72 Duster Street / Strip Build

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You cant go wrong with b5 blue.im a little bias though. I just saw your build thread and right out the gate a recognized it. Ive seen some parts you had on craigslist. looks like your doing a good job.
 
Thank you sir, have met quite a few local Illinois Mopar guys in the last 7 months... Goal was to complete it in one year, should be close. Next phase will be an engine build
 
Got the air gap cleaned up. Debating on clearing it now or leaving it as cast... Kinda like being able to clean them up with a brass brush vs having a yellowing clear coat on them... Don't have to worry about a small fuel leak ruining the finish...
 

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Stopped in to see the Duster progress. Body guy has started on the filler work still has a ways to go. He was none too happy with how the metal work guy left the body lines. Next time I will do the metal work myself and save $1500. Couple things I have realized on this build. If you can find a complete roller with good paint and body work with interior for 5-7k its probably a solid buy if you check it over well. I will have 12-13k in this build. If i decide to build a 408 for it down the road it will blow the budget! Once it's done in will post a screenshot of the spreadsheet I have been using to track the costs. Initially thought 1 year and 10k would do it... Should be right on time wise and just a little over budget
:burnout:
 
Now it's time to get some paint samples made and pick a color. B5 has quite a few options... Here is the most complete run down I could find on the web. Originally posted by a member Fury3 on another page. Leaning towards True Blue Poly or Electric Blue - both are metallics. Was thinking non metallic at first, but metallic may be the way to go. Any input?

I can only give you information about the blue that Chrysler Corporation coded as B5. This color code always stood for a Bright Blue, but not always as a metallic, and there were 5 different paint mix formulas and colors for the code "B5"... from 1969 through 1977. The color and code B5 did not exist during the 1968 model year..The "Bright Blue Metallic" (Dodge's name) that year was coded "QQ1", and was named "Electric Blue Metallic" by Plymouth. This color is darker than the later B5 Bright Blue Metallic hues. The color and B5 code originated with the 1969 model year..named "Bright Blue Metallic" by Dodge, "Blue Fire Metallic" by Plymouth. This paint mix formula and names were carried over for the 1970 model year. For the 1971 model year, the mix and hue was changed, as were the names. Dodge now called it "Brite Blue Metallic" (notice the spelling change?), while Plymouth called it "True Blue Metallic". This mix formula was carried over for 1972 and 1973. "B5" went through it's third paint mix formula change in 1974 and was carried over into 1975. It was now named "Lucerne Blue Metallic" by both divisions. The fourth change occurred for the 1976 model year only, and was named "Jamaican Blue Metallic" by all of the corporate divisions. This 1976 hue was the darkest of all of the B5 bright blue's. The fifth and most radical change for "B5" occurred for the 1977 model year. It was a complete departure from any of the previous colors in that it was now a non metallic bright blue, named "French Racing Blue" again available only on Dodge and Plymouth's.
You are going to need to find out which year/paint mix formula they used to paint the vehicle you are trying to replicate.

My only questions is....what is the current "Classic B5 Blue" used by the Dodge Division closest to out of those first four mixes? Hope this helps answer your inquiry? This information was obtained from the factory Dodge and Plymouth Color & Trim Selectors for those years, the Ditzler/PPG color charts/mix formulas, and the "MCW" Automotive Paint Reference Guide.
 

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B5 blue options = Brite Blue Poly or Jamaican Blue...

I am leaning more towards a darker hue - Hyper Blue / 2016 GM Camaro color...
 

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New stainless clips in the cowl seal compliments of Detroit Muscle Technologies. Paint and body is coming along, hope to begin reassembly by the end of the month...
 

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Picked up a grille emblem on eBay. Think I did alright based on what some others offered me.
 

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Should have her back in a couple weeks so I can begin reassembly of all the exterior trim / accessories
 
progress pictures from the shop.
 

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more pictures
 

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Picked up a set of bare 4027596 360 heads, plan on cleaning them up and doing some minor porting work. These won't see the current 318, but will see use with the 360 build along with the airgap intake. I figured picking up a set for $25 with a pitman arm trade wasn't a bad deal. Will need to find valves / retainers / springs to match the cam / seals... Should I cut them for larger valves since I am buying new or keep the 1.88's? Thinking cutting them for 2.02 intake would help with a 360+ cube build in the works, but it will never be a real high rpm screamer 6000 rpm .5xx" hydraulic cam setup.
 
Nice job. Might I suggest PB7? Patriot Blue Clearcoat. On heads, yes, upgrade to 2.02 valves. If they were already drop in ready I might tell you no, but they need gone through anyway. I see you got the rear tire gap down. Looks good, a lot of tire in there.
 
Nice job. Might I suggest PB7? Patriot Blue Clearcoat. On heads, yes, upgrade to 2.02 valves. If they were already drop in ready I might tell you no, but they need gone through anyway. I see you got the rear tire gap down. Looks good, a lot of tire in there.




The wife decided on the Hyper / Kinetic / Vector Blue, PPG 940550, whatever you want to call it. There happened to be a new Camaro show up at the local dealer and she fell in love with the color... Yeah it's a GM color, but I must say it's a pretty sharp looking blue. Tires are a 275/60/15 MT Radial, can't say I am a huge fan of using lower blocks... The set I ordered are angled which helped put the pinion angle right at -2.5 which is where I plan on leaving it. The caltracs should keep it real close to right on when under load. Nice it worked out that way so I didn't have to run the angled shims I ordered from summit. Still on the hunt for a 71-74 360 for this thing, just a matter of time until I get to put a little more engine in it. Plan on pulling the 727 out when it comes back and going through it, who knows what kind of abuse it saw from the previous owner. Best to make it right, bolt in sprag, good clutches and a seal kit a least before beating on it too much even with the runt motor.

Here are a couple shots of the color, little metallic and pearl help it take on a little different character based on the lighting and the ground color it seems.
 

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I would like to thank everyone for taking the time to answer my questions and offer advice so far! I have had a couple members email me about specific items in this build thread so I figured I would go back through all my old tech seeking advice posts and compile them here. Car has made quite the turn around in the last 10 months or so, should be finished with paint in another week and this thing will be hitting the drag strip in May. I will be shocked if it runs anything faster than a 9.0 in the 8th mile with the 318. I didn't want to put all my idiotic questions in this build thread for fear of it getting pulled off track. This is the first Mopar I have ever owned / built so disregard all of dumb questions along the way! Sure there will be more! Once this thing is wrapped up and "complete" I will post a shot of the spreadsheet I have been using to track costs through this process. Amazing how fast you can tie money up in one!

Thanks again, maybe these can help someone else out with their projects.

Firewall wiring questions
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=318841&page=2

Dana 60
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=321644

Front Brakes
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=321990
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=330669

Dash Refinishing
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=319394

Power Steering Column Rebuild
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=319476
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=321753

Fender Work
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=325151

Torsion Bars
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=319396

Autometer Dash cluster
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=320831

Transmission ID
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=321587

Kickdown Linkage
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=323156

Valve cover refurbish
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=326536

Interior color conversion
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=319763

Horn Relay
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=334858

Carpet
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=326863

Current pictures from the shop, paint should be starting to fly pretty soon.
 

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I picked the car up last night, the parts pile will continue to dwindle... I will hopefully be taking some pictures of it complete this weekend. Will be working on it every evening after work.
 
Duster is almost complete, will hang the rear bumper tonight and I am waiting on a poly transmission mount. Guess it's time to get the engine prettied up a bit. Got the transmission cooler installed, lines ran - won't hook it up until after the transmission rebuild is complete. Built the cooler bracket, happy with how it worked out. Will be posting some pictures within the next week or so of it complete
 
Well with the new format I am not sure what pictures survived, but they are all in my photobucket account. Amazing how fast you can wrap 15K up in a car! Can't say I am thrilled with the paint job done by the local shop, love the color but not so much the application of said color. Will not be using them again! It will do for now



 
Car looks good. How come you you dont like they paint job?
Appears to be a rush job through paint, couple clear coat sags on the rear wheel wells, a drip at the end of one front wheel well, couple cloudy spots he didn't get when he cut and buffed it. Lack of coverage on the underside of the rockers - overspray on everything under the car (gas tank / springs / caltracs). Also appears be some color variation around the door jambs and over the wheel wells... Faint striping in the hood color, body shop denies there are any issues "they don't see them". I will never have them paint anything again nor will I send anyone there for insurance work etc... Just a tip to those about to have one painted, draw up a legal contract stipulating expected results in detail before proceeding to have any commercial shop do a job for you. If the shop refuses to comply with the terms go elsewhere. At least then you have some recourse in small claims court if they screw you over.
 
Appears to be a rush job through paint, couple clear coat sags on the rear wheel wells, a drip at the end of one front wheel well, couple cloudy spots he didn't get when he cut and buffed it. Lack of coverage on the underside of the rockers - overspray on everything under the car (gas tank / springs / caltracs). Also appears be some color variation around the door jambs and over the wheel wells... Faint striping in the hood color, body shop denies there are any issues "they don't see them". I will never have them paint anything again nor will I send anyone there for insurance work etc... Just a tip to those about to have one painted, draw up a legal contract stipulating expected results in detail before proceeding to have any commercial shop do a job for you. If the shop refuses to comply with the terms go elsewhere. At least then you have some recourse in small claims court if they screw you over.

Thanks for the reply. I plan on getting a car painted soon so knowing some things to look for help me
 
Wife managed to park the Duster in the winners circle on her second weekend out. Car ran on the number all day and she ran through the novice category. She might get a shot in the pro car before long...
 
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