TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
I feel like Ive heard that also. I have one out in the garage (AEM 30-2200) and I’ll open it and look at the destructions tomorrow.
The fuel tech sensor has fuel temp.
Flex Fuel Sensor
71 Duster 360 turbo build
- Thread starter turbovan
- Start date
-
The fuel tech sensor has fuel temp.
Flex Fuel Sensor
Sure looks an awful lot like a regular ol’ Delphi flex fuel sensor with a fuel tech sticker.
I run that same generic GM sensor on my setup. It provides both - fuel temp and ethanol composition.
I haven’t looked at my sensor setup in a while, I wonder if the Holley systems will read temp from that. Last I recall I was only getting E content. I’ll have to double check.
So I am again having trouble with sync loss out of nowhere. The sensor was tight, didn’t appear to have moved. I can’t get a great picture of my sensor mount, but it is VERY rigid so I can’t imagine that’s the issue. I replaced the sensor with a new one, and kept it at the same .026 gap I’ve been running for a year; no change. On paper, the sensor gap is too tight, but again it runs great this way…until it doesn’t.
I do see a major difference between a composite log I saved two years ago, and the one I took today. The logger showed a square wave(?) for the crank trigger in the old log, but now it appears to be just a 1/0 type signal. Maybe my pull-up resister went bad. Any ideas?
2022:
Today:
I do see a major difference between a composite log I saved two years ago, and the one I took today. The logger showed a square wave(?) for the crank trigger in the old log, but now it appears to be just a 1/0 type signal. Maybe my pull-up resister went bad. Any ideas?
2022:
Today:
Last edited:
Here is my ignition options page. I pulled up the tune from 2022, and it was the same, but I don’t trust it since I’ve had so many random changes like the injector cc’s resetting to 851cc on all 50+ tunes over 5 years.
I haven't looked at these ignition settings on mine in a long time, but here they are if it helps to compare notes. I'd say replacing the resistor is probably a good low cost troubleshooting start.
I decided to check mine today.. so in November/December my logger looked like your top one... Today it looks like the bottom one. But still runs fine, maybe it was a tunerstudio update? Kinda wierd.
That’s good to know. My laptop hasn’t seen the internet in a year, but I have definitely updated since 2022!
I spent time inspecting my crank sensor and bracket. I found a couple areas of concern, but mostly that the bracket itself can slide up/down ~.03 due to the holes themselves being slightly larger than the bolts. Gap back to .025, ignition options unchanged, and it’s back up and running.
I did a pull after fixing the cam sync, and realized only afterwards that I had loaded my spicer tune. It hooked, and it really scared me for the first time.
I did a pull after fixing the cam sync, and realized only afterwards that I had loaded my spicer tune. It hooked, and it really scared me for the first time.
Last edited:
Lol I've done that. Forgot I had boost duty cycle higher, 60mph rolling burnouts really throw you off if you aren't expecting it.
I’ve had several, squirrelly, accidental high speed burnouts. Not a fan, but…when in doubt throttle out?
This pull for whatever reason hooked and held from 60mph on, and it was a wild ride with just a twinge of locking up all 4 on the way back down lol
I saw your post on Matts440 thread the other day, and was surprised to see you were now using Speedmaster heads; went back through your turbo thread. Are your trickflow heads repairable? I’m definitely curious to see how your build does; especially with that big cam! Speedmasters handle that much lift okay or did you swap springs? Your e85 timing is also far more aggressive than mine. I’ll be checking plug straps next time I’m at the track because I’ve likely left a lot on the table.
They should be it looks like I bent a couple of valve up near the top enough that they won't come out of the head without damaging guides. Didn't even know I did it till I was fixing something else.
Yes these heads I setup for my cam, I think I have lunati springs in them now, I had specd and measure all the stuff out for the heads like 6years ago when I first ran them.
Not on e85 anymore. Using pump 91 (West Coast swill). And 16gph worth of meth nozzle. Lol. E85 is just too big a pita to get here. I think I'm pulling 1* plus of timing per psi in the table, roughly. Either way, plugs still look ok, nothing weird yet.
TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
Yea I’d say 20psi and 21 degrees is spicy. Remind me what fuel you’re using?
I don’t think I do. I see Subcom has LPH fuel flow data, but I don’t have that option
Well I just completed a move and the duster has not been happy about it. This is going to be a novel. It’s been a disaster. After months of no problems I decided to go ahead and make the 30 mile drive to the new house. 15 miles in the motor shut off, and I had to tow it the rest of the way. Crank sensor seemed to have died with no warning( I’ll save this troubleshooting fiasco for a separate post). I want to be sure that everything is running well before I switch to the MS3 so I decided to change the sensor location to get it away from the alternator as it probably should have never been there in the first place. Welded up a new bracket moving the sensor from the 2 o’clock position to ~10 o’clock on the other side of the water pump. I set the gap to .020 and rotated the motor only to find the sensor hit 90° later. Turns out the trigger wheel has a solid .02+ of runout, and it must have been this way from the start. It’s obviously been “good enough” this whole time so I found the highest tooth, marked it, and set the gap to .015. After this change I turned it over intending to get a log and it just fired right up with the most perfect composite log I’ve recorded. Took it for a drive and received zero sync loss. Success? I noticed that alternator wasn’t charging and remembered I had never tightened down the 10mm nut for the alternator output. Tightened that up, and no change so I let it sit on the charger for the night. I remembered I had left my alternator ground cable detached so the next morning I put that back on and took it for a drive(ground location marked in red). Voltage was now back, but sync loss became immense; I barely made it home from my 1 mile drive. Removed the ground and no more sync loss…but now my alternator was spiking between 14 and 15.5+ volts. Checked voltages all over, and decided I must have hurt it so a quick lifetime warranty exchange and it’s holding a solid 14.2…initially. As everything warms up the output slowly drops into the high 12’s(this is not new) so I am going to make some changes to the output wire, and also see if I can’t get some fresh air to the alternator itself as the location in regards to heat is not ideal.
Also, I don’t think I posted this, but a while back I created a secondary motor tie down to try and relieve some stress on the motor mount area of the block.
Looking for a new, single groove, crank pulley so that I can correct my trigger wheel issue. Luckily, I had two trigger wheels cut so that’s ready to go.
Also, I don’t think I posted this, but a while back I created a secondary motor tie down to try and relieve some stress on the motor mount area of the block.
Looking for a new, single groove, crank pulley so that I can correct my trigger wheel issue. Luckily, I had two trigger wheels cut so that’s ready to go.
Last edited:
Troubleshooting the crank sensor failure became its own ordeal as I allowed other “issues” to distract me. Although I was fairly certain the sensor had died, I wanted to be sure before replacing it. Composite logs did show some, erratic, readings so I messed with the gap without success. I removed the sensor and watched the tooth log while moving a piece of steel beneath it. Microsquirt picked up the reading and even kicked on the fuel pump. Sensor okay? I then noticed that offline changes I made to the tune did not trigger the initial “settings changed” prompt when connecting to the car. Thinking the firmware could have an issue, I checked for updates, found new firmware, and updated…without reading or following directions….New problem unlocked! The firmware no longer matched any of my tunes, and I spent hours over the next day attempting to import my old tune settings. Tried the old sensor. No luck. New sensor; fired up. It’s back up and running “okay,” but there are plenty of small issues to deal with. Autotune has stopped correcting my tables, time based accel enrichment is wayyy off, and PWM to my fan is only giving me about 50% fan speed so it’s getting hot. The car may be close enough to go ahead and start the MS3 project, but I would prefer to have all these issues resolved before I potentially create more.
Replaced my Toyota 60amp alternator with a 240amp GM 10si style alternator and voltage has never been better. Very close in size too. Troubleshooting done and moving forward with MS3pro project. Looking to mount my electronics just ahead of the shifter. Also planning on:
-Replacing factory fuse box/harness
-New fiberglass dash
-Electric power steering
-Connect roll bar to firewall/inner fender bracing
-Possibly adding a heat exchanger to my air/water system and doing away with the ice box.
-Replacing factory fuse box/harness
-New fiberglass dash
-Electric power steering
-Connect roll bar to firewall/inner fender bracing
-Possibly adding a heat exchanger to my air/water system and doing away with the ice box.
-
Similar threads
- Locked
