoka, Mn... AA Driveline Specialties Inc. They had a good driveshaft on-hand for me. They also confirmed my measurements, etc... then cut it down, welded it to my specified length, then balanced it to my Brewers yoke... then finished it off with some nice satin black, and a set of Spicer solid u-joints. All in about one day... $250. Looks great!

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Driveshaft went in perfectly.

Installed since:
-new battery
-22” radiator and hoses
-heater hoses
-17” Derale fixed fan - Not nearly enough room for a clutch fan (even the Hayden 2947)... maybe in the next phase
-Throttle cable bracket (modified for better alignment)
-Throttle return spring and bracket
-Power steering line and return hose
-Front wheels and tires
-one valve cover gasket
-Fluids (minus 4spd gearbox... hopefully tomorrow)

On the way:
-Black 14” ‘440 4 Barrel’ air cleaner
-black chrome breather caps

Hopefully tomorrow I’ll get to start her up and:
-check for leaks
-top off fluids
-check Pressures and gauge functions
-listen to the open headers
:thumbsup::steering:

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Had a pretty large oil leak that SEEMED to be coming from the dipstick tube... which really was weighing on me. And some leakage around the oil pan. But, turned out to be coming about 90% from the only valve cover that I’ve cracked into so far (drivers side obviously). So.. tidy’d up the distributor/coil/ballast wiring with some Alex Tech sheathing, retorqued oil pan, valve cover, and power steering lines... and also had a bit of coolant leakage... simple retorque of clamps.... and basically no more leaks (just running in the garage).

That was enough to give me the green light to pull her out and drive around the block A few times to see how things felt and reacted to input.

Wow. It went amazingly well. The clutch and transmission behaved like perfect litter mates, the power steering was smooth... the alignment, which I thought was going to be a complete disaster, was impeccable, even though the pass side strut rod is bent about an inch out of straight (someone obviously thought it would be a solid place for a jack or jack stand).

I still need to verify total timing, double check that all cyls are firing... then start looking at the Thermoquad. Seems to run a little rough. I do have a freshly rebuilt and dyno tested Holley 4150 HP HO 750 DP that I could bolt on as well, but just not sure I want to go that way yet. I’ve read that the TQ is no slouch when tuned properly.

Seat belts go back in next... then the replacement strut rod, maybe a couple of bushings, then alignment. I love that I can drive it around the block any time I want now :thumbsup:.





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One of my early touch-of-acceleration tests :) I've done quite a few more "tests" with an increasingly heavier foot since then.
All is going extremely well. Chasing a few minor gremlins... like a nonfunctioning fuel gauge and odometer, etc...
 
New gauges (Summit) this weekend...

waiting on the upper radiator hose adaptor (With sensor port) for the water temp, but otherwise, all went well. Swapped in a copper tubing kit for the oil psi gauge.

Oil psi is at 70 on cold idle and about 40 hot running temp. Pretty standard on an older, warn motor... from what I’m reading on fabo. Also ordered a new speedo cable.

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Installed 1 1/2” lowering blocks and bought and installed a primo ‘67 Barr rear seat duo ($200) that I found on a local Facebook marketplace.

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When you get it all sorted, are you going to take it all back apart for paint? I love that 69 sunfire yellow. I plan on using that on my 67 notch.

My plan is to drive it “greasy” for a years, then Upgrade cam, intake, and carb.... then a couple of years later maybe tear everything down for paint and give it a whole new look. Not sure though. I’d really love to bring back the black vinyl top that was long gone when I bought it... and maybe a root beer brown metallic flake paint job.
 
2 1/2” TTI H-Pipe and Magnaflow 11226 Mufflers. I originally bought Borla XR-1 mufflers, but realized too late that TTI’s System was designed for offset mufflers (slaps forehead).

When all was said and done, I’m really pissed that I didn’t just have a custom system made. I paid several hundred more in having an exhaust specialist install the “kit” from TTI. Anyway... another lesson learned for next time!

I miss the sound of the open headers, and what it MAY have sounded like with the straight thru, no turns Borlas, but I really love the mellow growl of the Magnaflows... and I no longer feel like I have to wait until 10am to fire up my car :welcome:.

 
I just stumbled on your thread this morning. It was a great read. Congrats on getting the job done. Sometimes we have to just step back from a project and take a break. Your posts really drive home how tight of a fit the 440 is in an A body. My ultimate dream car would be to have an original M code 'Cuda...... notch of course.
 
I just stumbled on your thread this morning. It was a great read. Congrats on getting the job done. Sometimes we have to just step back from a project and take a break. Your posts really drive home how tight of a fit the 440 is in an A body. My ultimate dream car would be to have an original M code 'Cuda...... notch of course.

Agreed! Thanks for the comment... very much appreciated. I did all of this for the first time, so it’s been quite an adventure, and learning experience that probably wouldn’t have happened without all of the help I received along the way.

Happy 4th and stay healthy!
 
2 1/2” TTI H-Pipe and Magnaflow 11226 Mufflers. I originally bought Borla XR-1 mufflers, but realized too late that TTI’s System was designed for offset mufflers (slaps forehead).

When all was said and done, I’m really pissed that I didn’t just have a custom system made. I paid several hundred more in having an exhaust specialist install the “kit” from TTI. Anyway... another lesson learned for next time!

I miss the sound of the open headers, and what it MAY have sounded like with the straight thru, no turns Borlas, but I really love the mellow growl of the Magnaflows... and I no longer feel like I have to wait until 10am to fire up my car :welcome:.





I like the sound, I got the polished version of these same mufflers, hope my 360 sounds this good
 
thanks for the sound of the Magnaflows, i was trying to decide what to put on my valiant and these sound perfect. i've got 2-1/2in TTi with the Dynomax mufflers they supply. they have the craziest drone from 800- 1200 rpm, and it freaking resonates with everything it's parked next to.
 
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