My '73 Power Wagon has no spark, I had it running and it stalled out and lost spark. I have replaced everything under the hood with good known parts. I have no power on either side of the coil, no power on any of the ECM pins, and no power to the ballast resistor. I do have power to my starter relay and the large wire on the alternator. I just ran a jumper wire from the + battery to + coil. Now I have spark, and my test light shows power to both sides of the ballast resistor, both sides of the coil, and 3 pins on the ECM plug. What could possible be wrong, this ones got me stumped!
'73 318 No Spark!!!
- Thread starter R72Demon
- Start date
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TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
Or it's just the fusible link.
I think test light will show power to all those places normally, but it's the amount that matters. (resistance)
If it has a fusible link, I'd bet thats it.
It could still be the ignition switch though.
And a short would cause the guage to peg.
(which could have blown the link)
Just thinking out loud so to speak.
I think test light will show power to all those places normally, but it's the amount that matters. (resistance)
If it has a fusible link, I'd bet thats it.
It could still be the ignition switch though.
And a short would cause the guage to peg.
(which could have blown the link)
Just thinking out loud so to speak.
BillGrissom
Well-Known Member
As mentioned, you need to trace the path of +12 V thru the bulkhead connector, to the key switch and any other cabin components (fuse box) and back out the bulkhead to the ballast resistor. The bulkhead connectors often melt if neglected corrosion. You can find wiring diagrams here.
With the temp gauge needle only ( and not the fuel gauge also ) that leads me to the white harness connector at rear of right valve cover.
Also if there is a electric choke assist mounted with one of the coil mounting bolts ( white ceramic with 2 wires attached ) , disconnect it. Its very likely one of your electrical faults even before the car died.
Ok, fuseable link just checked good. I just checked my ignition switch wiring and with the key on, my test light shows power to the light blue, red, and black wires. Also I currently have my amp gauge by-passed.
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