70 Duster T5 Swap

[txstang84]

The biggest differences between the WC and NWC T5s are the swap from bronze blocker rings to composite lined steel blockers, and preloaded tapered needle bearings as opposed to roller bearing sets. Beyond that, it's gear ratios, input shaft measurements, and tail housing dimensions.

There are MANY variations of the T5 starting in the early 70s with the Cosworth Vega, up to the mid 90s behind V6 Mustangs and S10s. The Mustang WC T5s are some of the easiest to acquire and modify because more Mustang guys modified their T5s more than pretty much any other vehicle that came with them standard equipment, so the aftermarket is flush with good upgrade parts (Astro performance and the gearbox.org are the two where I bought parts to modify mine).

Realistcally, you can buy one from D&D performance and it'll take some abuse, but if you're really in need of a beefy gearbox behind a stout small block, you're much better off going TKO or T56. The only/biggest downside to either of them are notchy shift action. If you can get past that, they're much more resilient gearboxes. T5s biggest advantages hover around light weight (about 76 lbs) and smooth shifting...and by comparison they're cheap.

 

[PartsAndProjects]

Over Easter weekend I pulled the auto out of the Duster and started getting everything ready for the 5 spd swap.

Here is a list of parts that I am using:

Ford clutch kit - Perfection MU Series Clutches MU48-1

AFCO master cylinder - AFCO Racing 6620110

Rod end for the master - Summit Racing® Rod Ends SUM-MSF5

Quick time bell - QuickTime Bellhousings RM-6071 OUCH

Mopar pilot bushing for the conversion - BCA FC69907

Taller ford transmission mount - Anchor Industries 2784 Anchor Industries Transmission Mounts | Summit Racing

Clutch line - AFCO Racing 40280 AFCO Racing Clutch Slave Hose Kits | Summit Racing

External slave bracket - DazeCars, For Sale Page

Slave cylinder - Speedway Push-Type Clutch Release Slave Cylinder

Last week one of the tool makers at work helped me redrill my flywheel for the ford clutch and drilled my new quick time bellhousing for the ford clutch fork ball pivot.



The mopar pilot bushing housing fit the crank just right, but the mustang pilot bearing was too small to press into the housing that I pressed the Mopar bearing out of. So I found a brass bushing that was close and had Bob turn it down to fit for me.



Got the center console pulled out to see what I had to do to cut the brackets out, but leave marks of how they were in case I ever want to go back to the auto.


I also got the clutch and brake pedals in last night. Hopefully I'll have the master cylinder in tonight. More to come!

EDIT: Photobucket died so I'm reuploading the pictures but they may not be in order and the same spots. I apologize for this.
View attachment 1715155524 View attachment 1715155525 View attachment 1715155526 View attachment 1715155527 View attachment 1715155528 View attachment 1715155529 View attachment 1715155530 View attachment 1715155531 View attachment 1715155532

Hi! I'm working on this swap now with same bellhousing. What ended up working for you for a pilot bearing? Does the mopar part referenced work? Thanks!

 

[70DusterDev]

Hi! I'm working on this swap now with same bellhousing. What ended up working for you for a pilot bearing? Does the mopar part referenced work? Thanks!

Sorry for the way late response! But if I can remember correctly, no. I had to turn the outside of that conversion bushing down to fit. But I really dont remember. By now I'm sure something is available.

 

[slant six]

Here's what We did for slant 6's -
*5---Crankshaft Pocket / Input Bearing Interface:
Get one of these Mustang / Ford Pilot Bearing Assembly's : Timken FC68329 or equivalent (for use with that 0.670"Ø Input Shaft)

*Depending on what Slant 6 Crank you have.. get an Adapter Ring Made like this.. It allows the Small register slant Crank or Large Register Slant crank to use the Bearing Package in this documentation. I will put a technical drawing together later on and post it.

Large Pocket Crank: (1968-1987) Production Cranks:
Input Bearing adapter Ring
OD = ~1.817
ID = ~1.378
Depth = ~1" ( can me milled down if your Input shaft on the Trans is Longer)

The Whole Shebang gets Pressed into the adapter straightaway out of the box! Easy.

Large Pocket Ring Adapter OD:

Large Pocket Ring Adapter ID:

Depth for Small pocket or Large Pocket Adapters:

 

[slant six]

Remember the ↑↑↑Above↑↑↑ was for a slant 6 - Check the dimensions of any LA/ A / B / RB Engine before making the adapter for your engine, but the same concept should work.