727 lokar kickdown cable installation help needed.

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flathead31coupe

flathead31coupe

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After following the instructions and installing the cable and hooking everything up at the transmission, I noticed that with the Holly wide open, I'm about 1-in short. Is there something I'm missing for the Holly a bracket or something. I know the accelerator cable is not correct but I'm not using that bracket. I have one that's mounted off of the stud from the carburetor. Any help would be appreciated

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Here is how somebody else attempted to do it, but it is still not correct.

They spiced another cable together where the kickdown cable connects to the carb.

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Always best to set them up with the factory mopar linkage.

(Edelbrock/Mopar adapter on the Edelbrock carb application pictured.)

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Whoever had the car before me for some reason where the bell crank goes on the bellhousing has been ground off... So unless I want to find another bell housing and change everything into it, I'll have to go with the cable
 
There is one guy on here that is good at setting up the Lokar Cables, don't know who it is.

Here are some more pictures off YouTube to help with ideas.

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Thanks. I just went out and rechecked. Everything seems to be hooked up correctly. I'm just about an inch short. Not sure what's going on. It's a newer style 600. Holly
 
flathead31coupe said:
After following the instructions and installing the cable and hooking everything up at the transmission, I noticed that with the Holly wide open, I'm about 1-in short. Is there something I'm missing for the Holly a bracket or something. I know the accelerator cable is not correct but I'm not using that bracket. I have one that's mounted off of the stud from the carburetor. Any help would be appreciated




It appears to me that whoever had the car before you must of cut the cable. I am speaking of the inner cable. It is normally much longer in length, as I have installed these units on other cars we have built. You should be able to buy a new inner cable from Lokar. Goof luck with your project!
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flathead31coupe said:
It

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Can you take well lit clear pictures of at the carb and at the trans showing how it all is installed? Try holding your phone further away and zooming as needed, might be clearer. (Usually works for me)

I’ll take a guess that the bracket you have mounted on the carb mounting studs is not compatible with the Holley. It’s positioning the outer cable end too far back. So you either need a longer inner wire or the mount needs to be moved up some, or simply fab something that works (which is what I did when I ran one)

You could also remove the inner wire and then cut the outer cable back enough so it then gives you the extra length inner wire reach you need to connect to the stud. As long as the cable radius as it loops around at the back of the trans isn’t too tight that will work as well. There’s a few ways people might look at the situation:

1) You shouldn’t have to do all this for supposedly a bolt-on high dollar item. Return it get something else.
2) Nothing ever fits bolt-on. It’s junk, return it get something else.
3) Easy fix. Just modify it to make it work and move on.

I’d take the easy fix route,
 
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The cable can be adjusted correctly if you have the proper pull of the cable at the carb match the lever at the trans. Here is what you do, you need the bracket in post # 3 for Edelbrock if you have a Holley they have a bracket also, that should get you close then you measure the amount of movement from idle the wide open throttle and you have to match that at the trans lever, I have seen different length of brackets at trans, sometimes you have to modify a bracket to match the length of the pull.
 
did you cut the cable housing properly? I've installed many lokar set ups and have it on our current dart and it fits and works great.
 
I feel really stupid. That makes sense. I could cut it off about an inch or two and have plenty to work with. Still I'm going to reread the directions
 
Looks like it’s a stainless cable housing. Pull the inner wire, wrap about 3-4 “tight” wraps of electrical tape around the cable housing, use a 32 tooth hacksaw blade to cut. Just like cutting stainless braided hose.
 
I have cut many a cable housing using only a good sharp pr of electrical side cutters (dykes). just make sure that you don't leave the ends flatened, you can also grind it square. Use a tappered scribe to keep it sqaure.
Cut the cable with a good sharp pr of cable cutters, using on fast cut, so the cable does not end up all frayed.
After final assy put "cable ends" on the cable, so it wont fray. You can get theses ends from a bicycle shop. They usually come with bike brake cables.
On my Lokar set up, I replaced the stingy aluminum trans mout bracket with one I fabed out of a piece of 1.5 in angle iron. The alloy bracket kept bending, and it would throw the adjustment off.
The angle iron dosn't bend.
I also put a spring on the trans kick down lever, on the tranny. The spring is not super strong, just enough to keep it in the forward posistion.

ole man Dave

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