71 4dr Dart 318 w 4bbl

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An alternative to headers would be 340 exhaust manifolds or 92 - 93 magnum manifolds. RRR might be available to build you a drop on TQ...
 
Off hand have the part number for the thermoquad carb I should look for? See a variety for sale...

You can't seriously be considering using a theroquad carb! That carb was made to comply with emission standards introduced in the 1970s. It was designed to run at over 200 deg f at its center body and have the fuel bowl part much cooler so the gas would't boil. In order to run this carb it will have to be modified by someone that knows what their doing. Why? Get an Edelbrock 650 spread bore, you'll be much happier.
And by the way, rule of thumb, never put a used cam from another engine in anything. They will usualy self destruct in a short time. New lifters won't help. Used cams have only scrap value, even if they look perfict.
 
Magiver-
If not the thermo... Toss me some ideas on my HP 360 intake. Or even w replacing the intake too.

Thanks!

Btw I just got car and going through what's here. First mopar... First engine build
As above... Got the HP 360 manifold and a Carter Chevy 4bbl on an adapter. I believe all else to be stock....
 
You can't seriously be considering using a theroquad carb! That carb was made to comply with emission standards introduced in the 1970s. It was designed to run at over 200 deg f at its center body and have the fuel bowl part much cooler so the gas would't boil. In order to run this carb it will have to be modified by someone that knows what their doing. Why? Get an Edelbrock 650 spread bore, you'll be much happier.
And by the way, rule of thumb, never put a used cam from another engine in anything. They will usualy self destruct in a short time. New lifters won't help. Used cams have only scrap value, even if they look perfict.

Ever run a good one? 650, why would I give up at least 100cfm?
 
You can't seriously be considering using a theroquad carb! That carb was made to comply with emission standards introduced a in the 1970s. It was designed to run at over 200 deg f at its center body and have the fuel bowl part much cooler so the gas would't boil. In order to run this carb it will have to be modified by someone that knows what their doing. Why? Get an Edelbrock 650 spread bore, you'll be much happier.
And by the way, rule of thumb, never put a used cam from another engine in anything. They will usualy self destruct in a short time. New lifters won't help. Used cams have only scrap value, even if they look perfict.
Thermoquad is harder to tune, however, Magiver, you are dead wrong about the performance. I seen in person a cast head, factory cast intake with a TQ on a 340 in an all steel Demon go high 10's. I've personally run the TQ and they perform. No, I never bought a performance kit, worked with it just as it was. However, lots more available and easier tuning with a Holley, or such. Also, I installed a stock 340 cam from an old '73 340 in a 318. That cam is still in the car today, and the car runs fine, and that was 16 years ago.
 
Magiver-
If not the thermo... Toss me some ideas on my HP 360 intake. Or even w replacing the intake too.

Thanks!

Btw I just got car and going through what's here. First mopar... First engine build
As above... Got the HP 360 manifold and a Carter Chevy 4bbl on an adapter. I believe all else to be stock....

I'm assuming that HP 360 is a cast iron 360 four barrel intake manifold? If this is correct your probably looking at a slight miss match (bigger 360 intake runner going into smaller 318 heads? ) I personally was able to find a edelbrock 318 street master at a swap meet for $ 80 . I also found a nice rebuilt 600 Holley for $ 120. It was a great combination. I had a edelbrock 600 cfm on the last 318 and was happy with it also.

Like I've been told, and also recommend- make a good plan and STAY WITH IT.

MHO-- recap--( spent a lot of money unnecessarily to get to this) 600 cfm edelbrock / holley, used aftermarket four barrel intake manifold, as big as a cam you are willing to deal with? (That's the hard decision! ), cheep summit headers ( I tried used headers and they leaked, never again, and a B & M stage 2 shift kit ( the shift kit was scary, but I followed the instructions and it turned out great)
I couldn't agree more on not using old cam or lifters just not worth it. At least get your cam re-ground with new lifters if not a new cam and lifters.
 
I did not intend to imply that the TQ carb lacked in performance. I know from experience that they do quite well. I've had 4 of them on different cars in past years. One of them I ran for more than a year before it succumbed to the one of the most common problems with them, a crack in the lower part of the plastic body. Repairing it was not cost effective.
So I ask the question why would a guy want to take the time to find a TQ, in good condition? It has been 30 years since the Thermoquad was manufactured.
 
TQ will run great on a stock motor, trouble with them is they are not tuneable in any manner close to a Holley or AFB. Thats why most if not all builders ditch them. You can tune them but its a learning curve using Modded Edelbrock rods and epoxy....360 4bbl intake is not a bad item, it just weighs 55 lbs compared to the 18 of a Aluminum intake. And whats a facination with the rhoads lifters? They are made to crutch a serious camshaft to street manners. Yuo dont need them. Cams are pretty cheap from Summit.
 
And whats a facination with the rhoads lifters? They are made to crutch a serious camshaft to street manners. Yuo dont need them..


They broaden your torque curve.


With a big cam or not, they still make an improvement.


If you don't like them, then don't run them. I like them, been running them for decades with great success.
 
Thanks for the replies and paths to read!

The cam I have is the Comp Cam 260H... Should I go more aggressive for a daily driver?
Getting New lifters and valve springs etc.
Keeping the 360 intake. Will clean up and re-gasket.
Gunna get a New 4bbl. 650cfm or greater

See the summitt headers as a good value.
And exhaust.

Shift kit... B&M stage 2... Or Recomendations for my automatic?

New gears... Thoughts? Benefits?
 
When you say daily driver, do you intend on actually driving to work, to the store-ect. Every day? Or are you going to come home from work and jump in the dart and go for a drive? And possibly sometimes look over at your passenger and say "WATCH THIS"!!!!!! ?? and maybe drive it to work sometimes to show the guys?
 
It is my primary mode of transport. 20 mi to work and back.

With occasional passenger "check this out" and occasional deserted road "leg stretching"

It will be an in town car. I'd like the ability to pass at will on freeway to make an exit... And drive 20 mi of surface streets without dying.
 
It is my primary mode of transport. 20 mi to work and back.

With occasional passenger "check this out" and occasional deserted road "leg stretching"

It will be an in town car. I'd like the ability to pass at will on freeway to make an exit... And drive 20 mi of surface streets without dying.

when you talk about passing on the freeway and stretching your legs on the highway it seems like you're more into it going a little faster at speed instead of a light to light kind of car. Whatever you do I would keep the rear end gears that you have. there are probably going to be better for passing on the freeway and stretching your legs on the highway then taking off the light. I would highly recommend a vacuum secondary Holley 600 carburetor with a heavy spring in the vacuums secondary so it will get good mileage and not kick in too early but when you need it it'll be there. maybe and mild RV cam and leave everything else alone as you want good gas mileage driveability and the ability to pass on the freeway. I would also work on stability, good low profile tires, good shocks ect. as those kind of cars were never known for good suspension at high speeds. You don't want to hit passing gear and swerve around somebody to make an exit and end up somewhere you don't want to be! My 2 cents again.

p.s.- that shift kit will have a great affect on the kick down to pass!
 
Off hand have the part number for the thermoquad carb I should look for? See a variety for sale...

I ran across this while researching some numbers. Did not read it all, but it jives with my experience with carbs.

[ame]http://www.rockcharger.com/tech/vaanth_thermo-quad_guide.txt[/ame]

Be sure to get your timing set right and check total timing with the vacuum advance plugged.
 
As a daily driver I love the iron Tquad intake, spread bore carb, and duals with that cam. I've run the older 260H and it's a great cam. Economy is all about tuing. The carbs don't know or care what they're on. The Carter AFB is a great carb, and you can get parts, and you have it. I'd keep it. Learn how to setup up your ignition timing curves, and then learn how to tune the carb. The used Weiand is nice, but you have a "good" usable for your application manifold. I'd keep that too. You will get more from a high quality (read as not MP) ignition system than an intake. Get one of those, and a strip kit for that Carter if you want to spend.
 
So I ask the question why would a guy want to take the time to find a TQ, in good condition? It has been 30 years since the Thermoquad was manufactured.

My dad runs a thermoquad on his 340 that runs like a champ, and I have one on my 318, they work very well, and are extremely tunable. I'll admit they can be a pain to find parts for, and work with, but I think its worth it.

To the OP, if you can find someone who knows how to work on a thermoquad, and rebuild them well, use it, they're good carbs.
 
Strip kit?
MSD electronic ignition on list!

Thanks for the TQ reading!

Strip kit? Good luck.

Main thing to get is a distributor that you can run initial timing at 10 degrees BTDC and be all, 35 degrees, in around 3,000 rpm or less. You do not need an MSD, there are several good options including the one you already have.
 
So back to my build. assembling a pile of parts for an upgrade.
On car now is the Carter AFB. 360 intake. Nothing done to bottom end.
leaving 360 intake i believe. scrapping the Comp 260H cam that was in trunk.

have:
headman headers 78050
summitt exhaust 680114
B&M shift kit
Holley 670cfm 4 bbl

What Lunati voodoo cam/kit should i go with? Want the most bang, but car is a daily driver.
 
What Lunati voodoo cam/kit should i go with? Want the most bang, but car is a daily driver.


For a street daily driver in a Voodoo, I would go with the 60401 here.

View attachment Lunati SB Vudu B.jpg


Then throw in a set of Rhoades lifters part # 2018

They bleed down at idle and tame out the cam a little more, giving increased idle vacuum, low end torque and power and add MPG. They fully pump up by 3500 RPM so you don't sacrifice the top end.

With a 60401 cam and Rhoades lifters, it should idle around 21" and have a strong pull from idle to red line. And you can part throttle accelerate without opening up the power valve to keep the MPG's up.

Go to the second article here to see how they work.

http://www.rhoadslifters.com/Pages/Articles.html


Here's where to buy them:

http://www.summitracing.com/search?SortBy=BestKeywordMatch&SortOrder=Ascending&keyword=rhoades 2018
 
all things same:
Noticable gains in the Lunati 60401 over the Comp 260H using the same rhodes lifters in both applications?
 
and there are rhodes originals and rhodes v-max... the v-max overkill for this application or worth the $15
 
I have always just ran the original rhoades on the street with good luck....


I think the Lunati will pull better than the comp 260, especially with rhoades lifters.


Lunati says it will have approx 19" vacuum at idle, with rhoades lifters, you should be around 21". Vacuum is velocity in the intake manifold. Velocity is torque....
 
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