727 Torqueflight will not go into reverse

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Tjhoward84

Tjhoward84

1969 Barracuda Convertible
Joined
Mar 19, 2014
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Bothell
The 727 Torqueflight in the '69 Barracuda we just got done with now will not go into reverse. We finished the car (for the most part - these cars are really never done) back in Sept. '14. I've only put 150 miles on the car since then. I last drove it in December and it ran fine - shifted thru the gears and went into reverse. I went to take it out last weekend and it would not engage reverse. It goes into drive no problem.

Anyone have any thoughts on this issue?

Is it OK to put it in neutral and roll it out of the garage and then drive it normally?
 
drop pan and look for the rear servo .....either the servo popped out...or cocked in the bore...or the rear band has come loose or the lug on the band broke......
 
I agree with 70
As to driving it; Highly not recommended except possibly to move it around the shop.Depending on which of those listed possibilities is issue, more damage could ensue. For instance; if the band is not anchored, the spinning drum could pick it up and try to spin it around. If the lug is still on it, it could jam up in the housing, wedge in there and break out the case.
I guess there is another possibility. Synchronization of trans lever with the shifter. However since you say Drive is ok, and you didnt mention a starter cranking issue, its unlikely to be that.
Drop the pan, the problem should be obvious.Could be as simple as the strut is laying in the pan.That would likely be a faulty install.
 
AJ/FormS said:
I agree with 70
As to driving it; Highly not recommended except possibly to move it around the shop.Depending on which of those listed possibilities is issue, more damage could ensue. For instance; if the band is not anchored, the spinning drum could pick it up and try to spin it around. If the lug is still on it, it could jam up in the housing, wedge in there and break out the case.
I guess there is another possibility. Synchronization of trans lever with the shifter. However since you say Drive is ok, and you didnt mention a starter cranking issue, its unlikely to be that.
Drop the pan, the problem should be obvious.Could be as simple as the strut is laying in the pan.That would likely be a faulty install.
Click to expand...


After 150 miles it could even be the locknut on the band adjuster stud was never tightened.
Sure does sound like a rear band problem, and as mentioned it should be fairly obvious.
 
Do you have engine breaking in manual low? (1st gear) if not something is wrong with the low reverse band/servo/strut. Ive seen them break just because its Tuesday man! no warning @ all!
 
Thanks everyone for the info. I know nothing about automatic transmissions and really have no way to get the pan off and have a look. I sold the car lift we used during the building of the car. I am trailering the car to a local shop tomorrow (Tuesday, Feb. 24th) that seems very knowable about these transmissions. I can't wait for them to tell me what's wrong. They will also be fixing the reverse lights - they stay on even when in drive and also recalabrating the speedo to compensate for the larger tires my buddy put on the car.

I'll report back soon.
 
The car is now at the transmission shop. The first thing the shop manager did was to put the car in drive and hold the brake to figure out the stall converter speed. He noticed the stall converter was set at 1,400 rpm. This is a mismatch for the Magnum 360 crate engine with the high lift & duration cam. Now, I'm looking at a new 2,500-3,000 rpm torque converter. I'm also thinking of replacing the cam with a more mild street version and also changing from the single plane manifold to a dual plane version.

More to come tomorrow when I hear back from the shop on the damage to the trans.
 
.........with ur bu lights staying on in drive u will need them to put the right year linkage inside the pan its called the rooster comb...............kim..........
 
OK, the issue with the transmission was the rear servo was destroyed and it took out the rear band. The issue with the reverse lights staying on is the mismatch with the valve body and the neutral switch. We are putting in a new valve body. Lastly, the stall converter speed in the torque converter is set at 1,400 rpm. Unfortunately, this is a complete mismatch with the engine/cam setup. Now, we need a new custom 3,200-3,500 rpm torque converter. Instead of doing that, we are going to change the high lift cam and single plane intake manifold with a new Magnum Performance milder cam and an Edelbrock RPM (7577) intake. This should make the car much easier to drive around town.
 
That sucks about the band because everything else can be done with the trans in the car, and without tearing it down.
Good that it all got figured out though.
 
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