727 having a few issues

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kiss

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Hey guys, I think my rebuilt 727 might have a problem. Here's some info and backstory. Warning, long post, but I want to give as much info as possible. My 71 Dart has a 360 (stock rebuild), and rebuilt 727 (again, stock). I had the 360 balanced during rebuild with the B&M flex plate to account for the externally balanced 360. The 727 was rebuilt (stock rebuild) and I had the transmission builder give me a neutrally balanced converter like off a 318. I believe the converter was used. I personally didn't rebuild the 727 I had a shop do it, same shop that did my 904 on the daily driver and it worked great for 10 years. But still that's not saying anything, anyone can screw up at any given time.

Due to changing jobs all of this was done across country from me and oversaw by a friend. After the engine & transmission were in the car it was broken in for a few hundred miles and then shipped my way. I've had the car a couple months. Apon receiving the car I noticed it was shifting soft, so right away I checked the kickdown. The Lokar kickdown cable basically wasn't doing anything (!!!!) and it was driven for ~200-300 miles like this. The throttle cable also wasn't opening all the way. I fixed that as well so the kickdown lever was all the way forward at WOT.

Bad friend, I know, but it is what it is and I had to move away from work on short notice. Moving on after I adjusted kickdown all the way forward at WOT this made it shift wayyyyyyyy late, excessively late, so I backed it off a little. I adjusted it so it's about 1/4" or so from being all the way forward at WOT. Oh also I have a very light return spring down on the kickdown lever to ensure it pulls off properly. I ensured that the fluid was checked warm and in neutral and at the correct level. The cooler is a m7b and I ensured that's working (it gets warm and so do both of the lines). I drove it like this for several weeks with no issues. The only driving I do is around down with short drives on the freeway.

The problem started a couple days ago and it happened right away in the morning. The car would have this odd shudder/hesitation if it's BARELY moving in R or D. Like if I'm stopped and i'm BARELY taking my foot off the brake it would shudder for a second. I can't stress enough how I have to barely be moving, if I take my foot all the way off the brake it's fine, unless I'm on an incline or something. It's a very small "sweet spot" that would cause this shudder. I tried revving the engine to up the RPM, let foot slowly off the brake, and the shudder still happens so it doesn't seem RPM related. At first I thought it could be the rear end, but it's a sure-grip, and the results aren't consistent that it's a rear-end problem. It feels like transmission. The shudder/hesitation is worse in the morning when it's cold vs when it's warmed up. When it's warm i can just barely feel the shudder when i start to let off the brake. Even though it's not as bad when it's warm it is a consistant problem when starting out. I am trying to describe the feeling, it almost feels like motor/transmission mounts if you will, but mine aren't bad, they're new and I verified this today. If it's cold sometimes the shudder/hesitation is pretty strong when at that sweet spot of just barely moving and will even shake the car.

Then today I noticed another issue. I was driving and I could have sworn I was feeling a few random slips. Like it would slip for a split-second and then be fine, not during any shifts. I remember I was driving around a corner, car was in 2nd, and I felt a slip for a split second. I was later going up a hill, car was in 1st for longer than usual since it was going up a hill, and it slipped for a split-second, then was fine, then a few seconds later it shifted into 2nd.

I got home and right away checked the fluid and tried to smell for burning. The fluid smells fine, isn't low, and is normal color. Later I decided to check the kickdown adjustment and I adjusted it more forward at WOT, so now there's maybe 1/8" of play. I also added half a quart of fluid since it was towards the low-end of acceptable range. These changes didn't make a difference.

Car uses Dex VI fluid if that helps at all. That stuff isn't cheap. No leaks either.

Anyone have any idea what this could be? I know I've heard that if the clutches are burned up the fluid would be bad and I don't see any signs of bad fluid. This transmission has maybe 400 miles on it total. Could this be a bad converter? I have no idea what bad converter symptoms could be.

I know the car was driven for ~200-300 miles with the kickdown not even doing anything, but could that really cause this? I know have a miss-adjusted kickdown is BAD, but I've also read posts of people saying there's wasn't adjusted right for years and finally fixed it, and now it works fine. Then again adjusted somewhat is better than none at all, and mine wasn't doing anything those first few hundred miles..

As usual thanks guys!
 
Wow, your thread got lost in a hurry.
As to the shudder;
When this happens, is the selector in Drive or in manual Low?
You know that brakes themselves will do this,right. Park the car on a decline and put the tranny in neutral, then slip the brakes to let the car roll downhill in a forward direction.See if you can duplicate the shudder.Front drums will do this more often than front discs.

As to the slip in that corner,
are you saying that the rpm went up, while the tranny stayed in whatever gear it was in, and it was not initiating a gearchange?

As to the late shifting
Do you know if the tranny and the rear gear-ratio are a matched set? In other words is the governor stock and the rear ratio the same now as it was when the car was first built? What I'm suggesting is that the governor for say 2.76 gears is, or may not be, the same as the governor for 3.91s. A transplanted high number rear gear will fool the tranny into shifting early. But a transplanted low-number rear gear can cause the opposite, a late upshift.
Also, in a stock VB, the governor pressure is resisted by the line pressure plus the throttle valve pressure. If one or both of these latter two is messed up, then the governor can rule, or it can be over-ruled. It's a delicate balancing act, with even the tire diameters getting into the act.

Does your carb have the proper MOPAR specific throttle arm, with the correctly located KD pin?This is very important for proper TV pressure synchronization.If you don't know, send a pic.
 
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Nice response AJ, well handled! So ya Kiss, I think it would be best to focus on one issue at a time here. AJ brought up a good point about the brakes possibly causing that shudder. I would confirm that issue first then focus on proper TV line adjustment, I personally have a manual valve body and don't know a whole lot about those adjustments, however there are a lot of people on this forum that are well versed in adjusting kick downs or TV line or whatever it's called. Hopefully they will chime in and get u the info u need. Oh, and like AJ said, I'm sure a pic of the linkage at the carb would be helpful to them. Hope u get is figured out!
 
Wow, your thread got lost in a hurry.
As to the shudder;
When this happens, is the selector in Drive or in manual Low?
You know that brakes themselves will do this,right. Park the car on a decline and put the tranny in neutral, then slip the brakes to let the car roll downhill in a forward direction.See if you can duplicate the shudder.Front drums will do this more often than front discs.
The shudder happens in D or R when just barely starting to move. I will try it in manual low. The shudder isn't related to the brakes at all. I have front disc. I tried revving the engine and slowly creeping off the brakes and the shudder still happened at higher RPM, as long as the car is just barely starting to move. Trying to describe the feeling of the shudder here, but when it's cold and first driven it feels like the U joints and motor mounts are shot badly and it vibrates the car, in that sweet spot when just BARELY starting to move. Later when it's warm this shudder is much less felt, it feels more like a hesitation when just barely starting to move. It is 100% related to power, not brakes, and it honestly feels like the transmission is slipping causing that shudder/hesitation, or maybe the torque converter. I'm not aware of symptoms for a torque converter going bad so I can't comment, only what I've read.

I will try manual low and get back to you.

As to the slip in that corner,
are you saying that the rpm went up, while the tranny stayed in whatever gear it was in, and it was not initiating a gearchange?
When I was driving around and the car was nice and warm I was on flat ground. The transmission was in 2nd gear. Suddenly it felt like the transmission slipped a few times. This slip did not occur during or near a gear change, the transmission was in 2nd gear and I wasn't going fast enough for it to shift to 3rd. I could have sworn earlier when I was driving the same thing happened, slipping/hesitation here and there for a second or so while driving.

The other very noticeable slip happened when I was going uphill. I was at a stop light, started driving up a hill, transmission in 1st because I am going uphill and not fast. Suddenly it makes a very noticeable slip for a second or so then keeps going. Again, this slip did not happen near or during a shift change.

As to the late shifting
Do you know if the tranny and the rear gear-ratio are a matched set? In other words is the governor stock and the rear ratio the same now as it was when the car was first built? What I'm suggesting is that the governor for say 2.76 gears is, or may not be, the same as the governor for 3.91s. A transplanted high number rear gear will fool the tranny into shifting early. But a transplanted low-number rear gear can cause the opposite, a late upshift.
Also, in a stock VB, the governor pressure is resisted by the line pressure plus the throttle valve pressure. If one or both of these latter two is messed up, then the governor can rule, or it can be over-ruled. It's a delicate balancing act, with even the tire diameters getting into the act.

Does your carb have the proper MOPAR specific throttle arm, with the correctly located KD pin?This is very important for proper TV pressure synchronization.If you don't know, send a pic.
The late shift isn't/wasn't a problem. I was simple saying that when the kickdown was adjusted all the way forward at WOT it was causing the transmission to shift late. From several threads I've read on here this can happen, start the kickdown adjustment with it all the way forward at WOT and back it off very very little until the desired shift points are achieved. I had to adjust mine so there's only about 1/4" of play from being all the way forward at WOT. So I don't think this is a problem, the problem is the random slipping/shudder/hesitation at cruise (in 1st and 2nd cruise at least, I haven't noticed it slip on the freeway in 3rd yet) and when it just barely starts moving.

I have the Lokar throttle and kickdown setup connected to an Edelbrock carb. I have it hooked up correctly and have used this setup before and it works great.
 
That is most likely from low pressure in the clutchpacks due to wear and old rubber and is not something you can adjust out.
The rubber seals are hardening up and loosing pressure to hold the clutches engaged.
That's what it sounds like to me, being that it's worse in the mornings cold.

Yea, yea, it supposedly only has 400 miles on it. :D


If this is it a bottle of transmission sealer can help temporarily because it softens the rubber back up for awhile, but then goes back to what it was doing not to long after and is worse.

I mention this as a diagnostic to prove the theory and not a fix.
 
.........pull the pan and have a look at the filter.......do u have the Chrysler throttle bracket on the carb, cause yes it does make a difference with setting that dam cable crap........kim.....
 
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