I have a '72 Scamp with no brakes at all (the e-brake slightly works) I want to drive this thing 15 miles to my garage so I can get it in my garage to fully work on it. Right now I have absolutely no idea how this braking system works. If I were able to just get the front brakes to work will that be good enough to get it home or does this system need all 4 to work? It's a manual brake system with drums on all corners. The plan is to do the front wheel cylinder, rubber lines, shoes, and springs.
'72 Scamp Can I just fix the front brakes to get it home?
- Thread starter dgfalk
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No brakes and you have no idea how to fix it? Then NO. Hire a wrecker and prevent innocent people or yourself from possibly being hurt by your 3500 lb car. Unless you’re leaving something out.
If you can fix the fronts then fix all 4 corners.
If you can fix the fronts then fix all 4 corners.
Professor Fate
Push the button, Max...
Yup. Hire a flatbed or rent a U Haul truck and trailer/tow dolly to get it home. A rental fee is a lot cheaper than adding bodywork to your list of things to do. And tickets, lawsuits and lawyers if things really go south.
junkyardhero
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get a AAA membership or rent a tow dolly from u-haul, or ask a wrecker if they'd pull it for some cash on a deadhead.
if it were around the corner and down the street in the middle of the night or a few miles in the boondocks, that's a different story. this is a safety issue, other people's safety, don't mess around with that.
if it were around the corner and down the street in the middle of the night or a few miles in the boondocks, that's a different story. this is a safety issue, other people's safety, don't mess around with that.
My bad here, I didn't explain myself to well. I've done countless brake jobs on modern cars with power disk brakes, replaced rotors, pads, calipers etc.
I'm just new to manual brakes and drum rotors. What caught my eye is the master cylinder that shares the same resevor. Not sure if having bad rears will effect working fronts.
I'm just new to manual brakes and drum rotors. What caught my eye is the master cylinder that shares the same resevor. Not sure if having bad rears will effect working fronts.
Phreakish
Well-Known Member
What happened when the brakes quit? Were they working and then suddenly not? How long had you been driving? Or was it parked?
I've had hoses go bad and when they got hot they'd either lock the brakes or make them not work. You might get in it and find they suddenly work. Take it easy and get it home in that case.
There's not much to these brake systems. If it's not the hoses, the master or the wheel cylinders are the most likely culprit. Wheel cylinders can be a bear since they tend to be rusted in place and getting the flare nut out often results in damaging things. Also, new parts for old cars tend to be good out of the box about 30% of the time these days, so I'd buy an extra spare of any part or kit you get and expect to finish 50% of the job which might be enough to get home.
Hardest part on the roadside will be bleeding it all. Bringing a helper will go a long way.
This is my first post on this car It's been sitting in a shop for 25+ years and I'm now trying to get it fixed up.
junkyardhero
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to a degree, yes, having bad rears will affect the front. you'll also notice an issue with the pedal pressure.
if you've not done drum brakes before it might be a little intimidating, but mechanically they aren't terribly complicated.
more than likely the rear cylinders are just blowed out. personally i'd just go ahead and repair everything and get it up to snuff, it's not like you're not going to need to anyway.
Have it towed.
Manual brake systems are the same as power systems you just don't have the booster. EVERYTHING else is the same.
If you are competent to do an entire brake job involving replacing mc, lines, hoses, drum brakes you can get it done.
Mymopar.com has factory service manuals free download.
Get the closest to your cars year and make.
there are procedures for everything.
if the car sat for 25 years most likely the fluid has dried and solidified in almost all locations. Lines, hoses, wheel cylinders, mc, the distribution block
Manual brake systems are the same as power systems you just don't have the booster. EVERYTHING else is the same.
If you are competent to do an entire brake job involving replacing mc, lines, hoses, drum brakes you can get it done.
Mymopar.com has factory service manuals free download.
Get the closest to your cars year and make.
there are procedures for everything.
if the car sat for 25 years most likely the fluid has dried and solidified in almost all locations. Lines, hoses, wheel cylinders, mc, the distribution block
Phreakish
Well-Known Member
Gotcha. Your plan to swap the cylinders and lines should do it. I would also have a master handy just in case.
I'd check each part before replacing it since new parts are junk so often now. With pressure on the brake pedal, loosen one of the flare nuts at the master and see if she squirts, if not then start there.
If it does, then it's likely the cylinders. Pull a drum (with no pressure on the pedal!) and you should be able to determine if the cups in the cylinder are rusted or seized in place. Sometimes a few well placed hammer taps can get you "fixed".
But like @junkyardhero said, it may be more prudent to just swap and repair everything anyway if you're planning to keep these brakes in the long term. If your plan includes an upgrade or replacement later, putting the money in a tow will at least get it home without all the busted knuckles and stab wounds from dealing with the springs ;)
Tell us when you plan to drive that time bomb on wheels so none of us are on the road with you.
We’ll then on the lookout for any news reports of a 72 Scamp causing an accident in Montana so we can provide this thread to the insurance company that has to deal with yours as part of this terrible idea.
We’ll then on the lookout for any news reports of a 72 Scamp causing an accident in Montana so we can provide this thread to the insurance company that has to deal with yours as part of this terrible idea.
Only done disc brakes on modern cars? Then I'm still sayin no. Have it towed. This is brakes we're talkin about here. You do something wrong and you or someone else could get hurt. Or worse.
I don't recommend it, but if you are good, you can drive it with e-brake only.
For the record, the thing that some people are calling the "emergency brake" is NOT actually known as that.
It is a Parking Brake in all of the factory literature and even written on the handle. It engages one of the brake shoes on each rear wheel and provides vey little actual braking in panic stops. Yeah, you can get the parking brake to skid but up to that point, it is terribly inadequate.
I know, paying for towing sucks but some of the members here are trying to steer you right. Brake safety really is important. I take risks with a lot of things but good brakes is really important to me. It should be for everyone.
Drum systems do work well when they are functioning correctly. The parts to fix the car shouldn't be too hard to find but they may not be in stock at the auto parts stores, they will have to order some things. I've even had to order a master cylinder for an old Dart....a car that was produced for 14 model years and shared mechanicals with the Valiant models. There were millions of these A bodies built but most are gone.
If I needed a water pump for a 2007 Honda Civic, I could have one at any auto parts store in town.
It is a Parking Brake in all of the factory literature and even written on the handle. It engages one of the brake shoes on each rear wheel and provides vey little actual braking in panic stops. Yeah, you can get the parking brake to skid but up to that point, it is terribly inadequate.
I know, paying for towing sucks but some of the members here are trying to steer you right. Brake safety really is important. I take risks with a lot of things but good brakes is really important to me. It should be for everyone.
Drum systems do work well when they are functioning correctly. The parts to fix the car shouldn't be too hard to find but they may not be in stock at the auto parts stores, they will have to order some things. I've even had to order a master cylinder for an old Dart....a car that was produced for 14 model years and shared mechanicals with the Valiant models. There were millions of these A bodies built but most are gone.
If I needed a water pump for a 2007 Honda Civic, I could have one at any auto parts store in town.
Use your head, don't put your life in danger, or others. Do the smart thing and either put it on a tow truck, or put it on a trailer.
340six
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Unless you have new brake lines, master cylinder, wheel cylinders, shoes, springs, drums and a way to bleed the brakes from being empty like a mighty vac (min) have it towed
And also don't forget you have to also clean - inspect and repack the bearings and replace the seal.
Hello Triple A?
And also don't forget you have to also clean - inspect and repack the bearings and replace the seal.
Hello Triple A?
Super-Cuda
MOPAR .. Move Over, Plymouth Approaching Rapidly!
I would think a tow for 15 miles would cost you 50-100.00 dollars.
Cheap insurance in the big scheme of things.
No one gets hurt and your car arrives in one piece.
You do know that most accidents occur close to home?
Cheap insurance in the big scheme of things.
No one gets hurt and your car arrives in one piece.
You do know that most accidents occur close to home?
Put a tire on the rear of your buddies truck and tow it with a short sling......We used to do it all the time when we were kids.
Professor Fate
Push the button, Max...
Yeah, way back when; for short hops we would use a "poor man's tow bar"- a chain that we'd run through a length of pipe- and limp them home. The pipe would keep the tow vehicle from getting rear ended, all the guy in the rear car had to do was steer.
Wouldn't recommend it, but it was easier than just flat towing.
^^^Hey guys! Don't you watch RoadKill Garage where FriedBurger and DullChic where they are at a boneyard and get a car or truck that has sat there 40 years, running and pour some brake fluid in that old MC and hit the road with BRAKES!!!!! OK sometimes they find another old MC that is only 30 years old and replace one wheel cylinder and off they go!!!! 
Lord Sparky
Well-Known Member
Read Syleng1’s quote.
Okay, that's it. I'M MOVING!!!
Dartswinger70
Well-Known Member
Yeah tow it its not worth it if you wreck it...I mean I used to do crazy shoit too but the law didnt appreciate it then "Flat towing with a chain etc.)
Like the tie back in Mo. when the wife was flat towing my Duster and me with a log chain...she was gong 60 down the hill so she could get back up the hill ( doing what I asked? 70!!!?) I was scare'd!!!!
Let me add there is a red flag in what you wrote.
It reveals someone made some weird modification to the '72 or you didn't open the MC cover.
there's many variations on braking systems. there's no such division as 'modern' or 'old'. Basic principles are the same, mechanically and hydraulics lots of variations. Some minor, some major.
In addition to the service manual, mymopar has many of the Master Technicians Conference booklets and A/V.
Well worth the time spent with both the principles and the specific tips.
A better index for the MTSC is here
Master Technician Service Conference - Chrysler's Training for Mechanics
It reveals someone made some weird modification to the '72 or you didn't open the MC cover.
there's many variations on braking systems. there's no such division as 'modern' or 'old'. Basic principles are the same, mechanically and hydraulics lots of variations. Some minor, some major.
In addition to the service manual, mymopar has many of the Master Technicians Conference booklets and A/V.
Well worth the time spent with both the principles and the specific tips.
A better index for the MTSC is here
Master Technician Service Conference - Chrysler's Training for Mechanics
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