72 Duster build - Pro touring slant six

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I think it's amazing you've left it a slant 6 car and are happy with it. Didn't you say elsewhere in the thread you plan to do a V8 swap? Either way, it's a nice car and you've done a great job on it. I'd have to leave it slant 6 powered just to be different. lol

There's something nice about having a simple cruiser. It definitely could use a little more power but its fun to putt around in.

I do have a 440 that I'm building that will eventually go in it. But I'm still collecting parts so that will be way further down the line. It is surprising how many people dig the slant, especially with the style of the car. They definitely don't expect it to be under the hood.
 
There's something nice about having a simple cruiser. It definitely could use a little more power but its fun to putt around in.

I do have a 440 that I'm building that will eventually go in it. But I'm still collecting parts so that will be way further down the line. It is surprising how many people dig the slant, especially with the style of the car. They definitely don't expect it to be under the hood.
Regardless of what ends up being in it, you've done a fine job on it. It's a way cool ride.
 
We’re you able to pick them up locally to save on shipping costs?

They did ask if I wanted to pick them up but it was easier to just ship them. They are about an hour away so to take time off work and sit in traffic wasn't worth it at the time.
 
I put a catch can on mine this year also. It's amazing to see how much oil would actually go right down the intake manifold prior to having it! I'm running a sealed can instead of having it vented to the atmosphere. If I vent to atmosphere, my engine tends to have some oil leaks. Having the crankcase vent connected to the intake prevents those leaks. I'm sure some oil is still making it down the intake, but the can does catch most of it. Autocrossing fills it the quickest, likely because of the constant high RPM pulls. Under normal conditions, it doesn't get much in it.
If you are still having some leaks, maybe try a sealed can.

Yeah I'm curious to see how much will end up in the can. I was pushing it hard (for a slant haha!) and was surprised how much got out of the old breather. So at least with the catch can it won't end up all over the valve cover. I also added a baffled grommet that seems to be helping as well but we'll see as the miles add up.
 
Not too much has been done to the car lately, just been driving it and working out all the bugs and rattles. Still need to install the subframe connectors and clean up some other odds and ends but so far its been cruisin nicely. Also need to think about adding a heater. When I removed the stock one I thought I would never need it but now that it's a bit colder I'm wishing it was there. Probably will go with an aftermarket unit so I can add a/c down the road.

Here's a few photos I have taken over the last couple months with it.

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Nice duster! Im in san jose, i have a 71
 
Cars been running good lately. Not much has been changed as I've just been driving it but I did add and engine callout decal on the hood. Just wanted something to break up all the green as I ditched the side stripe ideas. Here's a few photos I took recently.

Also with the rain lately I was stuck inside and finally put the future motor together. Just a simple 440 with 440 source cnc ported heads so it should be a fun cruiser one day. Still need a bunch more parts (transmission, front accessories, radiator, etc) so its a ways off but I'm happy with the look so far.

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Beautiful car! I would bet it is a fun cruiser even if it is underpowered. Thinking back about all the cars and motorcycles I've owned, I had the most fun with less horsepower. I had a green 72 Demon /6 auto but I had it sitting low with L60 Polyglass rears, F70 Polyglass on front. I heard comments from people saying they bet it will fly. Ha ha.
My current cruiser 05 Ram V6 6 speed, 4.56 D60 and all suspension plus lots more from SRT10. I love it. I can snap through the gears pretty good at 3k rpm and it feels good and surrounding traffic doesn't even notice.

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Fun Stuff, thanks for sharing.
I am partial to the Bullett Style wheels as well as the slant 6. I bet you would have as much fun with a properly built slant 6 and a 5 speed.
I would also Have to argue that the stock valve cover is a bit more useful for oil control on the breather and PCV valve than the non baffled Ebay unit.

I am biased of course.

Lots of nice work you have done there to a good chassis!
 
Loooove the decal! Looks awesome man! Let me know if there are bay area cruises happenin' ! i'd love to join!

Currently lookin' for a good south bay shop to do an alignment and just tighten things up so I can hang!
 
Beautiful car! I would bet it is a fun cruiser even if it is underpowered. Thinking back about all the cars and motorcycles I've owned, I had the most fun with less horsepower. I had a green 72 Demon /6 auto but I had it sitting low with L60 Polyglass rears, F70 Polyglass on front. I heard comments from people saying they bet it will fly. Ha ha.
My current cruiser 05 Ram V6 6 speed, 4.56 D60 and all suspension plus lots more from SRT10. I love it. I can snap through the gears pretty good at 3k rpm and it feels good and surrounding traffic doesn't even notice.

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Love the look of those Rams. Yeah the slant is the perfect cruiser. It's quiet so you don't get the looks of having a loud car but still has the good looks.
 
Fun Stuff, thanks for sharing.
I am partial to the Bullett Style wheels as well as the slant 6. I bet you would have as much fun with a properly built slant 6 and a 5 speed.
I would also Have to argue that the stock valve cover is a bit more useful for oil control on the breather and PCV valve than the non baffled Ebay unit.

I am biased of course.

Lots of nice work you have done there to a good chassis!

I've toyed around with the idea of a new cam and a little work on the head to improve flow and compression. It'll happen one day as I do like the slant. So if it doesn't go in this car, I'd like to get a 64 Valiant one day so maybe it'll go in that. Definitely needs another gear or two.

I found my old valve cover so once the weather clears up I'll get it painted and back on the car. I do like the look of the chrome one though.
 
@Red Stripe did you have to roll the rear fender lips? Any lowering blocks on the back springs? My 17's with taller profile sidewalls still have a gap to the lip so just curious

Yeah I cut about 1/4" or so off and just rolled it slightly so if the tire ever hit, it wouldn't hit a sharp edge. No lowering blocks but it does have the hotchkis springs which brings it down about 2".
 
Thanks! Tires are 275/35/18 all the way around and the backspace is 6.25" front and 5.25 rear. The fronts might be a little different as the brake kit pushes the track width out another 3/16" and I had to roll the fender lips and do some minor trimming at the corners. The rears took some trimming too, about 1/2" off the lips and I kinda wish I added another 1/8" of backspace as they stick out just a tad further than I thought they would. But I'm still very happy with the fitment.

Do you think another 3mm of positive offset (1/8” more backspacing) would have been enough to avoid rolling the fender lip? And was the trimming at the corners on the top of the fender or at the bottom corner?
 
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Do you think another 3mm of positive offset (1/8” more backspacing) would have been enough to avoid rolling the fender lip? And was the trimming at the corners on the top of the fender or at the bottom corner?

Nope. It needs more than an 1/8" to clear with a 9" wheel unless you run an extreme amount of negative camber or raise it up. Also if you pushed it in it will just rub worse on the other side. With my 9" wheel it just barely touches the inside at full lock so another 1/8" will make it much worse. With an 8" wheel (depending on backspacing) I think you can get away without rolling the lips but anything over a 245 series tire requires modifications.

For the trimming I had to cut out a good chunk at the bottom corners on each side. The rear didn't take much (I cut a little too much) but the front needed to be cut almost flush to the support rod. I had this photo on my phone but I can get a better shot later. I also had to change the splash shield bolt for a little extra clearance.

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Nope. It needs more than an 1/8" to clear with a 9" wheel unless you run an extreme amount of negative camber or raise it up. Also if you pushed it in it will just rub worse on the other side. With my 9" wheel it just barely touches the inside at full lock so another 1/8" will make it much worse. With an 8" wheel (depending on backspacing) I think you can get away without rolling the lips but anything over a 245 series tire requires modifications.

For the trimming I had to cut out a good chunk at the bottom corners on each side. The rear didn't take much (I cut a little too much) but the front needed to be cut almost flush to the support rod. I had this photo on my phone but I can get a better shot later. I also had to change the splash shield bolt for a little extra clearance.

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Thanks. I am working on a brake swap using late model Challenger Scat Pack Brembos and 14.2” rotors that will require an 18” wheel and would love to jump up to a 275/35R18 when I do it.

Funny thing is, my 245/45R17 tire on a 17x8 wheel with a +30mm offset already rubs hard on the front frame rails. I think there is an issue with the steering stops, but haven’t figured it out yet. They clear everywhere else though.

Either way, was planning to run +35mm offset wheels as @72bluNblu seems to have made that work with a minimum of work. Don’t remember him having to roll the fenders, but I know he pushed the lower corner out using the fender brace.

Kind of struggling to find an 18x9 wheel with a +35mm offset that isn’t $400 each. Guess I cross that bridge when I know the Scat Pack brakes will fit.
 
Thanks. I am working on a brake swap using late model Challenger Scat Pack Brembos and 14.2” rotors that will require an 18” wheel and would love to jump up to a 275/35R18 when I do it.

Funny thing is, my 245/45R17 tire on a 17x8 wheel with a +30mm offset already rubs hard on the front frame rails. I think there is an issue with the steering stops, but haven’t figured it out yet. They clear everywhere else though.

Either way, was planning to run +35mm offset wheels as @72bluNblu seems to have made that work with a minimum of work. Don’t remember him having to roll the fenders, but I know he pushed the lower corner out using the fender brace.

Kind of struggling to find an 18x9 wheel with a +35mm offset that isn’t $400 each. Guess I cross that bridge when I know the Scat Pack brakes will fit.

My fenders are rolled and pushed out with the fender roller.

They didn’t start that way, when I had Duster fenders on the car the only mods were to extend the lower fender brace by an about 2”. With the Dart fenders I used the modified lower braces and trimmed the back of the bottom front corner lip back at a 45° angle. But as I’ve been lowering the car I’ve had to do more, where I’m at now needs the fenders rolled for everyday street stuff. If it was only a cruiser it probably wouldn’t matter.
 
Nope. It needs more than an 1/8" to clear with a 9" wheel unless you run an extreme amount of negative camber or raise it up. Also if you pushed it in it will just rub worse on the other side. With my 9" wheel it just barely touches the inside at full lock so another 1/8" will make it much worse. With an 8" wheel (depending on backspacing) I think you can get away without rolling the lips but anything over a 245 series tire requires modifications.

For the trimming I had to cut out a good chunk at the bottom corners on each side. The rear didn't take much (I cut a little too much) but the front needed to be cut almost flush to the support rod. I had this photo on my phone but I can get a better shot later. I also had to change the splash shield bolt for a little extra clearance.

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Just a follow up comment on this.

I think the tire you are running complicates things as not every 275/35R18 tire is the same width. Based on tread pattern, I am guessing you are running BFGoodrich g-Force Rival S 1.5's. If so, the spec on those shows a tread width of 10.1" on a 9.5" rim. That is more tread width than a 295/35R18 Continental ExtremeContact DWS 06 Plus which spec's out at 10" of tread width.

You lose a little of that on a 9" rim, but hard to say how much the tread width is affected while the section width certainly is. And certainly the 295 tire has a bigger section width, but it is the tread width that affect the fitment in this case.

Not suggesting that you could run a 295 on the front (maybe, but not my point), only that the width of the tread has an impact on how well the tire fits on the front of these cars.

I've already bought an 18x9 +35mm open box wheel to mock up, but I've got to say that I kind of wish I had gone for an 18x10 +24mm with 295/35R18 tires and a spare set of fenders to hack. I think a 295 square setup would be just wicked.
 
Then I tackled the paint. A full repaint was out of the question so I wet sanded it first and then went to town with the DA polisher. Paint came out pretty good and brought some of the shine back. The problem is when I got it I painted the rear quarters to fix some bad paint. it looked fine when it was faded but once it was shined up you could really tell the paint doesn’t match. Eventually it will be corrected but for now it will be mismatched.

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Can't see it from the drivers seat. Forward Look>>>
 
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