'73 Duster-- 6.4 Hemi, Megasquirt, Tremec 5 Speed

-
The decklid is finished and mounted. Waiting on the weatherstrip for it now.
Been to busy working to make any real progress.
20121213_090636.jpg
 
this thing looks awesome! wish i had your body skills. i have two questions? why stick with the early 2005 style coils where you have to use the short cheater wires, instead of the dual coil on plugs. and what kind of K member is this? Thanks in advance for the response, and again love the project!
 
johnnymac2k6 said:
this thing looks awesome! wish i had your body skills. i have two questions? why stick with the early 2005 style coils where you have to use the short cheater wires, instead of the dual coil on plugs. and what kind of K member is this? Thanks in advance for the response, and again love the project!
Click to expand...

The body work skills mostly weren't mine, but thanks either way.
I'm using the earlier style coils because I had them already. I don't know of any disadvantage to using them.
The k frame is by Control Freaks.
Jon
 
Me no unnnerstan'...............why is there a big-*** hole in the bell like that, and no support for the nose of the starter?
 
awesome work, ill be watching this one. its very inspiring to see everyone's builds
 
fenderman33 said:
I tore the whole car apart and stripped the exterior with a paint eater disc. That's when my "rust free" car started looking ugly. Obviously, it's not as bad as what you guys up north have to deal with, but it's not what I thought I was getting into. It needed all the floor pans, both trunk extensions, a tail panel, both of the sail panels were rusted through where the vinyl top was and also in the lowers behind the wheel, patch the rocker on the right side, rust through and thin spots on the roof from the vinyl top, hole under the battery tray, etc.
While I was at it I found a good deal on a '72 Dart front end, and a hood from another member here.
I had the jambs and underhood sand blasted by a buddy and primed with SPI epoxy.
So far the only work that I haven't done myself is the patch on the sail panel.
-Jon
100_0823.jpg

100_2179.jpg

100_2222.jpg

100_2337.jpg

100_2339.jpg

100_2350.jpg

100_2387.jpg
Click to expand...
just wondering, how did you fix the curve of the quarter panel to match the doors at the top? I see in the one pic u have the same problem as I do. just wondering if u have ideas you could share about how to fix it.
 
To get the door gap right I had to make a vertical cut on the quarter then hammer the front flange to close up the gap then weld it all back it.
Make sense?
- Jon
 
67Dart273 said:
Me no unnnerstan'...............why is there a big-*** hole in the bell like that, and no support for the nose of the starter?
Click to expand...

dont meen to butt in here,,,but,,, the quick time bell housings and scatter shields never came with a starter cover,,later down the road they were offered as an option,,still no starter nose support,,, the cover has to be welded after you recieve it,,,the only down fall to the quick time design,,,now owned by lake wood
 
Looks very good...........it's a shame work has to get in the way of a project but bills got to be paid.
 
If you're looking for the perfect spot to mount your prop. valve with a Hemi and TTI headers this isn't it:


I had to move it back a couple of inches to clear the header.



I did get the body set down on the engine a few weeks ago.



 
Can you tell me the specific brand and part no of that prop valve/ distro block?
 
Looks like winter is finally over and I'll get some time to work on the car again. I've got the steering linkage finished. Working on the dash next.
2014-04-03203534.jpg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top