Clutch fork "neutral" position

[Matt K.]

Hello everyone, I am doing an a833 swap into my 904 equipped slant six 1975 dart. Because I am dead broke and cannot afford all the clutch linkage parts, I have opted to use a Datsun hydraulic slave cylinder and a heavily used Tilton brake master cylinder. I am currently designing a mount for the slave cylinder but I need to know the "neutral" position of the clutch fork to properly position the cylinder. Can someone send me a picture of their a833's clutch fork at rest, and if possible, a picture fully pushed in? Pictures with measurements / angles would be preferable.
Thank you for your help.

 

[67Dart273]

Uh, AHEM. That's why the original pushrods were adjustable. The correct answer is, you need "some" play so that the T/O can retract from the clutch when engaged. This is going to depend on the thickness of the clutch disc, the type of pressure plate, and even what fork / bellhousing you use. I don't know of any way to do it other than to put it together, maybe rig some shims that you can insert between the clutch fingers and fork to establish a "firm" measurement point, and then build an adustable mount/ pushrod from there.

The shims EG could be scrap pieces of almost any material, with a large "U" cutout large enough to go round the transmission retainer sleeve, between the pp fingers and the fork. That will provide a "rigid" platform so you can measure from the outer end of the fork. The other issue you are gonna have, with a master/ slave from a smaller vehicle, is, "is the throw" (of the slave) long enough?

I don't know about the slants, but any V8 sticks I'v had, the pushrod has maybe?? 2" of thread adjustment, and the rod not being in use pokes to the rear through a big special rubber grommet through the hole in the fork.

Random example out of the 72 Plymouth manual

 

[Inertia]

Ive fabbed a few hydraulic clutches in several style of vehicles.
Just a coupla things for you to consider.

There's not much room from firewall to inner fender.
Remote reservoirs can be a blessing.

I usually end up with the Asian slave bolts thru a length of angle iron with slots for adjustments with whatever nec bracketry to get it lined up.

I usually leave the bellhousing stuff till last, when everythings in it's place

 

[Muswagon]

I have a brand new American Powertrain kit that I stole the bearing from, as I ended buying a Malwood.

I will sell it to you cheap... will make your life alot easier

This is what it looks like. The bearing is gone and so is the collar spacer, I tried to crop that out too but I am a moron when it comes to 'puters...

Anyway, let me know. $130 shipped

 

[Scody21]

You also should look at the travel of the slave to ensure it has enough travel to move the fork to engage / disengage the clutch.. most diaphragm clutches take less travel / force than a B&B clutch.

 

[Matt K.]

So, I have already have a clutch master cylinder mounted in the car, I have a brake pedal setup that (with the master cylinder) pushes the slave cylinder the distance that it needs to move the fork to engage/disengage the clutch. I am only asking if someone has a picture that shows the clutch fork in a neutral position in an a833 equipped dart. I just need the picture to reference, all I have left to do for the system is design and fabricate a mounting bracket for the slave cylinder.

 

[Scody21]

Your throw out bearing should have .100-.150 clearance from the fingers when disengaged. So depending on the height of the T/O bearing your using, will dictate where the fork arm will be on the outside of the bell.

 

[67Dart273]

So, I have already have a clutch master cylinder mounted in the car, I have a brake pedal setup that (with the master cylinder) pushes the slave cylinder the distance that it needs to move the fork to engage/disengage the clutch. I am only asking if someone has a picture that shows the clutch fork in a neutral position in an a833 equipped dart. I just need the picture to reference, all I have left to do for the system is design and fabricate a mounting bracket for the slave cylinder.

I think what you are missing, is, that we cannot answer that question with a photo. The "position" you are referring to is right or wrong in about 1/8--1/4 of an inch of fork travel. As I said earlier, you could take some maybe 1/8 material cut a "U" so you can slip it up in front of the TO and gently move the fork so it is against the material. Then measure the fork outer lever distance to a reference point, say, the pushrod socket of the slave. You need to make that rod ADJUSTABLE so that you can adjust it more precisely when you get done.

THAT DIMENSION will be different depending on what particular clutch cover and disc you use (thickness variation) AND WILL CHANGE with clutch disc wear. You may have to re-adjust it later to provide more play, as the disk wear will LESSEN the fork clearance with use.